Thumper

FYI 1. When the spark plug gets too hot it can adjust its gap by itself. If this happens get a colder plug. 2. What Thumper says is always right:twisted:

Sounds like you are blowing out the spark. Especially the part where you can run lower boost and not higher. Tighten the gap to something very small.

Yepo it is a stock boost gauge sender. Thanks for your help. And it in no way effects the stock ecu. So when you get an aftermarket gauge remove it:-D

Its labeled boost solenoid and has a vacuum hose connected to it. With no vacuum/boost it sends out 2.21 volts. At maxium lip suckage it gets 2.1 volts at maxium lip blowage it gets 2.34 volts. So it definetly is sending different volts to the ecu. My question is does the ecu actually use this? and what is normal volts for this sensor? Thanks

I'm working on my friends 280zx turbo 82'. I remember reading way back then about the boost reference device over by the ignition coil. If my memory serves me correctly it supposedly tells the ecu it is running more boost. My question is does anybody know what this thing does? and do you know how to test it to see if it is good or bad? I game my factory manual to my friend and its now lost so no go there. Thanks

I dynoed tuned my ghetto beast (crappy 280zx turbo) on the dyno with adjusting the afm. But it only ran great at full throttle and it changed afrs every day. Get a standalone and you will be much happier. Megasquirt with all extra parts can be done for $400.

The regulator is fuctioning correctly. It moves up 7psi when the vacuum is diconnected while engine is running. And it goes up 1psi for every 1 psi of boost. And it holds a vacuum when I put a vacuum pump on. I'm going to try and get some more stock injectors and i'll take the fuel rail off and see the spray pattern of the ones i have currently.

I was thinking the same thing but if the injectors were clogged somehow wouldn't the car run lean all the time? or just at high rpms?

I ran 13 psi on my ghetto beast (stock 280zx) with just a intercooler upgrade and only ran out of fuel at 13psi so I know the stock injectors are suppose to handle more power than 9psi can put out.

I'm working on my friends 280zx turbo automatic. We are having the problem at high rpms above 4500rpm it will slowly lean the micture out. It will start at 11.5:1 and work its way up to 13.5:1 by 5700rpms. We put a new fuel pump, filter, and have varied no fuel pressure drop via fuel pressure gauge so its not a fuel supply problem. We put a new afm on and I loosened the spring inside of it so that is was running 9:1afr at 4000rpms and it still went to 13.5 by 5700rpms so its not the afm. The only thing I can think is the problem is the injectors are somehow clogged or the ecu has a problem. The car is bone stock except intake and no exhaust. It has a greddy ebc that is turned off but it still raised the boost to 9psi instead of the stock 6psi. If we turn up the boost the problem happens earlier in the rpm range due to we are moving more air earlier. When the car is cruising or building boost the afr's seem to be ok so it only seems to be a problem at high rpms. What do you guys think is causing the car to run out of fuel? Thanks

Click, click, click is no good. Read up on the safety pop off valve. It could be that. Or something totally different. 99.9% sure someone has had your problem before so you should be able to find it.

I was running tokico illumina's and springs and had a fair amount of body roll. When I upgraded the sway-bars it drastically reduced. So unless your struts are bad I would first upgrade the sway bars. Makes a huge difference.

Happy B-day

Wow I wish the office who just gave me a ticket would have made this many mistakes. Oh well still funny. http://spikedhumor.com/article.aspx?id=2555

LOL yeah the wear and tear on the engine. You have to consider that in cost oh and your time. Time is money and you spend less time driving more time doing other things. But then you have to factor in.... oh NM

Since the gas has go up in my area lately and I just did a 1600 mile trip its got me thinking what is the best speed to go for best gas mileage. I know efficiency will go up higher in rpms and in speed, but at some point load becomes to high. But even if its 150% more efficient at 2000rpms then at 1000rpms you are still squirting fuel 200% more of the time. But then again you are going faster at 2000rpms vs 1000rpms so hmm. Well I found an article explaining alittle bit of it. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question477.htm So what I gathered is a 280z will be most efficient at about 50mph due to its poor aero, but its light weight. While lets say my new car a Z4 Should be efficient at 60 due to is much better aero, but slightly heavier. Then a Hummer will be best at 40 because of heavy weight, and poor aero drag. So for every mph we go over 50-60mph we are getting worse gas mileage. I'm still not at the point where i'm going to change my driving habits or buy a hybrid but I might go 75-80mph instead of 80-90mph to get my extra 2mpg or more.

Phil, You should be able to get an extra 10hp from leaning out the gas on the big-end but at the same time get the lean spot 11.8:1 taken car of as well. Its right at your torque peak so that makes since. Then you will be able to add timing. Remeber the main thing extra fuel does is slow the combustion down alittle so its just like you retarded timing. It also cools off the combustion alittle bit but its returns are reduced at a certain point. So get the a/f's line steady and you should be able to pick up a good 10hp. Also don't know if you know this but you can add timing after torque peak to pick up top-end power as well. Too give you an idea at DNI getting Gabes a/f's from lows 11's to high 11's and adding 4 degrees of timing he picked up 3-4?mph in his traps. Which is about 15hp.