240zrb

I had the same problem, but I just cut back the number 2 section with the bend. That way I was left with a slightly shorter intake pipe, and more room for AFM and filter. Was a b*tch to get the AFM into the "wavy" section of the intake pipe tho...

Earlier thread about this.... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/63522-has-anyone-used-or-seen-this-airdam-used/page__p__590894__fromsearch__1#entry590894

Thanx for all comments:-) Engine have no major mods, just 3" exhaust (strait to Apexi N1 exit), apexi cone filter, "freddy" intake manifoil, and a front mount ic. Other than bodywork there's: Wilwood brakes in front, Mustang Cobra brakes in the rear. R200 diff with Nismo 2 way clsd centre Custom Braids (3 piece) 8x17 and 10x17 with p-zeros (225/45-17 and 265/40-17) Arizona "heavy duty" springs Tockico Illumina shocks ++++

A short run for those who requested (and anyone else who might be interested)

Flares are MSA Street flares, slightly modifyed. I have not proper plates on the car yet, but next time I get (test / temporary) plates I'll be sure to get you guys some driving videos:-)

After spending years of my life and lots of my money, I have finally been driving this car. And it really MOVES:-) (sorry, no video of driving action yet) Have a couple of pictures in my album 240zrb, and here's a video for those interested:-) Just wanted to share:-)

-73 240z RB25DET Midnight purple Just took it out to take a picture. High in the front, but I hope it gets a bit lower... New springs and just had the front lifted while working under it, so I think it might be a bit lower after driving it a bit:-)

Yes, it's the stock 2 step boost solenoid. It regulates the boost, 5 psi up to 4500rpm. Then bleeds of air, allowing the boost to be raised to 7psi on rpms above 4500... Remove it and you'll be runnin constant 5 psi (if you don't get a boost controller that is), or if you connect a permanent ground to it, then you'll run permanent 7psi (no longer 2 step). Linked is a nice write up about this thing:-) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/HOWTO-RB25DET-High-Boost-t42895.html

Searched thru several threads regarding autometer (and other makes) gauges, and decided I "need" indicators... I had some 5mm led's laying around, so it was just about getting the balls to start drilling into the gauge faces... The led's were very bright, and I worried about how they would affect you when driving in the dark. And I read in another thread about light getting thru the led's from the gauge bulbs. My solution was putting some heatshrinking tube over most of the led, just leaving a very small portion to put thru the gauge face. Then I put 4-5 layers of tint over the tip of the led's, worked great and redused the blinding brightness:-) And the led's now appear black, and not clear glass:-) So now I have 2 green turn indicators (bottom) and a blue high beam indicator (top) in the speedo. In the tach I put a single red led at the bottom for parking brake, and 3 red at the top for check engine.

I doing an RB25DET swap in my -73 and optioned for Autometer speedo, tach and boost gauges. I live in Norway so I wanted an KM/H speedo, and the only autometer one i could find was the Ultra lite with aluminum/silver face. So I bought 3 gauges in the ultra lite series. Now I wanted to keep the amp/fuel and temp/oil gauges (swaped clock for boost gauge), AND I wanted them to look (at least a bit) simular to the speedo/tach/boost. So I started working.... Stripped the gauges, scanned the gauge faces, painted faces, painted needles. Spent some time working on the scans, and printed them on some plastic sheets (like one use on overheads). Cut the prints and glued them on the painted gauge faces. A bit of a rought job, but let me know what you think.