Zerrari GTO
-
Posts
424 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Zerrari GTO
-
-
I still have mine sitting out in my storage shed. I'll take a picture and try and have it posted here tomorrow night.
-
Looking good!
Do you still have the rotisserie available' date=' or has it been sold? I am working on a '78 280Z and it would really come in handy![/quote']
DaleMX came over to my house on Sunday and decided he wants it.
He has completed a badass LS1 swap and now he's going to take it all apart to do body and sub-frame mods.
His LS1 install looked great and the car should be quite scary to drive.
-
Are there not any factory brackets that will work?
-
Looking good J.P.!! The pics of the chassis on the rotisserie look familiar! You'll be passing me up progress-wise any day now...
Wagz- What can I say...I could not have done it without your help and your website to guide me along!
-
jmortensen:
I measured the "mast" on my rotisserie and from the bottom (where it is welded to the circular plate) up to dead center on the pivot point is 37".
This left me with a couple of inches clearance over the connecting rods between the two sides.
Quote:Twoeightnine
P.S Are you going to use a Reaction Eng. kit?
-Do you mean the Velo Rossa kit from Reaction Research?
If so, then yes thats the kit.
The 280 shell is about 500lbs+. This rotisserie could handle a lot more than that. It's the unibody you have to worry about. If you start loading on suspension pieces and such while the car is suspended at the extreme ends you might tweak something.
This thing is for local P/U if anyone is interested.
-
I've been searching in the archives and I can't seem to find a figure for how high the pivots have to be in order to spin the car without smacking the roof on the ground. Would you happen to know?
I had the same concern. I measured the width of the car and cut the mast(s) on the rotisserie long enough for clearance. I'll measure them when I get home tonight and post it here.
-
I've got the sub-frame connectors installed (thanks for the plans Pete), new floors in and everything sealed and undercoated.
I welded-up this rotisserie in a few days and it has been invaluable for this process. The pivot points are adjustable and indexed (at 3 1/2" offset I could spin my car with one hand).
Castors made it easy to wheel out in the driveway to work on (and watch people flip-out when they saw a car suspended).
Anyway, I'm done with it and ready to start the body kit install. If anyone in my area is interested, I'll take $150 for it (material cost). It's fairly light weight and knocks down for transport. Shoot me a PM if you are interested.
-
Hey JP, here is one in the Atlanta area: [url']http://atlanta.craigslist.org/pts/85912376.html[/url]
Thanks Mike- I emailed a reply but I have never had any luck with anyone getting back to me from Craig's List.
I hope this one is different.
-
-
You can't hide a midget in the hatch of a Z!
-
With the price of classic muscle cars going through the roof, many vintage blocks are being snatched up at premium prices for restorations.
There are still some good ones out there but you better be willing to move fast and spend the bucks ($200 is a deal from what I've seen).
-
I've gone through the information here and even posted an inquiry as to where to find my metal replacement battery tray that was not salvagable.
All I got back was "put your battery in the back; it will take weight off of the front and you can get light weight batteries that weigh only a few pounds that will fit in the storage compartments behind the seats!"
I researched and found sources for very lightweight batteries (I think around 7lbs.)
So, that being said, why go to the trouble of mounting your battery in the back if it weighs only a few pounds and will hardly effect weight distribution?
....Anybody know where to get a metal replacement tray for the battery? I could fab one but would really rather have an OEM looking tray.
Thanks!
-
Any one here have a 3 duce set up in their car? I am concerned with a possible rpm limitation with all the manifolds I have looked at so far. They all seem to have a very low rise.
Check with Speed Racer. He with a picture of his 327 tri-power have posted on this thread. It doesn't sound like he has had any problems with reving his setup.
-
We did it all the time in the 60's and 70's. They made great power, revved like crazy, and sounded awesome at 8000+ RPM. We put them in Healy's, Camaros, 55-57 chevys, anything that wasn't a complete tank.
What pistons did you use?
I am going to be using L98 vette heads (58cc chamber) and I want to keep the compression reasonable; 9.0-1. I imagine I will need a dished piston to do this.
Thanks!
-
Getting back to the carb/FI question.
Another reason for going carb(s) instead of FI is purely for the sound caburetors make when they open up...pure heaven!
-
Holy smokes!!!
-
I've done the 327. Nice engine, but I wanted more grunt, along with a less radical character, so I went with a 400.
Pete, what do mean by "radical character"? I want a 327 for my car because it would seemingly have a little revier sound that would be better suited for the 250GTO body.
I want average compression 9:1 and moderate H.P. (around 300) using as mild of a cam as possible. I have a T-5 WC and thought this type of engine would help keep me out of the transmission shop.
I'm not sure how radical your 327 was but what I want is a very easy to deal with engine-not with radical character.
Is the 327 a good platform for this?
-
It's not a problem. Me and three of my friends picked up the shell of my 280 to mount on a rotisserie and it was easy.
We estimated the weight to be about 500 lbs+ (227+ kilograms).
-
I bought one 3 years ago for $70. Machined aluminum. Photo in my album. I don't think the guy who sold it to me is still around though. I may need to take some measurement?
Phantom- I could'nt find the photo and would really be interested in seeing it and getting some measurements.
Oh yea-your car is BAD!
-
The rating on a pressure washer is calculated with the zero tip (max pressure). Most models come with 4-5 tips that allow you to drop the pressure down to well below 1000 psi.
Go for a 2400-2600 with a Honda engine. This will give you a great range of operating pressures and the reliability of a Honda. I've seen them new for around $600.
-
Yep, he rocks. His service and the products he offers are top notch.
-
This was definitely the biggest pain in the a$$ of all the the things I've done so far.
When I said everything went together well, that was after the strut housings were bead blasted, the bores for the spindle pins cleaned with WD-40 and a wire cleaning brush for a shotgun. The spindle pins were then sanded with 400 and then 600 grit so that they would slide into the bores. The metal sleeves that came with the poly bushing set had to be opened up a little on the ID's with a die grinder and round file.
After all that it still took about an hour per side of compressing the poly bushings with C clamps and metal plates and then quickly taking the clamps off and trying to slide the strut housing into the control arm and get the spindle pin in position.
I'm glad my kids were in bed because a constant stream of profanity and expletives could be heard coming from my garage during this lengthy process.
Getting the origional spindle pins out was about as much fun. Lots of heat and a big hammer!
-
Thanks guys.
Everything has been reassembled and went together very well.
I just wasn't sure how much to torque the spindle pin nuts.
-
Can anyone tell me how much to torque the lock nuts on the ends of the spindle pin(s)?
Thanks
280z gas tank pics
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
I did not have a chance to take the picture last night- will try again tonight.