2126
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Posts posted by 2126
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John,
Unless you are into getting covered in black crud and are willing to put in the effort it takes to get your parts all shinny, then I would suggest taking them to a shop that polishes aluminum parts. They typically know what they're doing and they can have it done way faster than you will. When I got my parts back I was afraid to touch them they looked so good!!!Cost??? Well, in my case, I had my balance tube, both intakes runners, and cam cover done for $125.00 Don't get me wrong here, I prefer to do my own work on my Z but sometimes you have to draw the line between common sense and ego.
Just one man's opinion,
Tom
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Thanks for the insight on your rollbar and also on Branden's. I'm running a set of Sparco seats that do not recline, so that's not an issue for me. I think either of the two designs would suit my purpose just fine. If you have information regarding a price and availability, it would be sincerely appreciated. I will search for Branden's info too!
Thanks again,
Tom
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74-5.0L-Z,
First off, thanks for your prompt reply. The rollbar design, in the photo you provided in your post, looks very good and I would be interested in it as well. However, the rollbar on page 3 of our gallery includes supports that rum from each side of the hoop down to the center tunnel, just in front of where the rear interior deck begins. Is this in fact one of yours 74-5.0L-Z? Anyway, nice work. My application for the rollbar is for a street car Z, with multiple suspension modifications and only a small amount of engine mods. I would just feel much better with a nice rollbar...if you know what I mean..............and I think you do!
2126
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Hey guys, does anyone know the source or who the fabricator is for the half cage, shown in our gallery on page 3. The cage looks like a well thought out design and it doesn't attach to the wheel well sheetmetal. I would be very interested in purchasing a unit like this for my 1970 240Z. Can you help me out?
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The shear fact and content of your question indicates that you should take the car to a profesional mechanic and have the entire system inspected and repaired as required!!!! Otherwise you may become a candidate for a Darwin Award.
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Dave,
You should have no problem with your choice if you select a wheel with the correct offset/backspacing. I've got 235-40x17 in the rear of my 1970, however they are on 9" wide wheels, with sectioned struts and coilovers.
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One thing I did to facilitate easier "heel/toe" manuvers was by installing a set of Sparco alloy pedals. Of course any good pedal supplier will due! It will provide you a little latitude in positioning them for easiers pedal access. For instance.....I mounted the throttle pedal so it has a slight tilt (the bottom of the pedal) toward the brake pedal. So now I don't have to move my heel as far to blip the throttle. Some of the after market pedals actually have tabs at the bottom of the throttle pedal that protrude toward the brake pedal. Anywho, I think that positionong the pedals, to your liking, is a helpful thing to do.
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Cablesvr,
I have actually done the set-up you are talking about to my 1970 (see 240ZX photo gallery @ Classic Zcar Club site). I used the Ground Control set-up but it doesn't matter who's coilover kit you use as they are generally the same. When I discussed my plans with Ground Control, they advised me to shorten my struts by 1 1/2". They also sold me the correct inserts as well. They were quit helpful. Also, if you intend to run 8" or 9" wide 17's in the rear you will need 8" (free length) springs. I also installed the 1" bumpsteer spacers which basically position the transverse link near the original position (a good thing!) Also, you may want to concider adjustable camber plates so you can adjust in the correct camber. (If you go low without camber adjustment capability, you will end up with way too much negative camber). I run my Z on th street so I used 200 lbs. springs in the front with a 25mm sway bar and 275 lbs. springs in the rear with a 19mm sway bar. Inserts are Tokico non-adjustables. The adjustable shock do however provide you with better set-up options but they do cost more. Hope this info helps out.
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I have to concour with Mike about the GC coilover set-up. I installed them on my 1970 and when I had questions I received good info back from their customer service. One good tip I can offer up is.....if you intend to use 8" or 9" wide 17's at the rear, you will need to use an 8" (free length)springs instead of the standard issue 10" springs. I encountered this when I was in the process of setting up my ride height. With the 10" springs, the locking ring was running into the tire/wheel upon getting the car to it's appropriate lowered position. Good thing the springs are pretty in-expensive.
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Thanks for the quit responce Savage42. The guy who has the unit says it's a gear type like the Thorsen units, not a clutch or viscous tpye. What do ya think.....
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Does anyone have information on a NISMO SSS LSD carrier...specifically, will it work in an R200 (3.90) out of an 1981 to 1983 280ZX, how does it's performance compare with the clutch type and od viscous units, and what do they cost used in good condition? Please help out a newbie to the site.
Any tips for polishing intake manifold
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Oh! I forgot to mention I did do the work of filing, sanding, filing, sanding, etc. However, I did discover that the process of buffing out the parts will remove more of the small inperfections than I had first thought. So, talk with the polishing shop first, so you don't spend an excessive amount of time filing , sanding, filing, sanding.
Tom