TimZ

I'm pretty sure that the Turbonetics center sections are not fitted for banjo fittings. The generally have a 1/8 NPT threaded inlet. You'll probably have to make a new oil line. I'd suggest using a -4AN to 1/8 NPT fitting at the inlet, and use a -4AN teflon lined stainless braided hose. Probably a good idea to used the firebraid insulating cover for the hose, as well.

quote: Originally posted by Havok: If i O-ring the block will that make a difference and/or is it even needed? For head gasket would you recommand i just use stock? or go with the HKS gasket and if i go with the HKS gasket does anyone have the thickness of that? O-ringing the block will not make any difference as far as sizing your pistons goes. When you 'o-ring' the block or head, you cut a groove around each cylinder, into which is fitted a piece of wire, which is used as the o-ring. The idea is that since the wire protrudes above the deck surface, it adds extra 'crush' to the gasket around the cylinder, and very firmly holds it in place. This makes it virtually impossible to blow the head gasket. A fair amount of care should be taken in sizing the groove and the wire, since if it sticks up too high, the part of the head gasket that is supposed to seal the water and oil passages won't be able to seal properly. If you use a stock head gasket, then you should probably o-ring either the head or the block. If you use the HKS (metal) head gasket, you should definitely NOT o-ring the head or block. The HKS gasket will not work with an o-ringed head or block. Either approach should work, the HKS is probably easier. As I recall, it's available in 1mm and 2mm thicknesses, possibly more. [ June 17, 2001: Message edited by: TimZ ]

I followed Pete's lead, and mounted mine in a similar fashion, except I had my bracket welded flush at the bottom of the existing one. I also have the Arizona Z brake setup (sorry Mike , but it's been on there for about 12 years - otherwise, I'd use yours ). I agree with Pete about the cable routing being less than ideal - it has to turn a pretty sharp corner to get oriented properly for the spot caliper's lever, and it does need a fair amount of 'guidance' to keep it from interfering with some of the rotating bits. My biggest fear is that because of the bend it has to take near the caliper, the cable makes contact with the frame before the suspension is bottomed. I am afriad that this is going to lower the life expectancy of the cable - I have been keeping an eye on this, and so far, so good. I tried test mounting the caliper in several other orientations, and maybe I'm mot imaginative enough, but I couldn't find an orientation that gave a better cable routing. [ June 10, 2001: Message edited by: TimZ ]

The only caveat is that the L24 rods need to be the variety with 9mm rod bolts. Otherwise, if you are having the pistons made anyway, then I would definitely go with the L24 rods. There is no advantage in going with the shorter rods, except convenience - like if you already had the pistons for them.

I agree with James on the bore. Here's a link with most of the specs you are asking for. http://www.zcluboftexas.org/tech/l28combo.html You should note that these are nominal specs for a factory fresh block/head. Your 20 year old block may or may not have these specs. If you are spending the cash on forged pistons, it would be a good idea to actually measure the critical specs (deck height, for instance), and design the pistons around those numbers. If you are having pistons custom made anyway, you should consider using the L24 rods - they are longer, and will require a different piston pin height. The longer rods will result in a better rod ratio, which will give you less side loading on the rod, as well as longer dwell time at TDC and BDC (this makes you less sensitive to cam timing).

quote: Originally posted by johnc: FWIW... I feel that the Kumho V700s are closest in feel to my sorely missed Yokohama A008RS2s. The best part is that the Kumhos stick better that the old A8s. ...I'll second that - I've been running V700s for a while now, and am very happy with them. My use is primarily street, with a few autocrosses here and there. I'm guessing that you were shying away from them at first because of the guy on the IZCC list that said that he blistered them after two sessions at the track. As I recall, he said that his were unshaved, which most likely was the problem. If you want to run them on a dry track, get them shaved. [ June 07, 2001: Message edited by: TimZ ]

As far as I know, they are threaded. At least mine are (I'm using an N42 head). You should be able to get the studs from a Nissan Dealer - I got mine from Courtesy Nissan. I used a prevailing torque-style nut on mine ("ovaled"), in an attempt to keep them from backing out - seems to be working so far. You can get these at a decent fastener supplier.

...the more power you have, the quicker they go.

...pardon my ignorance, but cast aluminum on the exhaust? Really? Never heard of such a thing... I wouldn't have thought that the aluminum would hold up to the heat.

Funny you should mention this - I just got it back together and out on the road tonight. As suspected, I had lost a tooth on the mainshaft first gear. Kind of strange - there were some stress cracks on the two adjacent teeth, possibly caused by added stress after the first let go. The missing tooth had just kind of let go - there was no evidence of the gear having been torn off, or anything. Maybe it was just a void in the casting or something...

quote: Originally posted by lonehdrider: Actually, Ford did do a concept vehicle with the V10 quite a long time ago, it was basically a show car though, a two seat indy car (awesome looking as I remember) with a V10 in it. Lone That was the Indigo. I watched them testing it a few years back at Ford's Michigan Proving Grounds. I even got to help push it into the garage - it had about a 500ft turning circle and no reverse gear - took some maneuvering to get it through the door...

That's a Triton-based V10. Ford uses it in the F230/350, and I think in the Excursion. It's based on the Ford 5.4 Triton V8 Mod Motor, so I would say a good guess at length would be 25% longer than the 5.4 Mod motor. Those things are _really_ wide - I'd be more worried about that if you want to fit one in a Z.

quote: Originally posted by Andrew Bayley: Thanks for the offer Tim, I'll have to rain check on the borrowed labor. Unless you want to weld up the muffler on my wife's Escort... Nah, I wouldn't even ask my worst enemy to do that job. -Thanks again guys -Andy If it's off the car, I don't mind - no guarantees if it's all rust, though. If it's on the car - well, that's a different matter...

Sounds like you are getting close. Here's a suggestion - while you are priming the engine before it's first startup, disconnect the oil line at the turbo, and make sure that it's actually getting oil. Also, if you are using AN-style fittings, make absolutely sure that everything has been tightened. It's hard to tell with these fittings visually.

Jeromio is right - if your plug has become carbon fouled, it can definitely wreak havok. What actually happens is that the carbon bonds to the insulator, and creates a short circuit from the center electrode to ground. This makes it pretty much impossible for the plug to generate a spark, since all the energy gets dissipated through the carbon. You do have an option, before ditching the plugs, though. It is possible to clean the plugs once they are fouled. The only effective way to do this that I have found is to use a propane torch (Bernz-o-matic, etc) to burn the carbon off the plug. You have to get the plug tip red hot, until the ceramic insulator starts looking white again, all around the tip. AFAIK, this is the only thing that will remove the carbon deposits - no amount of carb cleaner or solvents will budge it. If you want, bring them by this weekend and I'll clean them for you...

Well, I'll have pretty much that exact setup dynoed in a few weeks, except that I'm 2.8litres, still. I upgraded from a TS04 to the T64 last year, and the TS04 had dynoed at 370 rwhp, and 400 lb-ft. I'm expecting more out of the T64, but I don't want to shoot my mouth off on this forum until I have proof. The T64 is capable of flowing enough air to make about 600hp (flywheel), although I doubt that the L-series engine will be able to take it to the right part of the compressor map to acheive that. As far as low end torque and throttle response, I make about 7 psi by about 3300rpm, 10psi by 4000, and 18psi by 4300. So, it's not the quickest spoolup that you'll ever see, but I find it perfectly acceptable. Throttle response is near instantaneous, as long as you are in the boost making rpm range. If not, then it will seem laggy. The T64 does definitely spool a bit slower than the TS04 did, but not annoyingly so. For the additional capacity, that was a tradeoff I was willing to make. [ May 18, 2001: Message edited by: TimZ ]

Hi Evan... The coating is the blue JetHot 2000 stuff. It's supposed to be good to 2000 degF. One of the fittings is for the exhaust temp probe. The other is a piece of steel tubing that I ran to a fitting mounted at the back of the intake manifold. I can then connect a pressure gauge to the fitting, and measure the exhaust manifold pressure. I have a similar fitting on the downpipe, so that I can check pressures before and after the turbo. I used a piece of schedule 40 steel pipe for the wastegate flange. I had to section, reshape, and re-weld it to make the transition from the oval shaped hole in the manifold to the round shape at the inlet of the wastegate.

Evan... Here are the missing pictures from my part of that post...

quote: Originally posted by lonehdrider: Show me a smooth road, and its probably in another state, Lone I'm pretty sure that Michigan is in the bottom 5 states as far as road quality goes. IF potholes get repaired, it consists of dumping some tar/gravel mix into the hole and relying on traffic driving over it to tamp it down. Unless you've been here, I'm guessing that the road conditions here would be inconceivably bad to most 'outsiders'. In many areas, there is literally no way to drive around the potholes - there is just no clear path. C'mon Andy - back me up here...

I would go with Drax's suggestions, above. It sounds like you're mostly stock, so the 2.25" would probably do just fine, and would be ligher and generally easier to install than the 2.5", too.

quote: Originally posted by TimZ: Not enough? What - were you starting with 10? (Sorry James - couldn't resist...) [ May 14, 2001: Message edited by: TimZ ]

quote: Originally posted by Scottie-GNZ: 300hp!!! I will take it even though it is probably not enough to kick your butt Not enough? What - were you starting with 10?

I checked the service manual, and there is a model number designation for California/non-California models, but it doesn't appear to show up in the VIN, or the ID plate in the engine bay. If it says non-catalyst, it's most likely a non-california car. A pre-muffler was used in place of the cat in these cars. Also, the opening in the gas filler tube will be larger, to accomodate the larger pump nozzles that were used with leaded gas. Another clue - there was a floor temp warning light opposite the low fuel light that was only used with the cats (at least on the '78s). The opening for the light was blanked out on the non-cali cars. [ May 13, 2001: Message edited by: TimZ ]

Yes, I think that system uses a Holley TBI system. Pro-Jection, maybe? You can find more info on the TEC-II, by poking around this site, mostly in the "Ignition and Fuel Delivery" section. Also, here are some good links: http://www.electromotive-inc.com/index.htm http://www.vishnuperformance.com/ http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ElectromotiveTECII [ May 13, 2001: Message edited by: TimZ ] [ May 13, 2001: Message edited by: TimZ ]

No, only the '77 Zs sold in California were sold with cats. The first year for 50-state cats was '79.