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Silent

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Posts posted by Silent

  1. my thinking is this. from the track to the street my su's with sm needles are just fine, they seem to pull better then they should {tuning}.

     

    case in point

     

    a friend of mine has 45's on his 240z with a 3.0 rebello motor {weber carbs}

    mine, 280z, 3.1 with su's

     

    he has head work, more agressive cam and such. at the 1000 ft mark on a track he only has a fender on me. close r/t's, close to the same speed all the way down till that last few feet where i know im lacking power due to head work, it's can't flow. the carbs are not the problem, they can be tweaked on and made to run a lot better.

     

    my first choice would be su's

    second would be triples

    last and rarely thought about would be a 4 barrel

  2. silent' date='

     

    feel free to email me with any questions on the Mikuni setup. they are very prone to underhood heat and it really effects the way they are tuned. THEY DO NOT LIKE ANY HEAT ON OR NEAR THEM!

     

    even a cermaic coated header gives off too much heat for them and you will also need a heat shield or header blanket between the carbs/intake and header.[/quote']

     

     

    i'll keep that in mind

    i'll be sure to contact you when i get ready to do the drastic make over this summer

  3. here in kansas city we have two mustang dyno's

    we also have 3-4 dynojets

     

    i have gone from a dyno jet where my z did a 192 rwhp, to a mustang dyno where it did 162

     

    now explain to me why this happened?

     

    i got it, the mustang puts more of a load on the car

     

    this was all done in ONE day, so the variables were not a factor. exact same tune, same timing advance, everything.

     

    there is a difference. also if the weight of the car is put in wrong, on a mustang it will kill the hp and raise tq. played around a bit on a mustang to see what would happen

     

    my car weighs 2576 on a cat scale.

    mustang has it at 3k lbs

    144 hp

    225 ft lbs

    ummm, nope!

     

     

    Brian, i am following your posts here due to me thinking of getting mikuni's here shortly, and you're only .1 liter larger then me on engine size. it's giving me a base line to go off of

  4. anybody know if a 3.1L with SU's, Lseries motor with 10.5:1 compression will run on pump gas for a daily driver. Its the motor in the classified section ($3500) right now? thanks, JessZ

     

     

    it's peachy on pump gas bub!

    i don't like running pump gas in it due to the huge different in power vs race gas

  5. i am also cleaning up my bay.. today i started in on rust in the bay and under the car... this is a pain w/o a rotiserie (i cant spell i know) lol.. i have 4x4's that are 8ft above ground 4 ft below w/85lbs of concrete in each hole and 2 braces on each side... looks like an upside down U with braces... that is my engine hoist... well today it became my car hoist.. lol connected it to my front brace that the engine connects too.. lifted the front end all the way up (well far as it would let me w/o the back getting bent) it works ok i guess... could be better.. but a rust free Z is the BEST. i switched my EFI to 240 roundtop SU's .. would a stock fuel pump be best? also.. has anyone tried that stuff that claims to turn rust into grey primer? wally world sells it... wondering if it works.

    ditch the stock efi pump

    run a pump that can handle at least 90 gph, or more.

    i ran a dead head holley red on my, and a holley regulator at 4 psi, or 4.25 depending on my mood and gas.

    it has 72 240 3 screws.

  6. the maxima has a built trans and its geared to run just above 200 mph.

     

    will the 240z body be able to take this kind of power? what needs to be done to it take the additional wieght?

     

    so should i buy a z32 or z33 trans to fit with a r200 or r230 diff? also is the nismo diff or kaaz diff better? i am also going to need a custom driveshaft built.

     

    thanks for the info so far and keep it coming.

     

    i am in the north burbs to. vernon hills.

     

    the bad thing is., i have been around the maxima world for about 10 years now.

    i had a 92 se. "mildly" modded {ok that was sarcasim}

    what was done to the tranny.

    if you're willing to give away that info you can be of GREAT help to maxima.org

     

    id do the z32 5spd. with a nismo lsd.

     

    you'd have to do all sorts of things just shy of a tube framed car. cage, subframes, front rail stiffening. so on and so forth. id imagine you have about 5-8k in just chassis work alone

  7. the chevy tranny is a 3 spd auto

    th350

    th400

    im going to do the 400 and seveely build it.

     

    there is a few things i didn't list on the motor side that goes with it

    EVERYTHING needed to drop it in, turn key and go spank some people.

     

    im in kansas city missouri. so yep, shipping is gonna cost ya.

    im not fully set on price yet. i have over 3500 in everything i have done to it.

     

    as the more i dig into the rb swap the more i want to do it. and it seems people make it out harder then it actually is.

    the motor was pulled from a friend of mines r33 gtr, sat for a few months, now has a ful tilt jun motor in it.

    im not worried about sensors, or misc parts. i have connections in cali for those parts.

     

    just need to get the motor from cali to hear so i can start on it!

  8. see, the thing being, i can get the parts for next to nothing

    the motor im getting is free, doing a fresh rebuild on it.

    motor mounts are free

    oil pan is being custom made, for the cost of the supplies.

    cv axle swap in the rear is damn near free.

     

    the only thing i can forsee costing me any money is the hks turbo's injectors, and some other piddly things here and there.

     

    this is why im stuck on what to do. i love the 3.1, but my lust for 600 rwhp and silly 1/4 mile times still lingers.

     

    now you see the delima

  9. as it sits now, i have a 3.1 liter in my 76 280z.

    su's blah blah

    put down 192 rwhp

     

    now. good motor and all, strong, all i have left is head work and such.

    but my demila is this

     

    i was offered a rb26dett.

    for free.

    with turbo's, everything, minus harness.

     

    my thoughts,

    sell 3.1 and 5 spd

    do rb swap with 350 trans and some other goodies here and there.

    power fc system with the maps i need fo the turbo set up.

     

    i love my 3.1 motor, but the silly hp is starting to bit me again. and there isn;t much left i can do to the 3.1 to get where i want to be.

     

    whats the suggestions from the resident crew of hybrid nuts?!?!

  10. the cam in the car isn't stock its power band runs from about 2200 to 6k.

     

    knowing the person who got the cam its a crane from victoria british. thats my best guess, i want a cam in the car that i know what it is.

     

    the motor in the car had 250miles on it when i got it. so as far as finding out true c/r right now. im at a loss as to it. it does have an n47 head on it.

     

     

    OH something else. where could i get some bigger valves at?

     

    if im going to build it, im going to build it once.

     

    no comment on the 480 lift cam?

  11. If your compression test is 165lbs. warm, and a stock cam, you either don't have 10.0:1 c.r. or you have holes in the pistons. DAW

     

    it's not a stock cam right now. im looking for something bigger.

     

    me personally, i was thinking of the msa/schnider cam 480 lift jobby. still half ass streetable and such.

  12. i know this has been beat to death. but search has helped me none thus far.

     

    my set up is this

    3.1 stroker n42 block

    su carbs w/sm needles

    msd 6al

    blaster 2 coil

    carter fuel pump, holley fpr.

     

    compression is believe is around 10:2.1 right now. did a comp test and it came out 165 across the board. so i could be way off.

     

    im getting ready to have the head ported and polished {an e88}.

     

    putting bigger valves in it, and the whole 9 yards.

     

     

    what i want to do is this, it has to be some what streetable, i cruize around town at 3k rpms. i don't plan on running webbers on the car {i like easy tuning} but i do plan on boring the su's out to 50 mm

     

    so my guess would be an rpm range of 2500 to 7k? the bottom end has been balanced.

     

    the cam is what im trying to figure out. i haven't found anything yet that falls into this range or is close to it

     

    in the end im looking for about 10:5.1 c/r. id like to see above 230 to the wheels

     

    any help would be apprecitated!!!!

     

    :D

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