scorreia

For you 16" wheel guys, Falken will be producing their Azenis in a 215/45/16. I will be trying that size out if they manage to produce them by the spring.

That would be nicer if it were 6 feet longer. I had to take the transmission out of the car to remove mine. I brought it down to the shop and after whacking at it with an air hammer, then a chisel, the guy finally found a 6ft or so bar that he had to hang on to break it loose. Clearly I need a lift in my garage.... Why, oh why, is that fill plug such a bitch?

For a few years Acura had a limited edition color for the Integra's, Supersonic Blue Pearl. It is similar to the Electron Blue used on the Civic's, and whatever metallic blue is used on the Viper. SSBP has more of a purple tint to it though, and it changes colors based on the light. Park it under a metal-halide parking light and it looks like it is glowing. It direct sunlight it looks blue. When I had my Integra I got comments constantly on how good that color looked.

First investigate if they are truly warped, people mentioned it because buildup is the most commonly mistaken for warping. <Babble> If they are truly warped, you are about to enter into one of the more hotly contested topics in all of car land it seems. If we are lucky, this thread could go something like this (if it hasen't already at least 50 times): The science states that the crossdrilled portions are weak spots and that the mass of the rotor is also reduced. What crossdrilled rotors basically are are weaker, less efficient heat dissipating systems. Such a system would be ripe for cracking. Others will say that the crossdrilling increases the surface are of the rotor so the rotor will shed heat more rapidly. Perhaps that is even true, what is left to debate is which is more important - mass or surface area? Check the math to draw your own conclusions. Still even others resort to posting pictures of Porsches that come stock with crossdrilled rotors. Definitive proof if there ever was any, I wonder why those thread don't stop right there? A Hotly debated discussion will ensue about whether Porsches holes are cast or drilled. If we're really lucky, we'll get a friend of a friend of an engineer whose cousin worked at Porsche actually casting them type story. Someone else chimes in about their slotted rotors and how they offer the least compromise in the Mass reduction department, but still offer better wet weather and glazing resistence. Another picture of a McLaren F1 makes it's debut as further proof that crossdrilled is better. Enzo's follow suit. 3 pages of Enzo vs F1 debate, hopefully ripe with videos. Lots of people claiming AutoZone blanks are where it's at, with good pads and fluid, flushed regularly is the way to go. </babble> It seems I got ahead of myself there, that happens sometimes. I'm bored at home today. Cheers

Indeed I did, thanks. So to quote Mr. Wonka "strike that, reverse it."

For a great DIY lignment guide: http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13211&highlight=laser+alignment And if the car is getting squirrely at speed, my guess is that with the larger rear tires camber is slightly increased in the front. I am not familiar with toe changes through the range of suspension travel on the Z's, but wouldn't toe-in cause more of this problem than toe-out? You want toe-out for high speed stability, and toe-in for faster turn in response. A squirrely car would be 'turning in' when following road imperfections and such.

http://www.jsc.nasa.gov/bu2/inflateCPI.html I tried this calculator at a starting price of $3000, I think the Z might have cost more like $3500 in '70. 2004 cost equivalent for $3000: $14,226. So the value of the Z hasn't kept up with inflation. The May 2004 issue of Grasroots Motorsports has a Z article that lists the 2004 price of a 240Z at $17,287.50 (new was $3526).

After 5000 miles of New England weather, most recently a lot of it in the last 4 days it has been bucketing, I can say that is not true. Perhaps toward the end of their life but that is true of any tire. ollie05: if you are worreid about treadware, give the Kumho 712's a shot. Not as sticky as the Azenis, not as stiff a sidewall, but certainly a better performance tire than the Ziex (502 or 512). Just as cheap as the Azenis too.

If you want a great autox tire, get the Falken Azenis. They come in a 205/50 size and for autox there isn't anything better (besides R compounds of course). I don't autox my Z, but I do run my Integra and I use the Azenis, amazing tire. One thing to note about the chunking, what tire pressure were you running? Chalk the sides of your tires to see how much rollover you are getting and just keep upping the pressure until you aren't grinding off the sides. Also, concentrate on being smooth. That's a huge factor.

There is a 215/45/16 Falken Azenis that although isn't huge, is a great tire and inexpensive as well.

What type of fluid do you have in there? I can't speak from experience on the Datsun side as I haven't experimented with different fluid but on my GSR transmission it is unbeleivably picky about what goes in there. Anything other than Honda MTF or GM Syncromesh and it shifts like shit. Try a good fluid, I am trying Honda MTF in mine next.

I just ordered a set from MSA last week. There are 3 bushings, the one that goes on the end of the shift lever, over the rounded metal end is part# 201121 ($3.18). The other 2 are spacer bushings that go into the hole (one on each side)on the shift lever. #201130 ($3.20 each).

I am looking for a junkyard in the New England area that someone may know of that may have a few Z's I can pick through. If not I am willing to go further, anywhere north of DC then. I am not looking for anything in particular, just a whole bunch of little things (bumpers, bolts, trim pieces, odds and ends, maybe a cylinder head). I have been calling around all morning and no one I have talked to in RI or MA has, or knows, anything. Any contact info would be appreciated.

Update. I checked the distributor, and it appears that the part that is supposed to rotate for the vacuum advance (if the diaphragm was working) was stuck in the middle somewhere so I rotated it back and it appears much happier. Still a bit of smoke when I rev it but not the constant stream. It idles well and no 2000rpm stumble anymore. Much better. Now I will just replace the distributor and the diaphragm and all should be well.

74 260Z. Weber 32/36 DGV's. I just adjusted the timing and the Datsun manual said 8 degrees, but it idled better around 10. It was running decently (stumble around 2000rpm but idled and revved fine) so I replaced the PCV valve, and now it is running rich. Very rich. Large amount of smoke out the tailpipe at idle. Plugging the PCV valve while the engine is running seems to have no effect at all. Other related info: The vacuum advance diaphragm is broken. I pulled the line which leads to the front carb and sucked on it but nothing in the distributor moved. Not sure if this is related to my problem or not. I have read the vacuum advance isn't really necessary so I think not. The rear carburetor has vacuum (attached to the servo diaphragm), but makes a strange sucking noise. I don't know what to think about that one. I tried adjusting the idle mixture screw but nothing helped. I am around 3 turns out right now, so I may need to switch to a smaller jet but it shouldn't be running this rich, should it? Also, the air pump (smog pump) is not attached. Well it's attached but there is no belt turning it. It's been like that for quite some time, should I hook it back up? I haven't driven the car in 4 years, and some generic mechanic installed the carbs and adjusted everything and I am beginning to think he didn't do it correctly. I am trying to figure this all out, so be patient, I am learning. I am also looking for an online vacuum diagram, something doesn't seem right with where these lines are going and I just want to double check everything. Anyone got a link?