DStegs

Hey guys, I hear ya talkin about replacing floor pans in a 280Z. Mine is a 2+2. I got a 4X8 sheet of 18 guage, had it wacked to give me 2 2X6 foot sections. I also got 2 6 foot sections of 1 x 3 rectangular tubing in 16 Guage for the frame "rails" for under the floor. In working with the floors in your cars, what is the length of the floor from where the front bends up to the back where it meets the verticle section behind the seats. I have mine measured at 56 inches. I am wondering if it is the same length as the coupe, with the difference in coupe vs 2+2 being the section behind the verticle section. If so, would the floor pans be the same? Just curious because I know that no one makes a 2+2 floor pan and I had thought about getting a coupe floor pan from one of the companies that came up when I googled it, and adding the section to make it long enough for a 2+2. I see that most of the comments were made 3 years ago so if anyone is still watching this site, let me know. Please respond. Thanks. Dave

Well, as one who can do or try anything, I screwed up. Way earlier in the post I said I had plugged my pcv valve to check for vacuum leaks. Well, when I taped the cracked hose and hooked up the others to a "t" fitting to join the hose from the valve cover to the hose from the crankcase and then into the pcv valve, I had forgotten that I had it PLUGGED. Well, the pressure built up and blew out most of the soft gaskets and a hose or two. Those were simple fixes. The BIG problem occured when it blew out the rear main seal. Life got busy and the car sat for a season. I now have the engine and tranny out. The engine is at the machine shope getting fitted with most all new stuff in hopes of getting it back in the car by the time of our 28th Street Cruise. (Grand Rapids has joined Detroit by having a cruise similar to the Woodward Cruise). During the removal and prep for the rebuilts' return, I did locate and remove the BCDD. I made a plate and gasket to fit over the opening that used to hold it to seal it. My simple question after the preceding confession is... Do I still have to plug the holes with sealant or will the plate and gasket do the trick? It will be sealed from the outside but I don't know if any of the holes inside will "Leak" to the others and cause a problem. OH! With everything out, I would also like to upgrade to a 5 speed transmission. Anyone know of one for sale?? Probably should do the clutch and bearing also. HHHMMMM. Rather do it now than later.. If anyone is still following this, please let me know. Thanks. Dave

Wedge, me too! Hope he hasn't stalled on it or given up. Liked the progress he was making so far. A real inspiration to us all. I have to redo the floors in mine. Michigan and old cars usually don't go together very well because of the salt. Not going to go the sandblasting route though. Just cut what I see is bad and weld in new. Looking for more posts Mull. Thanks for what you've done so far. Good luck.

Well, I haven't gotten to removing the big old monster of a BCDD under the throttle body but I did get the idle to smooth out. I pulled the hose from the valve cover into the rubber boot before the TB and plugged the hole. Runs smooth now. Took the hose and T'd it into the hose from the crank case and ran both to the PCV valve on the bottom of the manifold. Really screwed up first though because I had epoxied shut the old pcv valve and when I hooked up the new hose system the pressure in the crank case blew out the valve cover gasket and the seal around the oil filter. Guese that could be described as a crankcase "leak" test. Oh well, new gasket and a much neede oil change solved that problem. Runs smooth now but still have to get the RPM's to drop quicker. Guese the BCDD is next. Thanks again for all the help.

Oh, will the 240Z bumpers fit the 280? Or is there an aftermarket that will fit and cover the body grooves for the bumpers??

Didn't think to check Autozone. Thought the Z might be more erotic than what they have. I'll give them a call now. Thanks.

Is the TB gasket any special material or can I make one from gasket material? Or could I silicone it sealed??

Great, now I have something to do this weekend. Learning as I go. Both with the site and my car. Attempting "signature". Thanks.

carfiche.com my friend I either need stronger glasses or I have to blow it up a bunch larger. How do you read it or is it better if you download a page and print it??

Man that is UGULY! No wonder it gives everyone a PITA! So where do I take it off at? Is it just the round thingy at the bottom with the 5 or 6 screws in the base of it or is it everything south of the TB?

Duder280Z, Thanks for the description of the BCDD and how to remove and plug it. Will get a gasket and tackle that next. I get this thing running any better and I won't want to get rid of it...... Still have to work on R and R ing the floors. Got an idea from Mull's videos on taking out and installing new floors. I think I can do it from the top down without stripping and flipping it over. Looks like the flat 18ga. with 2x3" rails is what I am going to do to it. Might lose about an inch and a half but can fit the seat rails to work at the correct level. Oh, to find a 2+2 floor system and just weld it in. Right now I have a patchwork repair job on it and the rails are still bad. Oh well, I didn't want to get bored this summer.

I understand things slip and stretch with age (gee, that sounds familiar) but I haven't checked the pully/engine alignment. I also want to either check or replace the timing chain and gears because of the same potential problem. I did (prior to spending any money) open and check the throttle valve switch. I did that after the tests from the EFI PDF bookelet. It indicated the throttle valve working on acceleration but not decelleration. Well with nothing to loose, I cracked the baby open and lo and behold, no contact on the decell. mode so I took my needle nose and bent it till it made contact, and it now works as it should. A bit of silicone sealant in the corners and it is back in place functioning as it should. One more thing that you guys suggested is next on my list and that is the BCDD valve?? Guese it is under the TB. Any suggestions as to what it is and looks like. I can kindof see it from above but don't know for sure what it looks like. Someone else here said to take off all the extra garbage on the manifold and plug the appropriate holes. That is coming also. The car now starts, idles, goes, and stops like it hasn't in years. I do want the rpms to drop like a rock when I decellerate so I guese the BCDD will do that???? Thanks for the help, and suggestions from all. Hope you had a great 4th of July.

Invest in a volt/ohm meter and try this site. I haven't been to the site you mentioned but they sound like they are from the same group. This gives you an EFI manual that will lead you through the tests to rule out problems. Have you checked compression for either bad rings or valve broken?? Good luck. I know it is frustrating. I am still going through it but at least I see the light at the end of the tunnel. And it ain't a train. Just checked the site. $64.48 for a new one at Advanced Auto. Do the test and see if you need one. Dave http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/e...ectionbook.pdf

Got this site for the EFI PDF booklet from thetremendoustim and it helped me with some terms and of course, testing the system. It helped me a lot and it leads you through almost all of the EFI system component testing. all you need is a little time and a volt/ohm meter to do the checks. Mine is also a 75 280Z with EFI. I still have a few things to replace but it helped get me to at least one of my major problems and ruled out my thermotime switch. You can download it and print it if you want. It is easier than taking the desktop into the garage. Good luck. Dave http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/e...ectionbook.pdf

Thurstnut, Thanks for the help. I followed a combination of Chiltons, old school and the EFI booklet I downloaded from TTT and after dinkin around with the vacuum leaks and weak brittle hoses, I got the idle down. FI had to have the thermotine switch pulled and jumped. It said nothing of pulling the vacuum line, but I had done that before with a couple of carbed cars before. I might still have a few leaks but at least it idles now. Next is the valve train and from what I found with the EFI booklet and the tests in the back, my throttle valve switch on the idle side is shot. That would contribute to my problem. Have been looking and I think Advanced Auto has one for cheaper than online. Looks like the right one and the pic matches the one I have. Also want to check the BCDD switch or valve but that is a bit more disassembly. Oh well, there is always tomorrow. Plus the switch won't be in for a couple of days. It runs good enough to drive so I am set for a while. Actually it runs better than before. This site and you guys have been very helpful and I will continue to use it. Later. Dave