JayBee280
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Posts posted by JayBee280
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FIRST OF ALL. you have way to many cars...give me one nah jk
but it just all happened one day after i bled the slave cylinder
and went to move it.
well i went to check the afm cleaned the sensor with the maf
cleaner. then noticed the cover that hides the electroics behind
just fell off the side of it like i had little gremlins come tamper
with my baby.
but anyways it ran fine and revved happy like stock car than it
all sprung on me. I changed the fuel filter thinking it was clogged
but it needed to be changed it was nasty inside.
but now it just revs to 2-3k and falls on her face and dies.
1978 280z all stock
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i also get a hissing noise from my air flow meter.
but ill try the oil filler cap idea now
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anybody selling su style early z manifold
manifold only
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Hey im looking for one!!
Pm me to 32536
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I believe this is what caused it run like a dirty whore....but cannot shoot some advice on how to seal the leakeage causing the air flow meter hissing
78 280z stock
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78 280z stock everything
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as the title says it idles smooth but just dies when i give it gas
i figured it was a vacuum leak but i havent touch anything in
the car engine wise. and just yesterday it would rev fine no
problems then it all went to s***
and on an added note i havent driven the car i just
start up my car let it run a lil bit then shut it off
because im waiting on the title to the car.
but as i was saying it revved fine yesterday
then i finished my clutch master cyclinder
rebuild and install in the car it was fine. then
i went to start it up today to put air in the tires.
so i gave it some gas and anything about 1500rpm
it would just die. first i thought i was mass air flow sensor
because this happen on a previous car i had
so i brought some cleaner and it did nothing....well maybe
but not what i was looking for.
anyways i hope that was enough info to help me out
and there is gas in the car i went and did that to
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simple answer yes
it should run without battery.
some science in these post.
just simple answers should do
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I love the advice actually i should just hold on to it for like emergency replacement part. I am gonna search this fusible link upgrade never heard of it. unless someone wants to give a quick run down about what it is. Still goin search anyways
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o no rest assure that money is being saved for a bigger upgrade....(itbs)
but i i was looking for things that usually fail or just some new parts as such the dizzy and things like that...thnx for the replies
dueces
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For those saying this is not possible...please i ask you to stop being bottom feeders. if it made those numbers truly or not it made those numbers. And its not that farfetched ive been around honda guys making what most of you guys make on 6cylinders, when they only have 4....the power is in the head who knows what the engine power responds to the best but i believe hes making that power just from watching the video. Its actually highly possible, just gotta find the right setup not alot of people have clean N/A setups like yourself good stuff
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O no nothings wrong at all. except i need to bleed the brakes but the engine is fine. im just looking for oem replacements unless there is a performance option for it. But like my resevoirs look nasty in my taste. i just want engine bay parts to be like new.
And what does everyone do with those vacuum lines that sit on top of the intake manifold. really couldnt find good key words to find someone who has done it or a write up.
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ha ha i know it doesnt sound like much but im not looking for huge engine components. Just things that can be had and replaced new for under 50bucks. Im starting with the engine bay first so everything in the engine. Next week brakes and other stuff.
Ive done the clutch slave cylinder, Spark plug wires and spark plugs. Oil filter and oil change.
Just looking for a list of new parts had for cheap like water pumps, sensors/ all that kinda stuff. Not huge crap like camshafts i guess external engine parts. I want to go ahead and get that out the way then work my way to internal.
So help out plz
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looking for a wiring harness from a S130 turbo
anybody
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GOTTA LOVE THE PIC.
and for those who thinks he's about to get lapped.......
he probably already did and the ferrari is just
comin back for seconds :/
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o definitely good Idea. great job looks good.
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I never could find a source with definitive details between the engines. Alot of minor things that make up alot of difference. I guess. Yea and i did see that google search built in i just used the regular one because i figured it would come out with better results since its hybridz search engine. But honestly thanx alot with sae and net difference.
and the head differences of course because when i first got on here 3 weeks ago i was clueless. And thanx for the link.
dueces
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IVE SEARCHED BUT IDK MAYBE THE SEARCH FUNCTION SUCKS OR MAYBE IM NOT GOOD AT SEARCHING BUT SWEAR I CAN GOOGLE MY A** OFF!
Ok this is pertaining to the 280z stock l28 owners and owners of L28ET.
If yall didnt know i just got my 280z stock unmolested a week ago and ive been searching here and there with the time i have. And of course im a little confused at why owners of a perfectly good L28 that is ready for turbo choose to swap for a L28ET...?
first i see people saying they do so because of the flat top piston.....let me do some corrections for second.
the l28's from 70's have dished top piston pistons.
the only l28s to come with flat tops were in the ZX models 81-83 or w/e
I believe the L28ET has some major flaws one being the low compression ratio it has. 7.4:1 i just think its to low. i really think you need more boost to make good power with that compression ratio. it seems to have much more potential to make good power idk intake manifold maybe.
8.3:1 comp. ratio for a turbo motor i think is perfect for good power especially since the early L28's came with dished pistons begging for boost. seems you could make some good power off of that right there.
and another thing. My 280z came with 170hp (refering to sticker on my car itself) from the factory and it doesnt matter if its at the crank(which it probably is) or at the wheels.
the l28et only has 180hp which is 10hp more. Now we all know engines are going to vary on the dyno, but just looking at numbers and numbers only that 10hp is like an intake and exhaust on most cars. and im not involving tq for a number of reasons. THATS JUST NOT BANG FOR YOUR BUCK NO MATTER HOW CHEAP THOSE ENGINES ARE.
But honestly it seems like everybody says the L28 has flat top pistons and i havent read once on here someone saying dishtop pistons in the L28. And its like alot of people swap for the L28ET and i can understand if you didnt have the L28 to start with but why swap if you have an L28 for L28ET?? I would (which i am) just start with exhaust manifold and wiring harness. instead of swapping the motor. IDK maybe its the electronics of L28et supressing power. but idk can i have some answers or some keen knowledge to let me know i lil suttin.
Sorry for any typos or missed words.
Thanks, JayBee
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thanx to u all like i said its a tad bit darker more like this(attached photo)
and thats pretty much where i got the idea for it.
but the car is red but its horrible paint so i was jst "prepping" the interior for the next color im going to choose.
really not sure yet, leaning to just a clean black. But i see alot on here along with them damn Rotas...no offense to anyone but i thought about gettin em until everybody and there mama had em.
but im doing some body work this friday for the small rust holes before i think about any paint.
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yea i thought about the black and gray but it kinda limited my options for the colors i want. the color is actually darker than the pictures these were all camera phone pics so it only does so much justice.
But thanx alot
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well i brought my car home friday rented and dolly from uhaul yadda yadda
started stripping it and finished my interior new carpet and such tell me what you think.
BEFORE/DURING/AFTER
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Ok i kno this should go in the drivetrain sub but it just seems ill get more response in this section
78 280z 5 spd
the clutch pedal is very very stiff and the car wont go into gear while the car on. it will off of course. but when i press on the clutch slowly its not so much pressure fighting back.
the fluid is low so would you think the slave cylinder would be leaking?
if any details are needed just let me know.
thanks
Idles smooth but dies when revved
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted
so i change my throttle body gasket out today and it helped rev but now it only revs to 4 grand then dies down slowly. i think it may be a fuel problem. and sometimes the air flow back fires..i guess thats what you call. like the flapper slaps back to the meter.