tomcraft

Thats the problem Grumpy I dont have any of the items mentions except hand tools and jack stands .I just want to do the best i can and if it leaks again ill bring it into the shop and get it done correctly.Thanks

thanks for all this useful info im finally going to tackle the problem.I have the full piece thick felpro gasket ,the question is being that the leak wasnt coming from rear or front seal do i cut the gasket and leave the front and rear seals alone[im afraid the gasket being thicker wont allow the cover to tighten enough to the 2 seals].Do i go over them? Do i pull them out and use the new gasket [very afraid to do that].Remember i would have to cut the new gasket because pan only drops 1/2 inch infront to 2 inches in back.I guess another option is leaving the old cork {only ripped in 1 stop] and rtv the engine side.Please what do you think the best option is besides lifting engine .Thanks for your time its very appreciated

I have a sbc 383 gen1 in a 71 240 z .Grumpy i hope you can save me a little grief as a newb my oil pan was leaking so i went and bought a nice felpro gasket to replace my leaking cork one .Well i took all the bolts out and i dont have enough clearence to drop the pan .The front of the oil pan just clears the steering rod only allowing me to drop the back down about 2 inches.what should i do ?Im hoping i dont have to lift the engine just to change the gasket but im afraid even if i remove that rod ill then get stuck on the crossmember.Man do i feel dumb any suggestions appreciated.Imagine i just bought a procharger from ebay and i wanted to try to hook it up myself. lol

thanks good point

its a rear from a 300 z twin turbo i think ill stick with the drum until i change the rear .my mechanic is looking for the 9in. ford if we can get a good price maybe i can talk the wife into disks with a stubbed rear so woild love that info.thanks

thats the plan im just trying to find someone who can put it all together.Or ideas on the best engine/drivetrain combo.my drum brakes are shot so before anything i have to do a rear disk brake conversion.Grumpy do you have any info on that ,the dream can wait i have to get to work safely first.Im sorry about the original post after i read it i wanted to delete it.So vague

hi grumpy, I have a dream to rebuild my 1971 240 z .It currently has a 383 with a 4 speed m-22.Im looking for a fair reputable shop to build a reliable pump gas 900 hp daily driver .To accomplish this im thinking of going with an lsx 427 with low compression and procharger combo.Id like to run with low boost most of the time but be able to crank it up with little effort.I feel if its built right this combo can last 100,000 mi.do you feel that this is a doable goal ? Any suggestions on who can handle putting together the whole build.The whole drivetrain would need to be upgraded along with frame.thanks

thank you, is the oil that i used ok and whats the best way to adjust clutch linkage and check bearing

hi grumpy i have a m22 muncie 4 speed in my 71 240 z i changed my tranny fluid with mobil1 75w90 is that ok also i have a slight chattering noise coming from the flywheel area, i hear it when its in neutral.i thought i could take the shroud off that covers the flywheel whats the best way to investigate the noise to take off the shroud do i just hold up tranny sorry probably dumb question but i never did it thanks for your patience

i have a 1971 240z with a muncie m22 4 speed i just put in mobil1 75w 90 also should i take it out.what should i use thanks

thanks for your anticipated help im new to hotrodding and i need some help i have a 383 with an edelbrock carb 750.the car is running it seems a little rich.i was thinking of installing an air fuel gauge.The questions i have is where should i put the oxygen sensor ?how to best install it?is this a good idea?whats the ideal ratio?it seems to me that having a gauge would be great especially if i add forced induction but i dont see many cars with them wonder why ?thanks again

a couple of months ago i bought a 1971 240z it has a 383 stoker 405 hp with m-22 muncie and lsd r 200 the car handles great and really holds the road but i guess like many i thought i would be able to smoke the tires at 20 miles an hr i cant i see all the videos of 240 that just blow mine away im talking to a guy at smre about a procharger ,intercooler,with a new blow thru carb he says my engine reliably cant go more than 500 hp wat u think.my dream is to bld a 800 hp twin turbo small block in the future so i thought i can get used to the whole forced induction thing while adding 100hp.ive been investigating this tt sbc and its about 20000 done rt any ideas on how i can cut that in half i never built an engine and dont have the tools only the desire ,which really keeps it expensive.what tools would i need and how much would it cost to set up a garage to build an engine like this?it seems like everyone is building there own engines but i would think the cost of tools and guages,meters and what have u is real expensive.how do you do it??thanks for the time im mechanical but a newbie (obviously lol) when it comes to auto repair ,but would love some guidance on all these issues....on a diff. note my tach doesent register under 1500 rpm when cold but then works decent when engine is hot??? msd hei module heres the engine i have from blueprint maybe the chep way would be nitrous? what would u do? 4 bolt main 2pc rear seal block w/Passenger side dipstick (drivers side available upon request) Square and parallel decked Align honed main bearing bore Cylinders honed on computer controlled machine to within .0002 straightness and roundness Cylinders are sonic tested for thickness Rotating Assembly: New SCAT cast crankshaft Keith Black Hypereutetic pistons Chevy heavy beam rods with 150,000 psi bolts Hastings Moly rings Balanced rotating assembly Melling high volume oil pump Flat tappet hydraulic lifter camshaft Heavy duty double roller timing set Cylinder Heads: New Cast iron "vortec" heads 1.25 diameter valve springs Hardened retainers and springs 2.02 swirl polished intake valves 1.60 swirl polished exhaust valves 1.5 long slot, stamped steel rockers Hardened push rods A Ton Of Extras: Professional Products dual plane satin finish intake manifold 9.5 to 1 compression New chrome valve covers Brass freeze plugs Dyno tested – and shipped with results Comes with 30 month / 50,000 mile warranty Driver side dipstick is available-please specify when ordering Blueprint Engines recommends 91 Octane for this engine and a 2000-2400 RPM stall converter Critical Specs: Stroke: 3.75 Rod Length: 5.7 Camshaft: .487Int / .508 Exh & 234 Int / 244 Exh duration @ .050 - 110 degree lobe sep. Horsepower: 405 Torque: 440 Compression Ratio: 9.5 to 1 Ignition Timing: 13 to 16 Degree Initial / 34 Degree Total Spacer Corner Bottom Grid Corner Spacer

how do you post a pic of your car so it always there??

im in contact with SMRE there putting together a procharger kit with intercooler,blow thru carb and hat,to make about 500hp as like paul i want to build next engine the rt way but 4 now i want to get a feel for forced induction .has any body had a procharger p1sc seems like this co will put together a bolt on system,ill let u know the cost would love to hear ur thoughts

im hoping this engine can handle the setup you have engine only has 8000 mi and is strong so i dont want to kill it but it will be great if i can pick up another 100hp or so untill i can build a motor specifcally for turbo .do you think i should rebuild this motor when it dies or go with another sbc.would like to get800rwhp after rebuild thanks tom 4 bolt main 2pc rear seal block w/Passenger side dipstick (drivers side available upon request) Square and parallel decked Align honed main bearing bore Cylinders honed on computer controlled machine to within .0002 straightness and roundness Cylinders are sonic tested for thickness Rotating Assembly: New SCAT cast crankshaft Keith Black Hypereutetic pistons Chevy heavy beam rods with 150,000 psi bolts Hastings Moly rings Balanced rotating assembly Melling high volume oil pump Flat tappet hydraulic lifter camshaft Heavy duty double roller timing set Cylinder Heads: New Cast iron "vortec" heads 1.25 diameter valve springs Hardened retainers and springs 2.02 swirl polished intake valves 1.60 swirl polished exhaust valves 1.5 long slot, stamped steel rockers Hardened push rods A Ton Of Extras: Professional Products dual plane satin finish intake manifold 9.5 to 1 compression New chrome valve covers Brass freeze plugs Dyno tested – and shipped with results Comes with 30 month / 50,000 mile warranty Driver side dipstick is available-please specify when ordering Blueprint Engines recommends 91 Octane for this engine and a 2000-2400 RPM stall converter Critical Specs: Stroke: 3.75 Rod Length: 5.7 Camshaft: .487Int / .508 Exh & 234 Int / 244 Exh duration @ .050 - 110 degree lobe sep. Horsepower: 405 Torque: 440 Compression Ratio: 9.5 to 1 Ignition Timing: 13 to 16 Degree Initial / 34 Degree Total Spacer Corner Bottom Grid Corner Spacer Blueprint Engines

so happy to have found your thread i have a 71 240z with a 383 stroker .its a crate from blueprint engines i was wondering what you thought of my engine handling the 6 lbs of boost.like you would love to build it the right way but for now id like to go with a small boost and go till i i cant..think theres any kits that can save me from all the prefabrication thanks tom

hi glad i found this sight hope i can help as well as toss around ideas i just purchased a month ago i can say im real pleased it handles great and gets alot of traction .i have to admit i would love to have more power .the engine is as follows along with a muncie m22 tranny and a lsd r200 rear.im looking for someone who might have some ideas on a sbc twin turbo setup can i use my block or do you recommend something else im looking to get a daily driver wiyh 800rwhp..also do you think ill be ok with a 100hp shot of nitrous as is any thing i can help with let me know thanks tom

hi to all just purchased a 71 240z with 383 stroker from blueprint engines its got an m22 rock crusher with r200 lsd rear.im reral interested to find anyone who has added a turbo too sbc. i know my engine is not really designed for it but was hoping to go a low boost and get about 500 hp(its 405 now)have fun with it till it dies ,then rebuild specifically to handle 800hp,after writing down sounds like i should just play with nos lol.anyone have a 240 z with sbc twin turbo.