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HybridZ

Zerrari GTO

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Posts posted by Zerrari GTO

  1. I need to bring this thread up again because it's rear brake upgrade time for me and wanted to confirm rotor choice. I am interested in doing the Modern Motorsports rear disc conv. using the 1989-94 240sx calipers. The rotor sold with this kit is listed as a Brembo 4 lug/11.4". Is this an aftermarket replacement rotor for the 1984-85 300zx rotor?

     

    What I want to know is- if I want to outsource this part of the setup, could I just buy replacement rotors for the 84-85 300zx?

  2. Sven,

     

    Originally Posted by bobs302z

    ... mounted it solid because i used full length headers and they are very ,very tight...

     

    I think he's refering to the fact that he was able to actually get full length headers to fit with the 302 swap but because they fit so tight in the car he had to make solid mounts (no wiggle room when the engine torques)

  3. I have a question for the 250 GTO guys. Has anyone ever tried to use the trim ring for the headlight covers available from Scorpion on a Vela Rossa front end??? How about the trim ring for the lower oval intake???

     

    I have been wondering the same thing. From the looks of the two front ends I doubt that they will match but it would sure be nice to have some stainless trim up front on my Velo Rossa.

    I was told that John Washington has (had) some trim for the headlight covers but they were around $600 for the pair. I'll shoot him an email and find out.

  4. Looks great! How about some more pics; especially of your cv/rear disc setup.

    And stay in touch with this website! It's guys like you who have complete, finished cars that are extremely helpful to those of us who are still up to our elbows in the process.

  5. Dayz- most people here, myself included have used 18ga sheet for floor and unibody repairs. It's a little thicker than factory sheet metal in many areas and easy to weld if you take you time and take care not to burn through your welds.

    Dipping the car would be the best move but it can be expensive; Henry Cotanzo (the Pres. of the Z club down here) just had a shell dipped for $1.50 per pound. The shell and doors weighed in at 600+ lbs. (over $900).

    If you can't swing that then sandblasting and scraping are in your future (thats the route I went).

    If you are going to restore the sub-frame and uinbody, go ahead and do the sub-frame connector upgrade. The shell is already stripped and you will kick yourself later for not doing it. Install these while the car is on jackstands; especially if you think things are too weak to suspend on a rotisserie. You won't be sorry.

    Speaking of-do yourself a favor and make a rotisserie. It will be one of the easier parts of what your getting ready to do and cut your work time in half.

     

    Take your time and cut out anything on the shell that is questionable. If you cannot see the inside of a body part in question cut out a small section and look around inside. These cars are known for rusting from the inside out. If you like to fabricate and have patience (and the car is not a total basket case) you will have something to be proud of when your done.

  6. BOOMER-Z don't forget the Detomaso Pantera; that was a sweet application!... but you know what-your right. The 351C was great in it's day but there are much better Ford engine options now.

    This thread just kind of took me back a few years and reminded me of crusing in the Mach 1 with Led Zepplin playing and funny smelling smoke flowing out of the windows...Far out man!

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