Thumper
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Posts posted by Thumper
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Either he thinks he is knowledgable or you heard him wrong. I can se a Buick Stage 2 engine (note I did not say GN engine) having a 5600 stall but I would expect him to be shifting at 8000 since 5600 is out of the peak power band. A stage 2 engine needing a 5600 stall is probably making north of 1000hp. Now, a GN engine with a 3600 stall and shifting around 5600 is dead-on.
Hard to say what stall you need for the GTO, but it is not 5600. I would say more like 3000 but this is where you call the manufacturer and tell them details of the car and purpose and they help determine the correct stall. Keep in mind that a converter manufacturer should allow 1 or 2 free restalls in the event it is not right the first time. See what guys on the GTO forums with similar setups says works.
Dont let a turbo guy recommend a converter for an N/A. 2 completely different worlds.
Thanks for info. My gto is a 6sp so i'm not looking for a stall for my car but trying to help out my friend with his gn motor. It sounds like he has too high of a stall on his car but before I tell him its too big I would like to know for a fact. Thanks
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Ok i'm a newb when it comes to stall's. My friend has a buick grand national with lots of work done to it. Its almost a full stage 2 engine with a medium/large turbo. I'm not looking for an exact stall he should run but I was wondering does a 5600rpm stall sound to high? From what i've read you want the stall to be slightly lower than his tq peak? I seriously doubt his tq peak is that high but not sure.
Also to make sure I know what a stall is, his car launches at 5500rpms and stays there roughly (up and down 200rpms when it shifts) the whole trip down the 1/4. This doesn't sound right to me but i'm no expert so before I talk to him I would like some info so I sound smart. Key word sound... Thanks
P.S. He is very knowledgeable into cars so I doubt he made this obvious of a mistake so please look at all the angles and ask all the questions you want. Thanks for your time.
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I think the head is still lifting. Thats the only way I know of that the coolant can become that pressureized (sp)
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I just hooked up a dry shot to my GTO but was curious how much bottle pressure effects a dry shot. I know a wet shot its huge because less nitrous or more nitrous effects afr's. But since a dry shot uses the maf to adjust I think that the only thing bottle pressure effects is the amount of nitrous it feeds thus the power of the shot.
Since its cold out and I don't have a bottle heater "yet", I'm going to run a .003 larger fitting to compensate for the 650-750psi bottle. Good idea? Thanks
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The voltage display through megatune won't work because megasquirt stops responding to the laptop, nothing shows up at all. There are dips below 10v on the portions of the log that do show up, but that's because the battery is almost dead from cranking after every change to test it.
Also, keep in mind that this started happening while the engine was running, and got so bad the engine quit.
Could be a bad alternator. Charge up the battery fully or try a known good battery. This happened to me once.
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Have you checked your battery? If your battery is weak then when you crank it the volts drop low enough that megasquirt turns off. Could also be your relay going bad and losing volts at that. Put the voltage display on your labtop and see if they drop below 10v? while cranking.
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One thing it might be is if your Intake temp sensor, or your coolant temp sender is broken or worn and they are reading your car to be cooler than it is, your ecu will inject more fuel. And when its hot out it is too much fuel and your car runs bad. But when it gets cold out and more air (because its denser) gets into your engine the afr's are closer to where they should be you car runs better. Just one theory. Another one is...
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It depends on what boost you are running. If you are running stock boost then spend the $800 that a properly setup nitrous kit will run yeah on turbo upgrades and you will get 100hp all the time.
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John, what about a bonneville flats speed car. Would you stick with the street setup or have different settings? Thanks
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So what do you think about the camber settings? Should I add negative camber to the front since the rear has so much? Thanks
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I just found my actual alignment settings and updated the numbers. Also 1/8" equals .010". So I have perfect on front and ever slightly too much on the rear. But on the rear its recommend to be at .020" so I think i'm good there also.
Now that i'm looking at the numbers I worried about the little negative camber. I wonder if lets say -.4 or -.5 would be better. Any thoughts? Thanks
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I too at first thought that 0 toe would be best but I then thought that in order to counter any changes in the road it would be best if the tires were fighting each other just alittle to keep tension on the suspension.?
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I will be replacing the front tires soon on my GTO and will get the car realigned when I do. I am looking to get the most high speed stability as possible since this car is too heavy to handle GREAT and I mostly use the car at a drag track/highway. Right now I have .10" toe front, -0.1 camber, and 8.5 of caster in front. .14" toe rear, -1.2" camber rear(not adjustable). Would you change anything or keep it the same?
I just got home and found the actual alignment settings.
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Carfan, looks like you are in deep thought. Were you contemplating what engine to put in your z?
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Took this a couple of minutes ago. Don't feel too special its for an old school acquaintance who is stalking me/tracked me down:icon31:
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It looks like at that angle you will have a problem with intercooler piping it hitting your frame rails. You will need to either clock it up 2-3" or further down. Looking good I love holset l28's.
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Damn I would love to go but don't think a 1300 mile trip would be worth it.
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LOL OOOOOPPPPSSSS I forgot about that part of the video. Umm.. maybe I should edit that out. Funny thing is I wasn't speeding he pulled me over for no front license plate and I got to find out the hard way I had a speeding ticket from 5yrs earlier.
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watching these videos are great. It kinda shows what mine looks like. I keep telling people its fast, but they don't listen?
Hey Phil what program do you use to edit video. I'm looking to make a compilation of my z with sound. Thanks
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dude, nice car!! you need another one!
Yes, yes I do. Only problem is I would have to decide road course or drag racing for the next build. No more strandling the fence. So basically auto vs manual. I love manual:icon54:
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I was bored so I decided to make myself a youtube page so I uploaded lots of my 260z videos and a few of my gto. (more to come)
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I ran that holset on my car for awhile and 3" is plenty. Remember when you buy your holset get the v-band clamp and 45 elbow with it. Good luck
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Don't need anything but thanks for the generosity.
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Lets see:
91' sentra = Sleeper (sleeper)
86' mrs = Misty (mister two/misty)
90' Mustang = Stangy (....)
92' Jetta = Helga (german bitch i knew)
00' miata = Little Red Riding Hood (it was little, red, and it had a hood)
280zxt = Ghetto Beast (it was ghetto)
260z turbo = Whistler (it whistled)
05' Gto = BFG (Big F'ing Goat 3700lbs)
5600rpm stall?
in Drivetrain
Posted
I call it a stage 1.5 it is a 4-bolt just like a stage 2 but all this and that. Basically its a built up stage 1.
Well sunday night he blew a headgasket and did some damage because of a faulty injector. He is tired of things going wrong on the car so he might be parting it out.
The stall was suppose to be a 3500-3600 but he says but it is way too loose. He bought it used from someone else something he will never do again. Running only 17lbs of boost and the bad injector he got a 12.0 @ 109mph before the headgasket blew. Funny thing is his knock sensor wasn't going crazy just normal valvetrain noise... Thanks