RickB
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Posts posted by RickB
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quote:
Originally posted by bubafett:I want to try the gas too afer I had maxed out on my regular motor. I may have done that. I feel that my engine is up to the task with a 4 bolt main, 6 inch eagle rods and JE flat tops, block has been o ringed.>you certainly have some stout parts so you are good to go (fast) in that area...>Now a few questions for the experienced...How much timing retard do you need to run?>that would depend primarily on the "shot" of juice along with your compression ratio. Assuming you run 36 degrees total without getting knock then you should be able to safely handle a 125 shot w/o taking timing out.Each jet change from there you can take about 2 degrees out>Should you change camshafts to somthing with a little more exaust duration to help bleed off a little cylinder pressure. Or would switching to 1.6 rockers on the exaust side do the same trick?>you can use "nitrous grinds" or keep your car thumping like it is. The juice will still hit hard. You just may not optimize with the squeeze on.I have used 1.6 rockers on the exhaust side as you stated in the past.>What about torq converter? I have heard that one with anti ballooning plates was required. I dont even know what this is.>that is primarily to handle the extra (and almost instant!) power of the nitrous. With the lightweight of a Z car you "should" be OK without the "nitrous" convertor. I have never used one specifically built for nitrous though i have purposely used rather tight convertors to take advantage of the superior torque of the nitrous.>If my car runs low 12 at 113-114 with a best of 11.95. on moter what should I expect with the gas?
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a simple small solenoid 125hp shot should net you 6/10's or maybe more. Assuming you have the gearing for it your mph should increase 6+mph. I AM BEING CONSERVATIVE
>
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As BLK stated yes, thge Mustang guys do tend to experience flex and my brother was able to stop the flex by fabbing his own additional bracket.
Check, double check and then check again your alignment. Have you run this set up for a while???
Lastly, yes there is a difference in belts! I for one do not like cogged belts. In my experience with high revving small blocks i had one engine (383) that was prone to throwing the belt at high r's. It was "twisting" and then pitching.
An old timer suggested I use a Motorcraft belt cause they are laminated. It worked!!! No other belts worked on the stock pulleys with that engine. That motor now has a deep pulley syatem on it and my cousin usues whatever belt with no probs...
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BTW, a 400SB 2 bolt block has splayed caps/bolts and is arguably as strong as the 2 bolts.
Feeble....your learning, that's cool. As stated externally the block is the same and will work fine.
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Oh yeah...one more thing.
On compression, you can ran high compression ratios but be aware that you will need to safegaurd against detonation.
I run pump gas on this engine as it is a low comp motor that doesn't ping and knock on todays gas.
The Nova i had I could run the 1st stage (125hp) on pump gas but i wasn't willing to risk the 2nd stage (250hp) without good fuel. It was close to 11 to 1 but had good flame travel tendencies with a flat top motor.
Good fuel pressure along with adequate volume AND no detonation and you can run a fairly substantial shot!
If you have these two things covered and something else lets go then you really can't blame the nitrous.
[ July 07, 2001: Message edited by: RickB ]
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I've run 125 (PowerShot) on nearly stock engines with great results.
Currently a 100 shot dropkicks my Z from a 12.90@107 to a 11.75@116.
I prefer NOS cause i have a solenoid still working fine with only one rebuild from a USED(!) system i bought in 81'!!!! (Still used on the car i sold my cousin (low 10's).
Not that i recommend it but I have run the big jets in a Cheater system (200 to 250 shot) on a cast piston motor without hurting it. The key you ask??? DO NOT RUN LEAN! I had a good fuel delivery system.
Typical improvements i have gained over the years...
V8 Vega 13.0 to a 11.61@116
69' Chevy truck low 14's to 13.0
74' Nova 12.17 to 10.87
66' Chevy II 10.50's to high 9's.
87' Turbo Regal 12.23 to 11.77.
I good system would be a NOS Super Powershot to cut your teeth on. Start with the smaller jetting and work up watching the plugs and fuel pressure.
Or if you build a stout one gp directly to a Cheater and start with the smaller jets.
Have fun
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Bueno!!!
Welcome to the club...
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My .02 cents...
I sure like the sound of the two Dyno Max Super Turbo's. Assuming there top o the line muff has a reasonable db as well...go for it!
You can barely tell i have a V8 unless you really pay attention.
I get people craning there necks out there SUV windows asking me if it's a V8 and then they pant and lust after the car...
Have fun...oh, and Mike (ZFAN) and Myron have both heard my car.
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Hey HybridZ'ers,
I have located a set of 15" mesh type rims (like on a Buick GNX) for my Z thorugh a friend. 100$ for all four!!!
Any suggestions for tire sizes are appreciated. I will require drag radials in the back. I am leaning towrds a 225/50/15 BFG DR out back?
I had given some thought to a 235/60/15 BFG also, maybe too tall?
BTW, I currently use a 205/55/14 Nitto DR out back that launches well but...run's out of RPM on the big end of the 1/4 on the juice...
Help please...thanks in advance.
[ April 30, 2001: Message edited by: RickB ]
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I wasn't inferring that MSA had done anything wrong. They have given me a return authorization and that is all i could have expected.
All i was really wondering was if anyone else had this problem with these mirrors.
Thanks guys...
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280V8
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Check this out...I bought some of the turbo mirrors for my Z last November from MSA. Last weekend while trailering the car to a race in East Texas I discover that the glass in both of them are gone, out on the highway somewhere??? Bummer!
They were attached with two pieces of double sided tape.
Now, I have to return them to MSA and waith while they send them to the distributor. That's all i can expect but I drive the car a lot and will miss having mirrors.
MSA asked if it was hot or something. I told him it was April???
Any experience with this folks??
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280V8
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Cool Paul...I would like to add a strut bar to my Ram Air Box equipped Z. Looks like I'll have to reconsider it along the lines of Mikelly's suggestions.
Have fun!
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280V8
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Cool Paul...I would like to add a strut bar to my Ram Air Box equipped Z. Looks like I'll have to reconsider it along the lines of Mikelly's suggestions.
Have fun!
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It made an angry "POP"...then that was it.
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280V8
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Uh yeah...I was standing right besode the Motorplex retaining wall when it "went".
It wasn't until later that i got to see it in the pits. Looked like a shotgun had blasted through the hood!
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280V8
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thanks Desert Bob (cool handle...)
RickB
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Man...you guys are cool! Those are great suggestions (why didn't i think of that?).
remember folks, this was written (and performed) by a first time amateur!
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280V8
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quote:
Originally posted by Ross C:Originally posted by RickB:I assume you removed all plugs to make rotation easy? trans in neutral I guess? How does one rotate the crank at this time? from leverage on front crank pulley by hand/ratchet?No, I didn't remove any plugs. Trans doesn't have to be in neutral with a torque converter. And, I used a flywheel "turner". It's kind of a spanner wrench that grips the flywheel teeth. These are good questions...7. First I loosened all caps so the crank could "sag" a bit. Then I used a combination of the above mentioned screwdriver and a hard slender piece of plastic I borrowed from a trimmer (for working with glass) to rotate each bearing out.Then did you remove the main's one at a time? (or can bearings be slid out of them 'loosened'? I assume removed and this should be done one at at time to help ensure crank aligment is best kept as per original?I loosened all the mains and then removed them one at a time, replaced the bearings and hand snugged. Then I torqued them all to spec.Thanks for a great post that makes me feel better knowing it's not the end of the world if I need to service bearings for some reason or another. I just wish my xmember/steering rack provided the clearance yours does as I'd have room and front two caps at a minimum would be out of bounds assuming my pan would come off clear.PS how do you find out what size bearings to buy for replacement? ID numbers on the old ones? or the handy caliper?stamped .010 on the Federal Mogul bearings, I replaced them with the preferred Clevites.
Hope that helped too...
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280V8
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I created a new thread for this topic for the benefit
of the rest of the board...RB-----
Quoted from RossC...
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Rick, as I've never had to do any bearing replacement I'd love to hear a lowdown on procedure you went thru to R&R your rod and main bearings? I wasn't aware you can do all that from underneath/motor still in/heads on etc. I've only popped off main caps to inspect bearings before. I assume you had to remove your crank and thus front cover as well? or can you lower crank slightly/angled to access all bearings and how does rod removal happen just for starters of what I'm wondering...bearings are only thing I've never done on an engine I guess let alone in the vehicle (that and freeze plugs).
thanks for any info
(I'd feel a lot better if I felt it was something doable myself.....I've ALWAYS panicked when I thought I might have a bearing problem)
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OK Ross I'll relive the pain for you
I will go ahead and post this as a new thread for the rest of the HybridZ brethren.
The V8 Z makes it much easier as the only bolts I needed swivels for was the front two oil pan bolts and the front main cap (which makes it a little tough to get an accurate torque reading).
BTW, no you do not have to pull the crank out or even take the timing cover off...
1. Disconnect battery cables.
2. Pull starter loose (remove or bungee cord out of the way.)
3. Drain oil and remove pan and filter for inspection.
4. Remove oil pump.
5. I started at the back rods (7 & 8) by rotating the crankshaft so the rod caps are at the bottom. I pulled one cap at a time. Push the piston up into the bore so as to remove the bearing. Rotate new bearing into place however works best. A hard piece of flat plastic will help though I carefully used a long slender flat blade screwdriver (CAREFUL!). Pull the rod back against the crank and reinstall the cap with new bearing. Remember "tang to tang"...
NOTE: Use moly lube on bearing wear surfaces or I prefer trans gel. Inspect as required as you go and remove light scratches or burrs with a strip of emory cloth. When using the emory cloth rotate the crank frequently until you are worn out and then do it some more this will insure a good 360 degree finish.
6. Repeat procedure until all rod bearings are replaced. I torqued both rods after each sequence (i.e. 7,8 then 5,6 etc.).
Now comes the fun part (the main bearings...
7. First I loosened all caps so the crank could "sag" a bit. Then I used a combination of the above mentioned screwdriver and a hard slender piece of plastic I borrowed from a trimmer (for working with glass) to rotate each bearing out. NOTE: Rotate the "tang" side of the bearing out first! You will be wise to get assitance at this point as one person can rotate the crank while the other pushes the beearing around and out.
The front and rear main can be a real pain! In all honesty after inspection I decided to leave the rear main in as the additional surfaces would have made that a real fight. It could be done though.
8. Torque all main caps to spec.
9. Replace oil pump and torque to spec. (I highlt suggest a new pump and pickup at this time!)
10. Replace oil pan and filter.
11. Replace starter.
12. Fill with oil.
13. Connect battery cables and start engine.
14. Determine a moderate amount of break in time for the bearing surfaces and clean and bandage any wounds from the above mentioned procedure.
Hope this helps someone, it was my first time (hopefully the last too...!). I have access to lifts and plenty-o-tools as I have friends at a large dealership that are MOST helpful!!!
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280V8
[This message has been edited by RickB (edited March 17, 2001).]
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OK Ross I'll relive the pain for you
I will go ahead and post this as a new thread for the rest of the HybridZ brethren.
The V8 Z makes it much easier as the only bolts I needed swivels for was the front two oil pan bolts and the front main cap (which makes it a little tough to get an accurate torque reading).
BTW, no you do not have to pull the crank out or even take the timing cover off...
1. Disconnect battery cables.
2. Pull starter loose (remove or bungee cord out of the way.)
3. Drain oil and remove pan and filter for inspection.
4. Remove oil pump.
5. I started at the back rods (7 & 8) by rotating the crankshaft so the rod caps are at the bottom. I pulled one cap at a time. Push the piston up into the bore so as to remove the bearing. Rotate new bearing into place however works best. A hard piece of flat plastic will help though I carefully used a long slender flat blade screwdriver (CAREFUL!). Pull the rod back against the crank and reinstall the cap with new bearing. Remember "tang to tang"...
NOTE: Use moly lube on bearing wear surfaces or I prefer trans gel. Inspect as required as you go and remove light scratches or burrs with a strip of emory cloth. When using the emory cloth rotate the crank frequently until you are worn out and then do it some more
this will insure a good 360 degree finish.6. Repeat procedure until all rod bearings are replaced. I torqued both rods after each sequence (i.e. 7,8 then 5,6 etc.).
Now comes the fun part
(the main bearings... 7. First I loosened all caps so the crank could "sag" a bit. Then I used a combination of the above mentioned screwdriver and a hard slender piece of plastic I borrowed from a trimmer (for working with glass) to rotate each bearing out. NOTE: Rotate the "tang" side of the bearing out first! You will be wise to get assitance at this point as one person can rotate the crank while the other pushes the beearing around and out.
The front and rear main can be a real pain! In all honesty after inspection I decided to leave the rear main in as the additional surfaces would have made that a real fight. It could be done though.
8. Torque all main caps to spec.
9. Replace oil pump and torque to spec.
10. Replace oil pan and filter.
11. Replace starter.
12. Fill with oil.
13. Connect battery cables and start engine.
14. Determine a moderate amount of break in time for the bearing surfaces and clean and bandage any wounds from the above mentioned procedure.
Hope this helps someone, it was my first time (hopefully the last too...!). I have access to lifts and plenty-o-tools as I have friends at a large dealership that are MOST helpful!!!
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280V8
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Hmm...oil of the day was Castrol GTX 10w40. I never really have settled on a favorite.
I used to sear by Valvoline Racing as i unstand that it is an ashless oil??? Basically...I dunno what best
BTW, I did put in a new oil pump and steel intermediate pump shaft too...I now have better oil pressure than before.
But my finger still hurts
Though it wasn;t too hard on the wallet!!!
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280V8
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I agree...he needs to make some progress on his Z.
IT IS NICE (understatement for sure!)
But, nope, he hasn;t done a thing with it. He just smiles when you ask him about it like he knows he needs to but has too many toys.
Some people have all the problems huh!
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280V8
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OK, this is the final lowdown...
#6 rod was knocking as the bearing was shot. All the others looked OK other than one other rod journal that wasn;t dressed well (on the chamfered oil hole).
All the main bearings looked good though I did replace them (with a little help from some friends!).
I also swapped in new rod bearings and cleaned up the two questionable journals with emory cloth. Of course she went back together with a new rear seal as well.
After about 8 hours (and one major chunk out of my left index finger, OUCH) today it lives again and is back home!!! No knocks.
BTW, responding to Pete's comment on the pickup tube bracket. PLEASE NOTE; I had one crack and break allowing the pickup tube to pop out and i was not as fortunate as this time. It hurt a nice 406" SB bad. I have used them since but...I also tacked the pickup tube along with the the bolt down bracket!
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280V8
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Scottie, you'll find this interesting...
fellow Z'er Greg Kring now has a Stage 2 motored GN. I witnessed him run 11.20 something at 129mph on 15#'s boost, pump gas and radial TA's (not DR's)!!!
He then went 10.40's at 131mph on ET streets and still low boost and pump gas!
Greg also told me face to face that he ran a 10.06@139 if i recall correctly at 19#'s boost!!!
INCREDIBLE!!!
Folks, this is in a full weight GN with CD player, A/C, etc., etc.
Imagine if you dare what it would do in one of our cars
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280V8
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Good news...I pulled the pan today and this is what i have found so far.
First the bad news;
1. The oil pump pickup was rolling in the bottom of the pan. Whoever built this engine didn't realize the importance of brazing the pickup to the pump
Now the good news;
1. No trash in the pan or filter!!!
2. The front main and rods 7 and 8 had no bearing damage (I ran out of time to check the rest).
3. I think the "knock" was either...
a. the loose pickup screen
b. the pump cavitating??
Everything was very easy to get to on these cars! I had the pan off in no more time then it took to put the car on a lift. (Mine is lowered so that took a little time...)
Since I have it opened up this far I picked up a new hi-pressure Melling pump, pickup (yes, I'll weld it on!!!) and steel intermediate pump shaft . I also purchased new Clevite rod and main bearings, pan gasket and rear main seal. No, I didn't forget the oil and filter
If I find any damage I'll report later.More good news...the guy who sold me the car said it was just a plain old cast piston 350 (as far as he knew). I am happy to report spotting forged slugs hugging the cylinder walls! Oh, and last weekend I pulled a valve cover and was pleased to find roller rockers as well.
If all goes as planned I'll have her buttoned up by lunch tomorrow!
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280V8
[This message has been edited by RickB (edited March 15, 2001).]
of the rest of the board...RB
(the main bearings... 
NOS,SQUEEZE,BIG BLUE BOTTLE!!!!!
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
I have done nice installs of micro switches on the carb linkage before. I prefer to fab my own bracket and use a micro switch (from Radioshack) that has a roller tip as it is much less prone to bending and hanging (experience!).
Call MSD and yes, they can hook you up as far as tying the retard in with switch activation.
I highly suggest starting with an adjustable SuperPowershot. When you are ready to upgrade NOS sells a very nice kit to upgrade to a dual stage (I've done it and i am not a guru). The kit comes with real sweet relays so as to kill the first stage when the 2nd is activated, etc. I had my Nova set up to launch on the 1st stage at WOT, the shifter handle "button" took care of the 250 shot. If I liffted the throttle that would kill the system as it was all connected through NOS supplied relays.
When and how much N20 you can run depends wholly on your combination. My car charges hard hitting the manually operated button a moment after the front wnd lifts (and the rear squats).
Keep us up to date.