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HybridZ

2126

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Posts posted by 2126

    Wheel Show! Post your pics of you wheels

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Wheel/tire size details for the guys that requested! The wheels are manufactured by Altstadt....not sure of the model but, I've never seen another set of 3pc Altstadt's like these! The fronts are 17"x 8" and the rears are 17"x 9". Tires...215-40 x 17 front, 235-40 x 17 rear. I have coilovers, sectioned struts, and camber plares but have no body mods. At the ride height I'm at (just under 4") the rears are pretty tight on clearance but no interference issues...the front have no clearance issue either. The offset on the wheels are 35mm and required me to fab up custom spacer. I've gone to 3" long MOROSO 1/2" studs so the spacers are sandwiched between the hubs and wheels. Hope this is what you guys were asking for?

     

    Tom

    Crossbreed?

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Looks as good, if not better, than most of the tail light transplants I've seen! Nice work! But to answer your original question about what you get when you mix the two........a Ztang of course!

    I won a sound off today!!

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    So today there was a MECA sound competion in my area. I took the Altima down to see what I could do and ended up winning the street class 3 (1201-2000watt) ended up putting down 135.9dB, I think theres still room for improvement. I didnt enter the sound qualty comp. due to the car not being finished( plus I didnt have the extra money for entry). But funny thing is i wasnt even going to enter and had left. Turned it up and my buddy said we should go back and enter, so I did and won and made a great day for us!!

     

     

     

    SAY WHAT???? I CAN'T HEAR YOU!!!!

    Identifying Close ratio tranny

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    The speedO gear color will indicate what diffy gear it was mated with however, the only way I know to I.D. a close ratio unit is to check the tranny p/n and cross reference it against the models that came with the close ratio tranny....280ZX 1983, 1984, & 1985!!!? Sorry I couldn't be of further assistance!

     

    Tom

    Now I can screw up my alignment like the best!

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Just a heads-up for you guys using Hiem joints. Available are washer assemblies that have an O.D. style lip seal, intended for Hiem joint, to keep the wet and crud out of the pivot ball area. They basically install on either side of the Hiem. A company named AFCO sells these puppies. They supply alot of sprint car and modified car guys. Check out their website....good folks to deal with also!

     

    Tom

    Update on #248

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Wouldn't it be more effective to have the roll hoop braces go directly to the strut towers, rather than the bar that joins the strut towers?

     

    I bet the guys at classiczcar.com are cringing at what you are doing to #248 :)

     

     

    That's why there is a HYBRIDZ!!!!

     

    Tom

    I Have "THE HOOD"

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    I'm sorry guys but, the quality of the work on that hood just plain sucks!!!! I can't imagine anyone installing such a poorly done hood on their Z and be proud of it..............sorry for my un-candy coated responce!!!!!!!!!!

    Seats: shophyperformance

    in Interior

    Posted

    has anyone had any luck installing seats from this shop? if so which ones and how did you make it fit?

     

    I'm looking at these two:

    http://www.shophyperformance.com/cgi-bin/hp/001300.html

    and

    http://www.shophyperformance.com/cgi-bin/hp/001177.html

     

    mostly what I'm worried about is the dimensions and how high up it'll put me. (6'4") I have absolutely no problems with reclining back a little, I dont need to be sitting up like a straightedge to perform well.

    IF someone has the time/ability to determine if itll fit or what kind of modifications I'll have to do to make it work, that would be just great.

     

    Or if you have suggestions for a similar grey on black (mostly grey) cool-looking seat like these, I am wide open to suggestions.

     

    I have personally gone through this delema myself and I'm only 5' 11". What I discovered and what seems to be the most important issue is the design of the seat....let me explain. Many of the aftermarket seats have a shell that supports the seat cuchions. This style seat, if mounted to the stock seat mounts (240, 260, 280) will raise you up and inch or more, depending if you install sliders or not. However, seats that have a similar design to stock seats, actual butt cushions that are suspended via straps, allow you to sit lower. A couple of seats you may want to look at are the entry level race seats by either SPARCO or MOMO. They are priced at around $200.00 each and are fixed (do not recline). I have the SPARCO "Sprint" seats in my 240, without any sliders, mouted directly to the stock seat mounting locations and have more than sufficient head room....even with a helmet on. Hope this info helps some!

    Pilot Bushing hole too big

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    I double checked the crank and both spacers are off. Sombody simply bored the end of the crank for some unknown reason. I've located a bronze bushing with a larger O.D. and will turn it down to fit. Thanks for your help though!!

     

    Just a thought but, have you considered using oil-lite bronze. Its porous and impregnated with lube. Kinda tough on milling bits but the fact that it lubricates itself is really nice!

     

    Tom

    Pre Preg carbon fiber

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    I'm by no means an expert but, I've helped a good friend of mine fabricate CF parts for his 36' racing cat (sail boat). The specific parts are called dagger boards and see pretty high loads while under way. The dagger boards have survived over a couple of seasons of racing without failure. We used pre-preg and vacuum bagged the assemblies. We did not use or have access to an autoclave. I believe the autoclave provides quicker and better controlled curing, resulting in better integrity to the parts.......we had no access to an autoclave and couldn't have afforded it even if we did find one. However, it is important to achieve total saturation and the elimination of excess resin for a sound part. Just my 2 cents worth!

     

    Tom

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