Jump to content
HybridZ

Thumper

Members
  • Posts

    1080
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Thumper

  1. Sorry about that.

     

    First need to figure out just what engine is in that GN. If he has a Stage 2 then he either paid BIG buck$ for ot and the install or he paid big buck$ for the car if it was already installed. You do not mistake a Stage 2 with a big turbo since you would have to pull 2 spark plugs to prevent it from making 600hp :D.

     

    Sounds like a standard GN engine but a 5600 stall is unbelivable or he has a busted converter. Have him drive the car at about 15mph then floor it and whatever the RPM flashes up to is close to the stall. If it does go way up there, I would pull it out.

     

    I call it a stage 1.5 it is a 4-bolt just like a stage 2 but all this and that. Basically its a built up stage 1.

     

    Well sunday night he blew a headgasket and did some damage because of a faulty injector. He is tired of things going wrong on the car so he might be parting it out.

     

    The stall was suppose to be a 3500-3600 but he says but it is way too loose. He bought it used from someone else something he will never do again. Running only 17lbs of boost and the bad injector he got a 12.0 @ 109mph before the headgasket blew. Funny thing is his knock sensor wasn't going crazy just normal valvetrain noise... Thanks

  2. Either he thinks he is knowledgable :D or you heard him wrong. I can se a Buick Stage 2 engine (note I did not say GN engine) having a 5600 stall but I would expect him to be shifting at 8000 since 5600 is out of the peak power band. A stage 2 engine needing a 5600 stall is probably making north of 1000hp. Now, a GN engine with a 3600 stall and shifting around 5600 is dead-on.

     

    Hard to say what stall you need for the GTO, but it is not 5600. I would say more like 3000 but this is where you call the manufacturer and tell them details of the car and purpose and they help determine the correct stall. Keep in mind that a converter manufacturer should allow 1 or 2 free restalls in the event it is not right the first time. See what guys on the GTO forums with similar setups says works.

     

    Dont let a turbo guy recommend a converter for an N/A. 2 completely different worlds.

     

    Thanks for info. My gto is a 6sp so i'm not looking for a stall for my car but trying to help out my friend with his gn motor. It sounds like he has too high of a stall on his car but before I tell him its too big I would like to know for a fact. Thanks

  3. Ok i'm a newb when it comes to stall's. My friend has a buick grand national with lots of work done to it. Its almost a full stage 2 engine with a medium/large turbo. I'm not looking for an exact stall he should run but I was wondering does a 5600rpm stall sound to high? From what i've read you want the stall to be slightly lower than his tq peak? I seriously doubt his tq peak is that high but not sure.

     

    Also to make sure I know what a stall is, his car launches at 5500rpms and stays there roughly (up and down 200rpms when it shifts) the whole trip down the 1/4. This doesn't sound right to me but i'm no expert so before I talk to him I would like some info so I sound smart. Key word sound... Thanks

     

    P.S. He is very knowledgeable into cars so I doubt he made this obvious of a mistake so please look at all the angles and ask all the questions you want. Thanks for your time.

  4. I just hooked up a dry shot to my GTO but was curious how much bottle pressure effects a dry shot. I know a wet shot its huge because less nitrous or more nitrous effects afr's. But since a dry shot uses the maf to adjust I think that the only thing bottle pressure effects is the amount of nitrous it feeds thus the power of the shot.

     

    Since its cold out and I don't have a bottle heater "yet", I'm going to run a .003 larger fitting to compensate for the 650-750psi bottle. Good idea? Thanks

  5. The voltage display through megatune won't work because megasquirt stops responding to the laptop, nothing shows up at all. There are dips below 10v on the portions of the log that do show up, but that's because the battery is almost dead from cranking after every change to test it.

     

    Also, keep in mind that this started happening while the engine was running, and got so bad the engine quit.

     

    Could be a bad alternator. Charge up the battery fully or try a known good battery. This happened to me once.

  6. One thing it might be is if your Intake temp sensor, or your coolant temp sender is broken or worn and they are reading your car to be cooler than it is, your ecu will inject more fuel. And when its hot out it is too much fuel and your car runs bad. But when it gets cold out and more air (because its denser) gets into your engine the afr's are closer to where they should be you car runs better. Just one theory. Another one is...

  7. I will be replacing the front tires soon on my GTO and will get the car realigned when I do. I am looking to get the most high speed stability as possible since this car is too heavy to handle GREAT and I mostly use the car at a drag track/highway. Right now I have .10" toe front, -0.1 camber, and 8.5 of caster in front. .14" toe rear, -1.2" camber rear(not adjustable). Would you change anything or keep it the same?

     

    I just got home and found the actual alignment settings.

  8. Lets see:

     

    91' sentra = Sleeper (sleeper)

     

    86' mrs = Misty (mister two/misty)

     

    90' Mustang = Stangy (....)

     

    92' Jetta = Helga (german bitch i knew)

     

    00' miata = Little Red Riding Hood (it was little, red, and it had a hood)

     

    280zxt = Ghetto Beast (it was ghetto)

     

    260z turbo = Whistler (it whistled)

     

    05' Gto = BFG (Big F'ing Goat 3700lbs)

×
×
  • Create New...