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RickB

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Posts posted by RickB

  1. It sounds to me like you are trying to use the line lock to stage confused.gif

     

    The line lock is really only intended to hold the car stationary during a burnout.

     

    I have seen people use line locks front and back to stage but...certainly not the intent of the product.

     

    Stage with your foot brake or add a trans "break" (ha ha) to the mix smile.gif

     

     

     

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    RickB

    280V8

    http://photos.yahoo.com/bornabov

  2. I do have a functioning lockup convertor in mine. Sorry but I don't have any direct builder experience as I traded for the car basically complete with a fresh transmission receipt in the glovebox (880$). So far I have only improved and/or repaired what came with the car. For instance the long time starter grind the guy dealt with...the flywheel was on backwards rolleyes.gif

     

    I have spotted the wires you talked about but...haven't had an occasion or need to trace them as of yet. No probs with leaks and the shifter works great after replacing the damaged cable and adjusting the detents. I have a Hurst Quarter Stick.

     

    I think the previous owner gave up on the 700 and took it to a shop thus the fresh receipt. Though it would have been nice if they would have figured out that his flywheel was on backwards!

     

    Maybe the guys in the High Tech forum can give you a direct answer on adapting your lockup. I understand that the kickdown adjustment is fairly critical for these trannys as well.

     

    I have had a couple of FUN stick cars but...with a stick i doubt seriously that i would be able to launch as well and consistantly with small tires like I do now. Of course with slicks and the drivetrain to handle it a stickshift would rock!

     

    I had a V8 Vega with a low geared Saginaw 4 speed that was violent. When i match raced with it I would dump the clutch at 4000 RPM and hit the nitrous button and floorboard it. Then the button and my foot on the floorboard stayed fully engaged during each shift. I just clutched it and banged the gears eek.gif Clutches didn't last long confused.gif

     

    Anyway...whichever route you go i hope it works out for ya'!

     

     

     

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    RickB

    280V8

    http://photos.yahoo.com/bornabov

  3. Actually it doesn't take very long to get from 50 to 130+ at WOT on the button. It was really just a drag race from a fast roll.

     

    As far as cost, hmm...I figure I likely have less than 1/6th of the amount in my car as his. And that is being VERY conservative!

     

    And finally...no, my car wasn't getting loose on the top end. I do have a front air dam and the car is lowered.

     

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    RickB

    280V8

    http://photos.yahoo.com/bornabov

  4. Referring to the original topic...I had my 280V8 rolling way to fast earlier tonight eek.gif I will say that it was stable for the short burst we made. I have a front air dam installed and the car is lowered a little.

     

    I went from about a 50mph roll with a BAAAAD Supra Turbo and was glued to his door up until we let off.

     

    My speedo doesn't work...he said he saw his sweep past 130mph and figured we let off around 137!

     

    I was all into the nitrous the whole time. I still had overdrive to go (700R4) but I am not interested in hitting OD at WOT. Really, I'm not interested in going that fast...I really just like being quick biggrin.gif

     

    BTW, I've been driving my Z to work every day for the past two weeks!

     

     

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    RickB

    280V8 http://photos.yahoo.com/bornabov

     

    [This message has been edited by RickB (edited November 25, 2000).]

  5. Hey Guys...you'd be suprised at how quiet my "sleeper Z" is! I have shorty headers and dual 2 1/2's with a crossover and terminated into two DynoMax Super Turbo's.

     

    At idle the exhaust note could easily be mistaken for a aftermarket muffler on the original 6. Of course i have a fairly small cam profile and low compression.

     

    The only real giveaway to the cars true identity is the hood pins.

     

    BTW, I just raced a Supra Turbo that dynoed in the heat at 387 RWHP!!! I was glued to his fender up to just shy of 140 mph when we backed off. I don't think this exhaust is choking the car too much.

     

    BUT...at WOT the sound is NOT masked. Let's just say when you stomp on it the cat's outa' the bag smile.gif

     

     

     

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    RickB

    280V8

    http://photos.yahoo.com/bornabov

  6. The engine is set back so i use hood pins to latch the hood, in fact last night I adjusted them down to lay the hood flat. I had it raised to let heat out.

     

    I didn't do the conversion as i bought the car as is. I don't know about moving the engine down but...I would assume that it is as far down as possible in my experience so far.

     

    I have blockhugger shorty headers. The car is lowered so i plan to stick with the shorties.

     

     

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    RickB

    280V8

    http://photos.yahoo.com/bornabov

  7. Andrews point of constant pressure at a minimum of 5 psi is right on for a carbed engine. I usually shoot for 6 psi. For match races you can choose to tickle the envelope smile.gif

     

    For additional safety you can install a Hobbs switch which will open your solenoids circuit if the fuel pressure drops below a preset minimum.

     

     

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    RickB

    280V8 http://photos.yahoo.com/bornabov

     

    [This message has been edited by RickB (edited November 13, 2000).]

  8. I just ran over 90mph in the 1/8th mile this weekend with a very small shot (approx. 100 hp / 47 nitrous jet).

     

    I have a very basic combo (350/small cam/Performer intake/Carter carb/blockhuggers) with a 6 PSI Carter electric pump...much more nitrous and I will upgrade the fuel delivery.

     

    BTW Scottie...I've even had N20 on a turbo car!! WOW!

     

     

     

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    RickB

    280V8

    http://photos.yahoo.com/bornabov

  9. hmm...a 2 1/2" breather using a 1" drop base huh? What intake are you using? If it is an open plenum race type than that would explain the clearance issue. I have a simple Edelbrock Performer dual plane.

     

    BTW, Air Inlet Systems was NOT confident that this system would work. They highly suggested the optional 2" drop base to assist with clearance. I was willing to section the inlets and point them downward if need be. Fiberglass is pretty easy to work with.

     

    I have the back of my hood propped a little to let heat out. I'm sure that helps.

     

    If ya' want I would be willing to help you mock up my air box and see if it would work for you. I had to lay my nitrous system solenoids over and reroute the heater lines to use the drop base. An exercize you may not have to do.

     

    Let me know if I can help.

     

    Another BTW, I opened the car up on a straight stretch today in 3rd gear with the Ram Air installed...man it pulled like mad until I realized I was going WAY too fast!! No speedo??

     

     

     

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    RickB

    280V8

    http://photos.yahoo.com/bornabov

  10. Hey ZFAN/Mike,

     

    I just noticed that you are in the Dallas, TX area...me too! I also responded to your Ram Air Box post. I am just north of Dallas by Lake Lewisville (Little Elm).

     

    I have a dash cover that the previous owner had installed as well. It's not ideal but...it's a whole lot better than whats underneath if ya' know what I mean.

     

    Give me a shout if ya' want to hook up sometime. E mail private for phone numbers...

     

    work address; rickb@covenantchurch.org

    home address; bornabov@netzero.net

     

     

     

     

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    RickB

    280V8

    http://photos.yahoo.com/bornabov

  11. Nice Pete...very well executed.

     

    BTW, my ride had Walker DynoMax Turbo's though not the "hemi's" as Pete's car. I like the sound of them. At idle it's quiet enough that it doesn't broadcast, "V8!" to all the other unsuspecting victims on the road biggrin.gif

     

    RickB

    280V8

  12. Update on the cheap route (90$ a piece Nitto DR's on the current 14" rims)...

     

    I now have a 100 shot of nitrous wired and hooked up on top of a 350/small cam/performer intake/Carter carb/HEI/header equipped ride with a 700R4 automatic. This combo is probably good for 300 to 320 w/o nitrous.

     

    While the 16" or 17" rims would look great and would be a plus for many reasons I can tell you that I hook up VERY well with the little 205/55/R14 Nitto's for less than 90$ a tire!

     

    I tried out the nitrous on a new stretch of dirty concrete and hooked well and was able to floorboard it from a dead stop and get into the nitrous within a car length!! It flat works...

     

    My car is lowered slightly, has no rear sway bar though it does have a fat aftermarket sway bar up front and poly bushings all around.

     

    I run consistant 13.0 quarter miles on these little tires. From a stoplight I can whip cars that ET quicker than me at the track cause my car works...period. I don't have to have ideal conditions...geez, the tires even work good in the rain!

     

    Have fun Fairlady...the only car that tried me today was a Honda boy...they really aren't much fun frown.gif , though they seem to want to play quite often and the V8 cars don't even notice me rolleyes.gif

     

    RickB

    280V8

     

    [This message has been edited by RickB (edited October 29, 2000).]

  13. Doh...newbie mistake. Well then I'll start with adding in the solid U's and see what happens. I was planning on calling a driveline shop today.

     

    I've been racing once a month with Greg for a while now..you should have seen the match races with his brothers juiced Mustang eek.gif

     

    thanks for the direction.

     

    RickB

    280V8

     

    [This message has been edited by RickB (edited October 27, 2000).]

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