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HybridZ

2126

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Posts posted by 2126

  1. Not sure this will help you out any but, I've changed out my stock 12mm studs to 3" long 1/2" (12.7mm) studs to accommdate custom spacers and -35mm offset wheels intended for 12mm studs. the wheels fit over the studs without issue.....however, there is less clearance between the studs and wheel stud holes. The wheels I speak of are manufactured by Aldstadt and are 17"x8" (f) & 17"x9" ® both with -35mm offset.

     

    Tom

  2. Regarding the original post about the McDonalds receipt, does it really matter if it is grammatically correct or not, because most people who eat McDonalds garbage wouldn't know if it was grammatically correct to begin with or can't read anyway! Just an other indication of how intelligence is on the slide. My 2 cents worth!

  3. Interesting post! Regarding a 55 year old guy on a crotch rocket, even though this guy may be a numbskull,......I happen to be 57 years young and just purchased an 09 R1! Mind you, I've been riding for over 30 years, in the dirt, on the street, and held a roadrace licsence for 3 years. However, I would most certainly not advise someone with little or no experience to purchase such a bike as a first bike!!! Shoot, my R1 puts more HP out at the rear wheel (150+) than my 240Z does. Anyway, as we all know, there are far more numbskulls out there than not.

     

    Tom

  4. What has been done successfully is to either fabricate spacers to eliminate the extra tolerance when using 10mm in a carrier designed for 12mm bolts. I may be wrong but, I think your 8mm bolts are actually 10mm. When I installed my Precision Gear LSD unit, I encountered the same question you have asked! Precision Gear's advise was to fab spacers or not. If no spacers are to be used, besure to rotate the ring-gear in the direction it would naturally take when loaded. Be sure to use lok-tite and the proper torque on the ring-gear bolts. There is a write up on this subject in the archives....just search.

     

    Tom

  5. Since my computer doen't allow me to see your picture, I can't identify your 5 spd. However, I've install the close ratio 5 spd from a 1983ZX in my 1970 Z and the shifter will not be centered in the stock 4 spd location without modification to the shifter and a slight trim job at the front of the sheet metal tranny tunnel opening. Basically, I took the stock 5 spd shifter, cut it with a long angle (for maximum welding surface) just above the pivot thru hole, calculated my desired position for the shifter and bent up a 5/8" heavy wall piece of 4130 tubing and welded it in place. It turned out perfectly and have had no issues in 7 years of use. I did have to do some custom sheet metal fabrication so the inner shifter boot would work....! Hope this help you out a little!!

     

    Tom

  6. Regarding the brass trigger guard, it is also possible it is an aftermarket guard as they were available at that time. One of my old shooting buddies has the same revolver only with a 7" barrel. He purchased and installed a brass trigger guard. It's certainly in the $400.00 + range.

     

    Tom

  7. Did anyone just watch the table saw that turns off if you touch the blade. Senses a current to the blade from your finger and stops it pretty much instantly. They said something like 1000 g's.... the inventor even touched it himself.

     

    Was that not impressive????? Of course he didn't jam his finger into the blade, which is most likely the case when an accident takes place but, a very impressive invention to say the least. This is a really good show....especially if your a techie kind of guy!

     

    Tom

  8. I have a set of the Ground Control bolt on camber plates on my 240Z.....nice units but, adjustment is limited to a select set of threaded bolt holes and thats the extent of camber adjustment. If you don't mind cutting and welding on your chassis, the variable adjustment style camber plates are certainly the way to go!

     

    Tom

  9. For what its worth......years ago when I was involved with building experimental aircraft, we had to fabricate a bubble type canopy for a half sized WWII German FW190. What we did to heat the lexan (1/4" thick) sheet was to slowly heat it in a bath of peanut oil. The sheet was captivated via a framework and when the lexan sheet was in the right condition, we pulled the lexan sheet/framework out of the peanut oil bath and then over the canopy form. Worked out beautifully and the clearity of the lexan was perfect. Hope this helps to some degree.

     

    Tom

  10. Seems to me the only alternative is........you'll be moving out! I understand the two wheeled addiction, as I'm a motorcyclist myself and can get a bit antsey when I haven't riden in a while. Like the old saying goes......"A mans gotta do what a mans gotta do!!!"

     

    Tom

  11. As I recall, when I swapped in an R200/drive axles, from a 280ZX, into my 1970 Z, the right side drive axle had to be shortened approximately 0.50", otherwise a binding situation would occur when the drive axle was perpendicular to the diff. Just my 2 cents worth.

     

    Tom

  12. Most low cost bandsaws don't have a slow enough speed or power for cutting SS. Generally speaking, SS requires slow speed and high feed rate, otherwise the SS will heat up and harden itself....making it even harder to cut. Keep the material and tool cool, and SS cuts pretty easy.

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