Organdonor

Thanks for responding Matt, I don't have a stimulator, but was able to check at different stages of the assemble process with a multi-meter. In trying to trouble shoot the problem I put a multi-meter across pin 5 of the relay board and ground and turned the ignition key to on and cranking position. It showed 0 voltage to prime the fuel system or during the cranking process. I also did a continuity test from the #5 pin all the way out to the big connector to MS2. All three led flashes on initial start-up. At this point I'm suspecting something I haven't set in the programing or some parameter thats too far out of whack. What area should I be looking at in the software, or the MS2 board itself that might have an effect. Also,sorry for the delayed response..., 12 hour days at work : ) Renn

I'm currently trying to run MS11 - V3.0 with relay board from DIY Auto tune. I have not been able to get the fuel pump relay to put out a signal, either to prime or run the fuel pump. At this point I've gotten the car to run by wiring the fuel pump directly to the ignition hot wire. My directed question would be - is there something in the programming that needs to be set for the fuel pump relay to put out a signal, or perhaps something to look for in the actual hardware? Thanks in advance for any light you can shed on my hiccup. Renn 72 240z 2.687 firmware 2.4L with P90 head T3/T4 turbo

I've done the 510 rear slotting on my 83zxt and have good adjustability of both toe and camber, with the added benefit of been able to center the larger diameter wheels 18x 9 1/2 in the wheel well.

I went with the modern-motorsports package from Ross.

PnyPwr, Have you made any more progress on this swap? Also, do you have some clearer pictures from the top and bottom if possible. TIA Renn

This sounds like a good start. Where can I find this product/manufacture and do you have any experience using this product. Thanks

I know this might me a bad idea, but I was wondering if I could use some epoxy filler in my rear crossmember mounts as well as in the rear differential mount to stiffen up the stock rubber mounts, to make it more of a solid mounting system. I know that Jeff P has used custom made aluminum bushings for his project 280zxt, and I've also seen modified Z31 polyuretane bushing used. Would the epoxy be strong enought for the job or become too brittle over time to make this a viable alternative? If this is at all possible what type of epoxy should I consider for the job? This would be for an 83 s130. I currently have the rear crossmember striped and slotted for camber and toe adjustment and the while I'm at it bug has reared it sometimes expensive head. Thanks in advance for your time and opinions/ critique on my ideas. Renn

I'm in the process of adapting 2 pairs of the inside adjusters off a z31 on to the rear of my 83zxt and would like to know what size Hole Saw to purchase. I have the rear cross member sitting on the bench for easy access. Also is there a difference between the z31's and the camber kit,size wise, sold by MSA. Thanks in advance. Renn

Do you have better pictures of the SS manifold without the wrap, and how much $ are you asking for it? Thanks.

Do a search for "Jeffp", I read on his site, where he is running custom aluminum bushing on his rear subframe. Also search for Ross's site, ModernMotorsports for more ideas for the rear end squat. I'm running his 12 way adjustable QA1 coilovers and can dial out most of the squat at the mid to higher settings. Renn

I appreciate the link, Thanks renn

I did a search but couldn't find it in the archives. I was under the impression that the water line from a 300zxt (t28) would fit, but when trial fitting it together on the work-bench, the 300's banjo bolts fittings are too small. Can someone please tell me what size is needed. TIA.. Renn

A Ninga 250 new is about $3000. It's a great starter bike with a good resale value if you decide to upgrade as your needs increases.

I'm running Ross's coilover conversion for the front of my zxt and his QA1 adjustable coilovers for the rear. All his instructions were first rate and the install was uneventful.

A little more information about your car will promp more members to help you.

Looking down at your stock-modified pop-off valve, grab the internals with a pair of plyers and twist 1/8 to 1/4 turn and the internals will come out. Add a thicker or more washers between the spring and valve as needed to increase the spring pressure until the desired psi is achived. The proper type of washers can be found at your local hardware store, they are often refered to as a fender washer.

Hi again Turbo Meister, I personally feel that your car should of earned quite a few award for the dedication, creativity and most of all for the inspiration that you provide us all with. Tim's mongoose was nice as well his Lt1 install and custom rear panel was outstanding definately worthy of a few awards. mas 280, the LS1 looks better in your Z that it does in any camaro. I can't wait to see the complete package after you get it painted. You guy took it to another level and represented very well.

Any updates about the viability of the mercedez head swap? It would be great to have a double overhead cam crossflow head on the strong L6 bottom end. Thanks.

go here for a good explanation. http://www.hammondsplains.com/zclub/techtips/

I took the complete AC unit from my 76 280z parts car. Can it be retrofitted into my 71 240z project? Has anyone here done it? I looked at the mounting tabs for the underdash unit and it seems like it would match up to mounts on the 240z. Also, would painless wiring provide a harnest for this application. Thanks in advance!

Subcription made, looking forward to delivery.