ddog437

Sounds like you got a good deal, I got my 280z out of a barn for 800 dollars and it has been my daily driver ever since, it had some rust but the interior is clean and has 64k original miles. Offer him 1000 bucks and take that ****!

This was actually the first thing I did, noticed a nice green color and now it actually feels a bit loose...hmm thanks man, ill check that out right away.

So you had a similar problem to mine? Well I just got my spark plugs replaced about a month ago to high end NKG plugs. thanks

oh sorry, Its a 1978 280z 5 speed.

After spending some money putting back together my intake, I came across a new problem. Pretty sure the problem is electrical, something to do with either the air auxiliary regulator, the themrotime switch, the cold start valve, the air flow sensor, or any of the wires connecting each to the ECU. My car will barely not start when its cold, takes about 4-5 cranks with my foot on the gas the whole time to get it to start. whens its started, it idles very inconsistently, starts out around 800, then drops down to 400 and pops up to 500 and back down, then will come up to 1000-1100 for a moment before starting that cycle over. If i try to push in the gas at this point the car will usually start to die, and pops from the intake by back firing. itll struggle to go up in rpms for a few seconds then shoot up to where it should be. if i let off the gas it just goes back down to its shitty idling. once the car warms up for 4-5 minutes, its drivable and idles fine, yet still periodically backfires when i take off in first or down shift to a low gear and gas it. (only when around 1500-2000 rpms) Just asking if anyone has a hint as to what kind of tool I can use to determine if there is continuity in the lines going to the ECU, when/what to hook it up to and look for. I have yet to replace all the wires, I am in college and don't have much monies. thanks yall!

actually used to have the factory service manual, it got lost in the move. thanks!

hey grumpy, searched the forum and net for this but couldnt find it. Wondering if you know the torque specs for the intake/exhaust manifold on the 1978 280z? I dont wanna squash me gasket! thanks.

I am looking for a 280z hood that is in good, staight condition. The hood on the car currently was backed into making a small dent in the front. It still closes but looks bad, if anyone wants to sell or trade let me know. I live in central/northern california. thanks!

seems we have the same problem, my car is a 78 what is yours? im pretty sure you are right about this, hopefully i can put in my exhuast manifold this coming weekend and find out for sure, thanks!

I have owned my 78 280z for just over two years now, it passes smog and runs well. Before I bought the car, the previous owner (who I have found out to be somewhat of a liar), told me the car had a mild cam instead of the stock cam, car passed smog in California anyway, (why I think its stock). Recently I had a loud ticking noise from my car, and a friend mechanic took a look for me, told me it was my exhaust manifold, and proceeded to take a look at my valves. they were too loose according to factory specs, so he changed the valvelash to 10 and 12 I believe (whatever is factory stock). Yet after I left his place my car started backfiring! My car now backfires at 2600-2900 rpms but only when I let out the gas and I am in gear. I checked the cam, it says e35 on it. Just wondering if anyone knows if this is stock or if this is aftermarket, I think the backfiring is due to my exhaust leak at the manifold, yet I am not sure because I had the leak before the valvelash was adjusted. thanks.

thanks everyone, messages sent. still looking for a cheap hood if available

moved to L6 engine section

Have you checked for any exhaust leaks are the seal of the manifold? This can lead to a very loud ticking noise that I have encountered, sounds more harsh then a typical exhaust leak.

csorgenf: My car is 1978, not sure if it makes a difference, although my car is fuel injected and I am pretty sure the 75's models had carbs, although I am not the most knowledgeable so if I am wrong correct me. theguppies: Glad to hear you live in San Jose, I reside in Santa Cruz, so I could possibly come look at the manifold, would it fit with my car? As I said, I am not the most knowledgeable, I am just looking for a manifold becuase they are cheap and I just need a quick fix for the time being. How would I be able to tell if my car can use a n42 or n47 manifold?

Hello all, I recently got a bad exhaust leak at the seam of my manifold, it was abused by the previous owner and has rust and high heat epoxy on it (hes an idiot). So I am looking for a used exhaust manifold, my car is a 5 speed, passes smog, and I need to keep it passing smog. If anyone has one, or knows where I can get one online (not headers), then I would greatly appreciate it, thanks!