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JayBee280

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Posts posted by JayBee280

    Adjusting gas pedal sensitivity?

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    HAHA this post is funny...this guy only needs a simple answer. Here it is. Go to your local auto parts store ask for throttle body return spring.

    I had this same problem the gas pedal was extremly sensitive(sometimes hovering idle) this is not driver error. Its simply to sensitive for certain drivers and the way they like to drive.

    I even go better gas mileage because the tension on gas made it easier and more detailed from going to 10% throttle to 20% back to close then going

    10% to 50% then close. I paid nomore than 3 bucks for it and it is well worth it.

    smelly exhaust

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    I have read all the threads on dealing with the exhaust smell in the drivers compartment. My 260 has a fresh 280 engine with many upgrades. My SU's are tuned properly, car drives great, idles down to 700rpm pulls strong and plugs look great. At idle with the windows down you get fumes in the car, widows up no fumes. In my youth I drove many cars from the 60s with holes in the floor, exhaust leaks etc. with no fumes in the car. My question is does anyone have an opinion why our cars smell so bad. Is it a function of the su carbs or the lack of efficiency in the cylinder head. Everyone seems to focus on keeping the fumes out of the cabin but not the fumes themselves. Any ideas would be great.

    Bob

     

     

     

    I have a 280z L28 and i had terrible problems with a smelly exhaust. But beings the 280 was fuel injected i took the air flow meter and leaned out the fuel mixture and it completely got rid of fumes. One window down one up.....no fumes. both windows down no fumes. both up no fumes. Idle no fumes. I never have problems since then and my eyes used to burn sooooo BAD. But idk the correct procedures with working with SU carbs but whatever steps you take/took to get them tuned. lean out the fuel. And plus to make things every so better my car runs so much stronger through the rpm band. O and i have leaks and holes everywhere for fumes to be bad and they are no longer are present. I promise the results will be more satisfying weather you gain or lose any horses in the process.

    77 280 falling on its face after pressing throttle

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Ok I need some help as I am losing hair quickly on this basically stock 77. I may leave something out, as I have done allot, but will try to include as much detail as possible.

    Car was running fine 8 hours earlier, came out starts just fine until I touch the gas and it stalled out. since then I have done the following.

    1. Checked timing

    2. Checked vacuum

    3. Tested TPS (found dirty connectors but are now clean and reporting correct per FSM page ef-22

    4. Easy from zcar suggested the AFM finger test and found that if I controll the weight from AFM car runs also is I slowly and throttle car will rev all the way up

    5. Fuel pressure test is good

    6. Working through stalling steps on FSM page ef-21 only thing I really found odd is at pin one only showing 8.1 volts

     

    I am not sure what else to do at this point. Going to get a coil in the morning to see.

     

    The coil in 280's were not 12v they only work from 6-8v through the stock ecu.

     

    Get some Mass air flow sesor cleaner from your autoparts store. Spray the inside of the maf, let dry for 2-3 min start it see how it runs

    Monster truck 240 spoted

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Interesting that it seems to be titled as a Z even though it's sitting on a truck frame. I wonder if that's how it's done legally in FL?

     

     

     

    when it comes to cars and legality i believe florida is more lenient than any other.

    ive seen skylines being sold all over craigslist that have been florida driven/registered.

     

    but anywho i seen the link im most likely not gonna click on it. the gnose is already

    trying to grow on me.

    what did i get myself into?!?!

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    I just purchased a non-running 1978 280z. At what point is too much rust too much?! I got it for 400$ i know for sure one frame rail needs to be redone, the floor pan seems good, and the exterior is all kinds of rusted.

     

    if i cant do it, ill be forced to get it junked but it has a title, all original etc. I really want to bring it back to life! I am in the military and don't have a lot of money. No garage, but i want to get it running so i can bring it on base to the hobby shop that has a full body shop & start grinding and welding. I can leave it there etc.

     

    This fuel injection is impossible!!!!! i wish it was carb'd! I am havng the classic problem, been reading the FI bible, searching google. Still cant get her running.

     

    So far it has a new fuel pump & filter, and spark plugs. I am getting spark, and the fuel pump was wired manually and was running. The injectors are getting there 12v power, but not grounded. Checked the relay and don't really know what to do, cleaned the fusible link contacts etc. I tried starter fluid just in case. Could it be the timing? Even then the injectors still arent putting fuel into the cylinders.

     

    I am at a loss right now. I am in Eastern north carolina, so any of you guys from around here?

     

    Any help would be appreciated thank you!

     

     

     

     

    Hey man dont get get scared your car is actually in great shape for the age its in. and its unmolested so dont junk it. And you have title. But anyways ill be in eastern nc next weekend i can come take a look at it. I know since your in the marines your either at cherry point or camp lejune i grew up at cherry point so thats where ill be and i frequent to jacksonville all the time. So ill keep in touch and i can come help you get it right before you junk it. I had the same couple of problems wit my 280.

    Manifold Studs

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    i just had to replace my studs go to your local auto parts store get the stud kit in the size that the guy above me like they fit great and they are local so....none of that ordering of any website they are overpriced in my opinion. but i just did that a couple days ago.

    Lighting problems

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    not sure if you found you fix yet. But i just had this problem...almost ripped my whole dash out trying to figure it out.....electrical connections just corrode after awhile...my best advice that helped me is BUY some electrical connection cleaner from your local autoparts store. clean up the connection from the alternator to the battery. unscrew the fuse box turn it over spray the electrical connection cleaner on the entire fuse box it drys quick so i did it 3 times. i even sprayed my combo switch. My lights came back even better then before.

    L28 Flywheel and Clutch Interchange

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by JayBee280

    I gotta ask since the Ka24 is seemingly identical in certain ways....does anybody know if a Lightweight underdrive pulley for Ka24 work on a L series.

    Just wondering since the bolts line up on one side with the clutch and flywheel combos..what about the underdrive pulley....just wondering might buy one.

    Fuel pump / relay issues. 280Z

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    well i had a similar problem i drive 78 280z.

     

    Before i get on to what i did. Check your spark plugs. you should run copper plugs in that car. I put platinum spark plugs in my car hoping for the best....then got the worst 3000 miles later. They looked like they were 20,000 miles old. The copper plugs run much better. I went to autozone hoping to get some more platinum plugs until the guy told me copper plugs were recommended.

     

    well anyway

    First thing that happened to me was my car would run like crap it would idle below 700 rpm then shut off. on the fuel pump itself there is a filter screen....well heres the link http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html. basically i removed the whole screen because it was gunk all in it...after that it ran and idle smooth like new.

     

    um and the relay issue...i had the same problem mine would flicker on and off sometimes cutting my car off. So what i did was cut the wires that ran to the relay. found a 12v positive power source. ran the positive to the switch grounded the negative wire and now i have a fuel pump on and off switch. my came with and on and off switch for something i dont know what for. But you can find switches and lowes or hardware store and they also have relays there that people use in homes. im not sure if it would work but i figure if you buy a relay with the right amperage/voltage whatever and run the wires you need you can probably replace the relays in the car i havent tried it yet. Just ran the switch it works perfectly. umm well if you dont get anything i just said than ask im more than welcome to help where i can.

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