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HybridZ

Silent

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Posts posted by Silent

  1. I wished you lived by me so we could give the out of the hole stop light to stop light a try. we come out of the hole at 6K and there is no lagging period.

     

     

    gimme some drag radials and i'll be right there with ya!!!

     

    ignore the bottle in the trunk, it's for looks i swear ;)

  2. My experience vs a friends nicely built cammed L28 with SU's is different. From a stop' date=' I can blow her doors off. From a ~60 mph roll, I can blow her doors off. The only time she stands a chance is if I slow down in any given gear to say 2000 rpm then floor it. That's when my car bogs down. If I downshift, I'm gone. You don't have to drive hers "on the pipe" though, which is why I would say that the SU's are a better street carb.

     

    I've found that most of the people who drive triples on the street don't know what the hell they're doing. If you want to see some properly tuned triples, go to a racetrack. But those guys could give a crap about drag racing, and that's why, IMO, the triples get the bad rap. The difference between the two is freakin unbelievable, but I think I'm done trying to convince you guys. If only Norm would pony up for some 44's and tune them correctly... then you'd understand...[/quote']

     

     

    i fully understand the difference in the two, but im a cheap guy. so thats my reasoning.

     

    i myself, plan on doing some big boy su's to see how far i can get with those, then switching over to triples to see how much farther i can go with that. with the su's on my car now, with the state they are in. it's not the greatest street car, it has it's issues, but you learn to live with them.

    from 3500-6200 it pulls hard for what it is. runs with TT z32's {stage 2-3} on a high way run.

    so, it's not like people don't understand, they just want to debate about it.

     

    who knows

    why not get all the su vs triple guys together in a race. and see what happens

    drag, road race, auto-x and dyno

  3. lets put it like this, both motors with good builds, nothing extreme, stop light to stop light, the su car will win. i have proven this time and time again here against another z guy with a rebello 3 liter and triples. and me witha 3.1 and su's

    he has a steeper gear 4.36 vs my 3.90, same tranny, he puts down more power, but i get out on him about a car, and he does not start to come around me till about the 1000 ft mark at the track.

     

    on the street, in a span of maybe 300 ft, light to light, i get him every time, BUT on the highway in excess of 90 mph, he creeps away from me.

     

    he put down 230 rwhp

    me? varies, last tim ei dynoed it was 163 hp with a flat cam, and he STILL doesn't walk all over me.

     

    so it all depends on what the end user wants to do with the car.

     

     

    btw, my su's with shaved throttle shafts, 260 spacers, and shaved jet bridge are the mods i did. him, full build, 45mm webbers

  4. Thanks for the delco part number and website reference- that really helped out' date=' and I'm going after work to take a peek at a unit.

     

    Now that grounding wire-- there's a 7-8mm bolt out put to the rear of the alternator casing which is supposed to be connected to ground. Whats a suitable gauge wire for an alternator ground for this 94 amp deal?

     

    Thanks again![/quote']

     

    depends on how much power drain you have

     

     

    im runnin a full system, and two fuel systems, and have an 8 gauge ground on a 1 wire alt.

     

    so far it pulls 14 volts at 1200 rpms, with system goin.

     

    with lights and system, it pulls about 13.4.

    at idle is a different story

  5. im stickin with su's because ima simple kinda guy. im searchin for a decent set of jag su's now. im not in the mood at this point to drop 800 bucks on a set of prepped rebello su's for my car.

     

    i love the idea of triples, but spending 600 bucks in jets, 1200 bucks in carbs. almost 2 grand into the fuel side of it all. so i don't have that extra 15 hp from triples. i can live with that. as far as not having any top end from su's? um, no.

  6. alright, got all my gauges in, but my speedo, still trying to figure out how to do that without spending 100 bucks.

     

    anwyays, the fuel level gauge, when i got the gage it had some sort of resistor on the back of it. no biggie, hoked the wires up, gauge no movey. alright, so i took the resistor off. gauge moves, gauge moves to 3/4, then moves to full. now i know for a fact i had half a tank in the car before i started this.

     

    the yellow wire on the back of the stock gauge is the wire i used for the sending unit in the tank, "said unit on the back of thes tock gauge, so i gave it a shot"

     

    now, do i need to hook that resistor up? for the simple fact if i take a corner, IE right had turn, the gauge drops really fast to half, where ina sense is supposed to be, or left hand it jumps over full.

     

    the gauge is a 73-10 gauge {closest to dastun}

     

    did a search, and came up with autmoeter crap. called a buddy of mine who has a fuel level gauge from the same company, but his didn't have a resistor.

     

    orrrrrrrrrrr

    could i vari the voltage going from the gauge to the sendor with a variblae resistence dealy bob {poteniaometer, yes i suck at big words}

     

    all my other gauges read fast and damn accurate {tach is great!}

     

    im not looking forward to tearing my dash apart again to fix the gauge, but if it needs that resistor. im willing to do it. and i understand that it will be an 1/8th of a tank off in reading. no big deal.

     

     

     

    HELP!!!!!

  7. Okay, I have my new motor in... and it hits me, "do I really want to deal with this again?" I just put together a F54/P90 combo withthe head shaved & shimed, 480/274 cam, tripple dellortos, and I just lost interest. I'm seriously thinking about converting to a SBC. I've been fighting this decision for the last 8 years and I think I finally lost. I think it's because I have to look at my boss' 700hp procharged nova every day.

     

     

    ehhh, for nostalgia purposes i would

     

    a 700 hp nova is effin great for bustin buns in a straight line, but when it turns, thats where it falls on it's face, and the driver of the z car goes screamin by.

     

    or you could sell me the carbs

     

    either one

    lol

  8. Bryan' date='

    Your cylinder head will be built with making power as the primary goal, nothing will be done on your head for the sake of making it pretty like the polished head. That pretty foo-foo polishing work gets farmed out.

    Let me know what you’re thinking. I may go pick up those P-79 heads later this week as well.[/quote']

     

     

    if i want pretty, i'll sit there with a dremel and an asslod of free time.

    but power is my main concern, as to why im doing what im doing.

     

    how late do you work? hit me up in a PM, and well get some crap worked out. so on and so forth

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