abc_was_here

Hello I am looking for an 82-83 280zx turbo distibutor complete with CAS and preferably with the wires to the harness. If you have please PM me and name your price. Thanks

I have checked the wiring a number of times now, I have also verified my wiring with a friend of mine who has a 77 swapped L28ET. I talked to the people at baxters aka "bastards" and they think it could potentially be a bad cas within the new dizzy as well. He gave me a number to call to talk to a local distributor guy. Shortly after called him told him my story and he said the guy I needed to talk to was not in today and gave him my number. Told me he would have him call me the next day. On day three now. I think im going to try and find a know good distributor and if I still continue to have problems Im going to get rid of this motor. Way to many gremlins. Just to refresh everyone this is already my second remaned distributor.

I thought vacuum leak a couple weeks ago as well, My boost/Vacuum gauge does not read any abnormalities. I also cannot find any leaks or problem areas. I guess the next thing to do would be to actually do a test on it. Im 99% sure its a spark problem, as I went out to start the car and it would not start. No tach signal, and no spark. Did a number of various tests (voltage to ecu, voltage to ignitor, power to coil, and several more)couldnt find the problem. After two days of trying to get it to start, day three comes along and car starts up like like nothing is wrong. Then the problem came back after a few minutes. I think I may just put my NA motor back in it, as I can still drive the car then.

its a 1980 280zx swapped in a 83 L28ET direct swap factory ecu and such. Its all stock minus exhaust. Used the factory 83 harness.

You know I've tried almost everything at this point I have 2 ecus, 3 ignitor, I'm on my third dizzy cause the last one was rebuilt wrong, I've played with the injectors and there not coming from there, I've tried two afms, 2 CHTS, and I've even tried ,different plug wires, and different coils. Out of all the stuff I have I get the same result. I've gone through my entire wiring harness and fusable links to see if there was a grounding problem. I could not find one. Nothing was out of place. It appears to be a spark issue. It tends to only show up once the motor is warm. I get no weird voltage reading from the ignitor or ecu to ignitor. I'm pretty well stumped.

At about wits end with this motor. So it misses when the tach jumps around, it seems to be an intermittent problem. It however seems to be getting worse. Heres a Video: Ignitor is good tried two of them same result New Dizzy with CAS Checked CHTS Brand new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires Tried two coils both gave same results Im trying to see if anyone else has had this problem before. I couldnt find any info on this. This is my second ecu, This could potentialy be the problem, however I will look more into it when I get home from work. Thanks

Yes it was a reman, that's all that I can figure for it to act the way it did. The guys at the parts store thought I was crazy..

Well I guess can put a rest to this. The distributor I bought turned out to be fault, exchanged it for another one and now the timing is spot on. Thanks for everyones suggestions

I never pulled the oil pump or anything out though? Just swapped dizzy's. I do not know how it could be off a tooth... Unless its like that on the dizzy? Ya I searched the FSM for while on how to time it but couldnt really find anything useful..

No one else has any other ideas? I'm resorting to exchanging this dizzy out again, now another ten days til I get this back..

Thanks I guess I should have known that only pertained to an NA Dizzy; the turbo one is fixed and does not move like that. Thank you. Problem still persists...

No I have not used both of the adjustments, in fact I didnt even know they were two adjustments. Ive pulled the dizzy off four different times so I have no problem pulling it off.

No I never touched the pump just changed out the dizzys, and the wires around the cap? I don't believe those can go together wrong.. I will check when I get home though.. This is really frustrating problem to have, I'm going to see if I can get my core back and see if I can get it tto work..

So long story short, ran into a bunch of problems that probably at this point now had nothing to do with the dizzy. Anyway computer went out and got another one, I had already gotten a reman dizzy. Finally got the car to start now I cant get the timing past 2deg of advance. I can retard it out the wazoo. But all the way turned for advance it will only go to 2deg. Does anyone had any similar problems? or ways to fix this. The dizzy pretty much cant go in upside down as the wires for the cas would be out wack. The other thing I noticed today is that it seems the alternator might not be working correctly. However these dont have any thing in common correct?

Okay well short story, Swapped in a L28ET. Got the car running decent, started every time and pulled pretty good. Now sometimes when I go to start the car after its been sitting a while it wont start at all. Pull the wire ground it, no spark. At the same time the tach does not jump. So I pretty much think its the CAS. Anyway I go on ahead and replace it with another one that I had car fired right up and gave me no problems. Drove it like that for three days and no problems. I go camping for the weekend then come back and the same problems persist now. Car wont start or I have to fiddle with things to get it to start. I figured I had fixed the problem with the CAS. It did do this too, tach would all of a sudden start shooting around as I was driving. or the car would just die as the clutch is still out in gear no tach. I figures theres only three real problem areas.. CAS Ignitor ECU I have replaced the CAS and ignitor already from spare parts I had. Although if anyone else has any other ideas or similar experiences to share that would be great. Thanks

Thanks for the suggestions guys I always wondered if powerlots were any good. http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1980/nissan/280zx/brake/brake_rotor.html A little cheaper here.

So now that Ive got my 1980 280zx turbo swapped I wanna make this thing stop better. Ive already determined to buy stainless lines, however I am kinda stuck on what to do for rotors and pads? I never had a problem with the way it stopped before just when using the brakes consistently they tend to fade really bad. What kind of pads would anybody recommend? MSA sells PBR brand, does anyone know if those are any good? As for rotors, I have read the factory rotor is good and not to do drilled. Would just getting my factory rotors turned be good enough, or is there a good rotor anyone can recommend? Mainly use the car as a driver, and rarely take it to the drag strip. I would eventually like to do light autoxing with it too though. I tried searching but I dont really see a reason to swap to a different caliper and go through that hassell when my factory equipment works okay. I figured updating the Original stuff would more then help my problem. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Your car is coming along nicely! Really enjoyed reading your build

Well finally got the car to the exhaust shop the car sounds good and pulls fairly well! I am uncertain if it really pulls much harder than my NA did. No missing or popping.

Well the car runs and drives pretty darn good at lower rpms and not in boost. It seems to miss once I hit any kind of boost. I also still cannot figure out why it wont idle. Im guessing a few hoses I have might be a problem. May also be a AFM problem as the PO decided it was a good idea to play with the mechanisms inside. I still need to clean up the wiring by the coil cause I was still playing with it hoping for it to be a factor. I also think Ive got leaky injector. it holds great fuel pressure for around 2-3 hours. Oh well I guess I just need more time to work on it. Two jobs makes things a little difficult.

Thanks man, and I used my original NA flywheel and clutch. It just looked to be in really good shape. I still have the turbo flywheel and clutch, it just looked like the PO didnt really know how to drive a manual. He even claimed it to be basically new. In other news, I drove the car around today, it needs some tuning and Im going to take it to an exhaust shop to connect it to the rest of my full system exhaust so I can hear myself think and listen to the motor clearer. It sounds okay when im driving it, but there seems to be a slight miss. It also will not hold an idle currently unless a vacuum line is disconnected.

It LIVES! Kinda..it fired at least! its almost 4:30am so I figured I will stop while im ahead and hit the hay and do some more work to it in the next few days...

Thanks man. Ya the quarter is a huge bummer cause thats really the one thing I am not confident with.. body work.. One day someday it will get repaired along with the rear tail light area as well. You know I think Im done with the wiring at this point I finished up everything tonight to do with the wiring. Who knows though the true test will come in the next few days when I try and start it.

Getting the harness in the firewall Slowly dropping the motor down MOTOR IN! I almost didnt car enough off the waste gate mount though...

Well Ive got almost all the wiring in and done. The only thing im running into issues with is the coil wires. Other then that the block is almost ready to drop in within the next day or two.