rustrocket

Old lever shocks are more fun to look at than to ride on...

post away I'll upload more pics as soon as my dad gets home with hit camera.

I wasnt able to get it on video, but i took my dad for a ride around the block today. He's the whole reason i built this car, and today was his last day before back home to peru (he called this his farewell tour). I had no radiator, just a ghetto return pipe from water pump back into itself. My dad was holding the gauges, and i had no seat belts or gear shift knob, and we were sorting out electrical gremlins between starts Regardless, took it down the street, gave it a little gas and the whole thing threw us back in our seats. Drove around the block, and on the way back, at 2nd gear and probably about 15-20 mph (no speedo) i punched it. The whole car pitched sideways and moved over half a lane before i eased off and turned back onto my street. My dad said he was looking for the rear of the car to come in front of him. It needs a few things, but it's pretty much there! All this work is finally paying off...

I did a search on ls1tech, hybridz, and corvetteforums and couldnt find the answer... The corvette alternator plug has 2 prongs inside it, one labeled F and the other L. I know one is for the alternator excitor/12v switch and needs an inline resistor. Which one is it, and what's the other prong for? Thanks!

Fair enough...Universal consensus is that my numbers are fine, i just expected them to be a little bit higher. I'll report back when i've let the ca run long enough to warm up. The motor was a pullout with 13,000 miles on it.

So i got my engine in my triumph fired up for the first time today...It's an LS2 from a 2005 vette. Engine oil is 0-30w amsoil. Issue is, oil pressure reads low...25 psi at idle (1300 rpm, cold), and only gets up to about 50 when i take the engine to 4 grand. I didnt run it for longer than the video. Is this acceptable oil pressure or should i be looking for problems somewhere? Autometer phantom gauges if that makes any difference. Thanks for the help...

I still have a TON of work to do, but this thing should be driving by the end of the week. Maybe not very far, but my dad is here through sunday and i'll be damned if he doesnt ride in it. Got it fired up today. You guys all know the feeling you get when you find out everything works and the motor actually starts up. Sounds pretty mean, the video doesnt do it justice though. On a similar note, the oil pressure is pretty low. About 25 psi at idle (1300 rpm, cold), and about 50 psi when i revved it up. Using autometer phantom gauges. I didnt run the engine for more than what you saw in the video. Thoughts?

Looking for any one that works from any L18/20/24/26/28 series engines. Price with shipping to 95112? Thanks!

Thanks. Exactly the answer i needed, although it makes my original plans more difficult.

When looking at the front of an lsx block where the water pump mounts, there is a round hole on top and a rectangular hole on bottom (a pair of these holes on each side of the block). So, does the coolant come out the right side of the block and back in the left? Or does it come out the round holes and go back in the rectangle ones? I've done some searching but havent been able to find a solid answer. Any insight would be helpful...

I did some of the fabrication, but a friend did all the mounts and whatnot. At this point,it's easier to some custom adapters and run the remote pump than it would be to move the entire engine/transmission back. If nothing else, it'll make the project even more unique...

But i have even less room on the front of the radiator for a pusher fan. If it were that easy, i would've done that already

My buddy said he'll start machining my billet blocks this week. Sweet.

Still trying to figure out some issues...In the meantime, can somebody verify i have the LS2 with the 58X reluctor wheel? (Grey) Cam sensor? Front of block minus water pump 243 Casting heads 6.0 L back of engine: Side view...vette mounts? What do you think?

Cameron - I have 21 3/4" between the framerails and can't go higher than 19. How big is the camaro unit? -Cameron

it would have to be remote and i'd hve to get rid of the idler pulley.

And unfortunately, moving the engine back isn't really an option at this point.

Yes, this is in the good ol triumph... Here is without the radiator mounted and bodywork on: Aux - Are these pictures helpful?

So, looking at this picture, you can see i dont have much room: My solution is costly, but i think it'll work well, tell me what you guys think: Use a remote mount water pump and remove the stock water pump. Have 2 billet blocks machined, one to go over each of the holes where the water comes in/out of the block. One of them will allow a standard sbc t-stat housing to be bolted to it, also allowing me to use any SBC thermostat. This will be the water return from the radiator. The other machined block will be pretty much the same thing, but have a water outlet that goes to the radiator inlet. Does that make sense? I think i could get the whole thing done for about $500. Then i could use my electric fan.

So i've run into a bit of an issue with wiring up my 6LS-2 to my LS2 (or so i thought). the issue i'm having is the crank sensor connector. The plug doesnt match up...i include pics. Do i not have an LS2? The cam sensor is grey, i thought i had the 58x reluctor wheel. The engine i stamped 6.0L Thoughts?

Basically, this is what i have: C6 Ls2 (from an automatic i believe) 2000 Camaro t56 SLP Billet Fly Cartech clutch Quickly disappearing patience I've spent the past 4 hours trying to get the t56 to bolt to the ls2. It'll go in, and then wont go any further than a 1/2" gap between the engine and the bellhousing. I thought it was the clutch alignment first. So, i removed the clutch, re-aligned it, and lubed the new pilot bearing (which is flush) while i was at it. Put it all back together...It went in a LITTLE bit further, and i thought i was on the right path. So i started tightening all the bolts evenly, and then the bottom drivers side bolt pulled a thread right out. I'm back to square one. What do you guys suggest?

The intake manifold bolts i have are too long to use on the carbed manifold. What bolts did you guys use? I'd like as specific info as possible. Thanks

Did i post in the wrong forum or something?

So as my triumph wagon nears completion, i've been looking around at GPS speedometers. I did a search and found a couple, like this one: http://www.buygpsnow.com/GlobalTop-HG-100-HUD-Bluetooth-GPS-Receiver-w-Speed-Meter-(51ch-MTK--5Hz--WAAS)-(Your-Choice-of-Free-Mount)__931.aspx and anothr one that i cant remember what it was called but was limited to 100 or 120 mph. What i'm really interested is in something more like the Racelogic Driftbox, or VBOX http://www.driftbox.com/ Which operates at 10HZ, and cost $500. I like the idea of data mapping and whatnor. What do you guys think? Where's the best bang for the buck? IS there anything that operates at a higher Hz and is in the same price range?

Hey man, most people have said it already. Just be honest For a while, i was having the chassis done on my triumph...granted i knew it was a TON of work, but after 8 or 9 months of sporatic progress, i wondered what the hell was going on, especially since most of the work had been paid for. I asked up front "is it the money?" And he said yes...I was getting the deal of the century and i knew it. The problem was, he got burned REALLY bad on a couple other customers, and he had to take on other/better paying projects to make ends meet before he could basically work for very little money on my car. It totally made sense and eased my suspsicions a little. I also threw a bit more money at him, and things got done in a hurry! So yeah, just be honest. Tell him you need to see some progress of you're going to take it somewhere else!.