kellhammer

Maybe a set of carbon fiber bumpers???

Can't wait to see it all put together

It does look amazing. Piston what type of Breathing protection are you using?

Are you using a 2 component clear? Thats one thing I'm concerned about spraying since the iso's in the paint can really have a bad effect on your health

310z I agree 225/50/16's are taller than stock 175 /70/ 14's So it should be more like 225/45/16

I currently have 215/60/14's on my z with 7 X14 wheels 0" offset no problems. This was the simple upgrade 20 years ago when I first got my z BF goodrich makes a touring TA and a radial TA in the that size tire and there good quality and fairly cheap cost wise

dtaylor I spotted those awhile ago but was turned off by the long order time. How long did it take to your wheels and where did you get them???

My roadster. Many many years in the works. Found it as basketcase with a ton-o-rust. Previous owner had stripped it down to nothing, planning to restore, but ended up in the back of his garage. The trunk is funtional and all sheetmetal.

Is it true, ROTA is coming out with a 16X8 RB series for us old school z car guys RB have a panasport look and are available in different offsets

The roller job is meant to get you a half decent looking paint job using cheap paint. With your labor being the largest investment. People are attempting to get professional looking results with this method but thats not the point. Try doing a spray job without a booth or even a makeshift booth. Try to spray a two component type paint without the proper fresh-air breathing equipment. Try to spray in a garage with a temperature around 55 degrees. Inexperienced first timers would be extremely lucky to get a decent spray job and not waste expensive automotive type paint. Even with the best equipment. Spraying is complicated and the fumes are dangerous. Personally, my car is not a showpiece and the roller paint job is just what it needs to get it back on the road. No excuse for driving around with a primer paint job

Use the fine white foam rollers. Like 5 bucks for a 4 pak

Vintage wheel doesn't seem have a 4X4 1/2" bolt pattern

I sprayed some MINWAX indoor/outdoor spar Urethane on a test piece. I sanded the piece to 600 grit first. The gloss is great. It might be a way to minimized the sanding and possibly polishing the whole car. A quart can of this stuff might be available. Application to the lower half of the car is my thinking. You still would want to sand the clear with 600 or 800 before applying a second and third coat for durability. The upper half of the car could get additional sanding to 1000 or 1500 grit and polished.

The Mopar site has all the info on how to do this type of paint job. It's very much like the way a lacquer paint job used to be done. Prep, paint, sand, paint, sand, paint, sand etc.. The quality of the paint job was directly related to how well your sanding was done and how many layers of paint you would apply. I painted my 260z this way in 1986. As you sand you are always moving up to the next finest grit and removing the scratches and orange peel from the prevoius sanding. If some of your body work wasn't quite good enough you could go back a couple of grits and make the repair. Lacquer paint was a great way for a home DYI er to get a paint job. But, it had alot downfalls. Durabilty wasn't as good as enamel . Another reason is due to the solvents in lacquer and how it effects our enviroment. Lacquer also is brittle and would show hairline cracks real easy. Now, the roller job uses a oil based enamel and rustoleum seems to have some flex to it. It takes some finese to get a real show quality paint job but it can be done . I wanted to get as close to my 918 orange on my 73 240z so I went to Benjamin Moore and got their version of the Oil based enamel. They will custom tint this paint but I found an orange from their color chart that was a real close match. They call their enamel a modified enamel since it contains a urethane for added flex and durabilty. I've practiced with on my 240 and so far it looks promising. I mixed it with somewhere between 20 and 30 % mineral spirits. You know when it's too thin cause the paint will run real easy. The good thing is if you want get it right you can stop and add alittle paint. The roller paint process requires you to experiment alittle. If you screw something up it's easy to sand off and start over. Sanding does requires some techinque and skill. But, it's easy to get and understanding on hoe to do right. Painting in lower temperatures seems to have no effect on how the paint worked other than to slow the cure time. Just make sure not to paint below freezing. Try to paint in the cold with a automotive paint and you'll have all kinds of problems

I would love the look of these wheels. Exactly what I've been looking for. First, they don't have that look of a modern wheel put on an old car. Second, plus size is no problem. Back space is no problem. 4 x 4 1/2" bolt pattern is no problem. $320.00 a wheel is alittle more than some other wheel choices. But, hey their custom fit. 16"x9 1/2" would be great for the rear. But, 16x9 1/2" for the front might be an issue. Not sure I would like 16x8 in front either. So, I would run 245/45/16 tires all the way around

Alloy wheels can be widen. I know someone who does it to a Saab wheel. He TIG welds back together. My comment to him was could they break? He responded. "No way" Heres the site http://www.vikingwheel.com/

I just checked Konig's website. No 16X7 Rewinds listed

It says 16" diameter in title but 15 " in description

Zfiberglass.com

After seeing your V12. I now feel certain my BMW 3 litre v8 can go in my Z It needs rebuilding since its got the bad cylinder walls. My 530 ran real smooth. 4 cams, stainless headers. All aluminum block and heads

I believe they come 17X 7.5 with a 35mm offset. Lug space I'm not sure about. But if you have to use spacers with these then you can work out the lug spec that way right?

Anyone seen these? 16x7 run about 179.00 each

Master's degree is not required to get a job but it can increase your odds. Hand sketching is a talent that requires practice for most of us. For some it is a natural talent that they don't seem to have trouble with. Don't be discourage by these people. My personal feeling is that it is a valuable asset and your education should include show freehand sketch classes. If you like to draw it will be much easier. If you don't you'll have to work harder at it. Don't worry if it is good or bad but that it is tool for which we communicate our ideas with. As far as job prospects my opinion is go to a small office. First, because there are lots of them. The pay and benefits will be less but your goal should be to gain experience. You'll get a better chance a larger amount of responsiblities. Larger offices tend to put you off in a corner to perform some basic task over and over. Unless you already have some experience that they find valuable. Small offices can't always afford someone for every task so you get to handle tasks more often that in a big office you probably would not. Architecture requires that you serve your time gain experience and make mistakes. School does little to show you how the day to day business works. Only an office enviroment can.

Has anyone see this car? He has the best tire/wheel I have seen. Somehow he managed to fit them inside the stock fenders. Does anyone know more about this? The wheels he used are Chevlons and from what I understand expensive and hard to get.