Silent

whats wrong with hypereutectic? other than the dislike of nitrous

i have pretty much given up on trying to sell the motor. most likely will end up being stripped and scrapped.

i had that happen to my 3.1. i pulled the motor, took it all apart. haven't touched it since. hell i even tried to sell the damn thing, and no one wants it

speed density cars don't change that much in terms of dyno ar vs street. mas air cars freak. at least my ss does. my street afr is wildly different than dyno afr. i usually spend about 3-4 hours on the dyno at a time with my car. i like to test different things. dial in the afr, then tweak the timing down low. up top. so on and so forth. now. with that mindless banter being said. every engine behaves differently. every engine will like something different. your car may make peak hp at 12.8 vs someone else's at 13.4. same thing would go for torque. too many variables. hence why a dyno is useful. same thing goes for timing as well. some cars like a lot, some like a little. this is where egt's come into play. sort of. cram as many fans in front of that car as you can. dyno numbers vs street numbers vary. depending on the car, vary greatly.

clutch isn't slipping. yet. it's just a matter of time. aftermarket is pretty good for the cobalts. depending on which model you have. the clutch world is pretty tricky on these. there is a wide variety of clutches and flywheels out there for them. it's just a matter of one that will release at 7800 rpms vs trying to eat a roll pin or trans in the process. exedy hyper single is what im going for. i tried to get them to send me a twin disk for testing. but gm racing beat me to it yepo the 342hp is to the front tires. i have to pull the valve cover tonight and see how the gm racing cams are wearing in

the clutch is the weak point now. so im pretty much just being nice to it till i can afford the clutch setup for it that will hold it. however, it did dyno 342 fwhp this weekend. the car is an 07 cobalt ss

tried two brand new ones. same outcome. my guess is the alternator. i never put my gm one wire on, nor the mount to hold it.

best pass on the other blower with a slipping clutch was 13.3 @ 109. 2.2 short time. no burn outs. it has a hard enough time hooking at 60mph as it is with good tires on it!

newp, the only thing from gm racing is the cams i have in it which are rare in themselves. i wanted over 300 whp, well, i did that on the stock blower it was just way too touchy on weather. this blower flat out gets it on this car.

harrop htv1320 it's a quick lil bastard now compared to what it was. basically a shell using eaton tvs rotors wheeeeeeeeeeeee

jump on the hptuners forum and check with them about the coils, and the vvt

so, i had an issue with a burnt connector. tested the white with red tracer wire that was not so nicely smoking from under the radio. pull the fuse box out, check it for burned connections. newp, looks brand new. cut off some of the electrical tape and trace back a bit. the wire is perfect in condition. no burned spots or anything, however the once white connector is now insulating the spade connectors quite nicely. pulled this connection apart, got the ole multimeter out and tested the wires. this is where it gets stupid. one side at idle 12.20 other side. 25+ volts. wtf?!?! no one it tried to burn to the ground. revved the car up, volts spiked upwards of 52 volts, just one this one wire. really odd

ya know. i could be talked out of the 3.1 short block i have sitting collecting dust.

i love how people are stuck on equal length. care to explain why they thought it would be a brilliant idea to stick the wastegate all the way down there? hmmmmmmmm?

not all efi tb's are closed at idle, or have an IAC valve. damn dbw crap

the lovely sounds that would erupt at the crack of the throttle on a warm spring morning would bring all the motor heads outside in their robes to try and figure out where the glorious sounds just came from. id buy em

i never understood the difference between the series 1 dash vs the 71 and later dashes ::shrugs::

projection is crude at best. it's more or less a replacement for the chevy tbi trucks from 87-96. some people think that tbi is a good idea. in theory it works well. in reality it has big draw backs in the end. i would honestly ditch the projection, megasquirt it using turbo z parts. you can use the same turbo if so desired. since you already have the efi pump in there with the projection kit. you're more or else well on your way. just my two pennies. im most likely out in left field on this

there is a temperature difference in the core itself. the same rule of heat rising still applies. just not to the degree that one would think.

christ those are expensive

yulp. every little bit helps

the diaphram in the booster itself?

sooooooooo whats on the blue one?

new check valve. has pedal pressure. still has to be on the floor to stop the damn thing. no air in the lines. power bleed the master a bit. ran out of fluid. so that maybe the issue. it's a bit better, just not where it should be in terms of pedal travel.

z-therapy. or a lot of time and a crap ton of drill bits.