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dpuma8
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Posts posted by dpuma8
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I have a GT3076R turbo I am putting on my L28E and I need to tap the oil return line. I see that the stock l28et oil pan has a connection for a 3/4 hose.
Do I need a 3/4 barb welded or will a smaller size be good enough? Would AN fittings be a good idea?
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Awesome! My wife has a 94 TT and I am in the same boat as you. Hard to shift it into gear if the car is completely stopped and while at a Z specialty shop, the engine blew up. So I will be watching this to see how things go since I have the same situation as you.
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I have Megasquirt 2 3.57 with relay board and I would like to control my eBay fan but am not sure how to wire it up.
I am assuming the relay will be 30>>fuse>>Battery, 87>>Fan, 86>>Ground, and 85>> somewhere on the Megasquirt relay board? Is this correct? Are there any additional wiring mods needed for my MS2?
Thanks!
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Search Craigslist for a SR20DET swapped 240SX that won't pass smog. Test drive the car and offer low for the car. Swap engine to 280Z and then sell the 240SX shell for $1000.
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Darn. Got my car started with Megasquirt but this in trunk method didn't work for me. The Carter fuel pump would get very hot while my Walbro pump was pretty loud. I read the FAQ about directly connecting the Walbro and Carter fuel pumps together but then the poster mentions a problem 14 months later. I want to move everything out of the spare tire well and direct connect the two pumps together near the gas tank if recommended. I also want to get rid of my surge tank since from what I hear, my 75 Z doesn't need one (is this true?).
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I have a passenger seat that is perfect with no rips in my 280Z while my driver seat is ripped. I am trying to switch the seats but the bolt holes don't lineup. Am I going crazy and the seats are interchangeable? Or is there a left and right seat?
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Where do I connect the Alt Power and Alt Excitor wires on the 280zx turbo alternator? When I plugged everything in, the alternator started smoking. How do I get this corrected?
Also my 280zx alternator did not have a ground screw so I just added one from my nuts and bolts bin. Is this okay to do or does it have to be a specific size or fit?
Just got my megasquirt working so I am dying to get it back on the road.
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Hi everyone,
I got Megasquirt to fire up a little but it won't stay alive for more than 15 seconds so I was hoping to get some guidance on how to get this idling well. Here are my questions regarding my car.
L28E, Megasquirt 2 with TunerStudio 2.6.14, 240SX TPS, 280ZX Turbo distributor
1) My valve cover breather no longer connects to anything. Does this create a vacuum problem when running the car? I can't seem to get a definitive answer if it does or not with a FI car.
2) I do not have an O2 sensor installed in my car yet. Can I still get a decent idle without one for the time being?
3) When testing Injector channel 1 In Tunerstudio, it sounded like the 4,5,6 injectors were buzzing and not the front ones. If these are connected wrongly, does it matter with batch fuel injection?
4) My alternator is not wired up so I took a charged battery and attempted to test for spark. The spark plug would make snap sounds but I didn't see spark really. When I grabbed the spark plug wire, my fingers would get zapped a little and then I would see the spark plug fire strong. Or if I put the plug near the body of the car it would spark. Is this okay?
(Why am I getting "Error You aren't permitted to upload this kind of file". How do I fix this?
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Whoops. Forgot to mention that I am trying to fire up Megasquirt. I have the relay board. My 3.57 MS2 was a remade unit
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I am a little confused with starting my 280Z NA. I have the 280zx turbo dizzy swapped in and I get RPMs showing when I try to start my car but it won't fire up. I attached a timing light and it never lit up.
Am I supposed to have a HEI to tell the coil when to fire? Or does the 280zx turbo dizzy do that?
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I am looking for a base L28E map with my MS2. I tried uploading these msq files from here but I just get errors to import into Tuner Studio v2.6.19. I get a "Signatures do not match" message. Anyone have a starting point I can use? I have the 240sx throttle body and L28et dizzy
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Okay, I did it right and got a piston stop to verify TDC. The mark on the balancer is dead on so I am guessing that my indexing is correct. Is it still off?
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Eye balled it and the mark was right on. Piston was at the top, the notch matched and cam lobes were at 10 and 2 on cylinder 1
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Hi everyone! I am making the conversion to megasquirt and swapped over the 280zx turbo distributor. First attempt at priming the oil pump, I filled the whole pump with petroleum jelly and no oil which did not work. Then I filled the pump with oil and tried again by cranking the engine. This time I had oil coming out of the cam oil holes but my electronic speedhut gauges never registered any pressure at all.
Does oil consistently coming out of cam oil holes when cranked mean I primed the oil pump correctly and the electronic gauge is just slow to register? Or do I need to show pressure on the gauge before moving onto the next project? Just want to be safe
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The car was running but I am upgrading for Megasquirt. Car is at TDC and the damper mark is at 0
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I am just trying to get my distributor timing set to what the 280Z manual has at TDC.
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I was switching the distributor to the 280ZX Turbo one and I cant quite get it to the 11:25 that I am seeing on the internet. What I have is almost 11:25 but not quite. It seems I either get this or 12:00 for the shaft. I am asking also because on the diagram from the FSM, it shows the rotor pointing slightly ahead of one of the internal distributor screws while mine is pretty much pointing right at it.
Am I a tooth off or is it fine?
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Damnit! Then I don't get where I can mount two pumps and a surge tank. What if I cut the bottom of the wheel well out so that there was open air underneath this all? Would that help against fuel vapors and explosions?
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I am trying to fit the 1QT BC Bronco's Surge Tank into my 1975 Z along with a Carter fuel pump. I have both fuel pumps in the spare tire well and have a thick cover that screws over the wheel well. The surge tank is mounted in the old fuel pump location in the fuel pump bracket.
I am assuming I made a mistake now but just in case, I wanted to ask. Can my Carter pump be located higher than my gas tank? If I ditched the surge tank, would there be any issue of going Tank>filter>Carter Pump>Walbro?
Current setup is Tank > Filter > up to the Carter Pump > Surge Tank > up to the Walbro Pump.
Attached is a picture of a format I kind of copied from this site. It is from the 5thgenluder build
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On my previous car I bought from someone, I had the 240sx TB, Z31 turbo ECU, 4 puck clutch and Fidanza lightened flywheel. The car was extremely hard to start from a stop. There didnt seem to be any feathering of the clutch to get smooth and easy starts.
Now, I have Megasquirt waiting to go into the car and I need to update the TPS but I need an adapter to get the 240sx TPS on the stock 280Z throttle body. I tried making an adapter but it isnt going so well. So now I am considering just changing my stock throttle body with my extra 240sx one. Can I adjust the pedal sensitivity through megasquirt? Those with the bigger throttle body and MS, is it smooth when starting from a stop?
My new car has a slightly upgraded clutch and will have the fidanza lightened wheel.
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I have everything I need for the Megasquirt side of things which means I have all the sensors, relay board, and labeled wires. I was just wondering about the stock wiring. So just unplug the old ecu and off I go installing Megasquirt?
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I am ready to install Megasquirt but I was wondering what happens with the old wiring. Did you rewire the whole car or am I just keeping everything the same but just unplugging the original Ecu?
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I am looking under my Z and I dont get where to mount my Walbro fuel pump. It just doesn't seem to have enough room under the car for the walbro and a g3 fuel filter and damper. Does anyone have pictures of how they mounted theirs? What about drilling through the spare tire well and mounting the parts in there?
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My Z was running pretty well before breaking off a bolt in the thermostat housing. While waiting for replacement parts to come in, I removed all AC components, heater, dash, and I added a three row radiator. After getting the thermostat housing back on, the car had a hard time starting and when it did, it barely idled. It sounded like a huge vacuum leak was somewhere on the driver side of the engine. I used starter fluid and sprayed everywhere and there were no signs of vacuum leaks even though I could hear them. When spraying looking for leaks, the fluid would sizzle between the 3 and 4 cylinders near the intake manifold.
Next what I did was open the idle screw which made the car idle correctly and start up fine but the problem was when giving it gas, it would stumble a bit. On test drives, it sounded fine but then coming to a stop sign meant the car would barely idle again. Last night I drove around the block and at a stop the engine would die if I gave it any gas at all. This morning it wouldn't start at all so I don't know where to start.
Any suggestions?
Can anyone help identify these wheels please?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Looks like maybe Work S1 wheels?
http://www.workwheelsusa.com/product.php?category=29&wheel=84