arizonazcar

Not Safe For Any Use Of Any Kind!!!

These are (or look like) the same set of arms that have been passed back and forth at least a dozen times over the years, I believe they were mock-up pieces that I threw away years ago and someone scavenged out of the trash (i know who). They are not Chromoly and were never intended for actuall use. I'm sure we'll see em another dozen times before someone finally throws them away. Dave

The front to rear adjustment may only need to be done once during initial setup, the pickup points can be raised as desired for a given ride height. I don't expect to see many at the track changes to these settings such as you would with camber. Exhaust heat should be kept away from all sensitive components such as brakes, suspension, fuel system, electrical etc. This is standard racing practice.....Header wrap is a good idea where required. The lower arms should glide into place onto the bottom of the strut housing (no sledge hammers on my beautiful parts please) If it's too tight a fit we sand/grind/file as required, too loose and we add shim washers untill a proper fit is acheived, I may include some shims with the kit. Dave

I'm not using Aurora rod ends, correct length of thread is 1.625" as stated. 1.625" - .375 for the jam nut leaves 1.25" of thread, keep .93 of engagement and you have just under 3/8 of adjustment left. Since you can do both inboard and outboard rod ends there's about 3/4" of total to play with. The inboard rod ends are 12" apart, turn one in half a turn and you have made 1/36 of an inch adjutsment, multiply by 2 for a 24" tire and your toe has changed 1/18 of an inch at the tread (pretty fine) , I may have mod for finer adjustment if needed later. As the car is lowered and the rear arms (outboard side) go up past lateral the camber goes positive under load, raising the inboard pickup point corrects this and allows an increase in negative camber under load. I'll post a pic of the end cap with screw later. Dave

So you took a big enough impact to shear off 2 5/16" diam bolts, overcome the clamp load on the tubes, and punch the mounts through the bottom of the chassis......what do you think is gonna be left of the car? By the way the rod ends have 1.625" of thread so there's plenty of room for adjustment while maintaining adequate thread engagement. Gaining neg. camber under load is the whole idea behind raising the inboard pickup points. Cross section of fastener shear data was for 1/4", but using 5/16" I called 'em set screws but you're actually bolting through the bottom of the cap on the doglegs and the front diff X-member through the tubes, (once you have it ll where you want it) you'd have to shear them both off before you can rotate anything.....the bottom of the chassis is your backup stop. Dave

With pickup points rasied , the mounts are up against the bottom of chassis.... can't go anywhere no matter what force is applied, no matter how loose. 5/8-18 thread is plenty fine adjustment for toe. Steeper camber curve is disired due to limited travel with coil-overs etc. Arms aren't necessarily shorter, depends on adjustment....can swap jam nuts with full thickness nuts so rod ends arent hanging out in the breeze. Whole 35 year old chassis has metal fatigue: reccommend you make mold of chassis and reproduce in carbon fiber injected with structual foam, make suspension components from billet titainium, replace engine with Garrett TPE-331 (has 0% latency cycle compared to wastefull 75% latency of piston engine) makes 1100 HP from 150 LBS at 100% duty cycle Have personally driven vehicle so equipped at 375 MPH (Mitsubishi MU2) verfied on GPS. As a side note I still hold Commercial pilot license single engine, commercial pilot multi-engine Instrument rating single engine & mullti engine in High performance & complex aircraft Just for kicks

The bushings are machined specifically to hold the tubes tightly in crush mode, If under impact you're able to rotate one, then the floor of the car will limit the travel upward only allowing some positive camber, conversley any downward travel is limited by the half-shaft bottoming out. This may limit chassis damage and the camber can easily be reset in seconds That's assuming you didn't install the set screws. Using a .250-inch diameter grade 8 fastener gives you the following shear capability: A = Cross-sectional area of the fastener size (since bolt bodies/shanks have circular cross-sections, use area of a circle) = Pi x r2 where R (radius) = .250/2 = .125, therefore A = Pi x (.125)2 = .0491 square inches (in2) Capability in shear = 91,000 lbs / in2 x .0491 in2 = 4468 lbs After 25 years full time of making performance & racing parts for the Z (sold in 24 countries ) you guess I don't take that kind of thing into account before I hang a part on someones car? Design was intended to allow: Raising inboard pickup points to correct geometry on extremely lowered race cars Provide track width adjustment for tire clearance etc. Toe adjustment Fore & aft adjustment for centering of the strut into upper mount or camber-plate Reduce unsprung weight Look so damn good! Was not intended for you: If you're going to be bouncing off concrete walls at a 150 MPH or If you have no need for the adjustments or you don't trust aluminum suspenion components ( even though every Corvette made since 1984 has all aluminum suspension arms ) or you don't like the way they look or the design doesn't meet your particular application.......... or You live in Chicago, you drive your car all winter long on pot-holed streets covered with salt. Dave

First failure I know of in 18 years and hundreds of parts made.....the design has been well proven and been highly reliable. I continue to have a lot of confidence in them. Even so I am incorporating a longer threaded insert into the current batch to reduce (eliminate?) the chance of a repeat. It is also being plug welded Carefull inspection of ALL racing components is essential in order to catch problems before they occur. viperredls1z's (Dave Kipperman) part failed after several years and thousands of race miles, it might have been caught earlier before it broke. Dave K. has been a long time customer, racer, and installer of my products and is one of my current BETA testers. I really appreciate his input and suggestions as hopefully the members of Hybrid Z do. Sincerely Dave Epstein Owner ARIZONA Z CAR 2043 E. QUARTZ ST. MESA AZ 85213 480-844-9677 dave@arizonazcar.com http://www.arizonazcar.com

All arizonazcar.com camber-plate, coil-over, and shock sets sold over the last 20 years came with a bushing for the monoball to allow for the angle of the shock to change (relative to the shock tower) without binding the spring, and the top cone of the coil-over MOST CERTANLY DOES NOT SCRAPE THE BOTTOM OF THE CAMBER-PLATE. As usual misinformation posted. The misalignment bushing is not included when we dont sell the shock with set as there are a myriad of different shock styles (and dimensions). Have sold 50 to 100 sets a year for 20 YEARS....... about 5000 camber-plates, they've been increadibly rugged. Be carefull of mixing and matching and the cobbled together stuff on Ebay..... easy to run into trouble. The last picture is of the whole set with my new Big Piston shock for 240Z Dave ARIZONA Z CAR 2043 E. QUARTZ ST. MESA AZ 85213 480-844-9677 dave@arizonazcar.com http://www.arizonazcar.com

No brake system is DOT approved, only brake lines are. Go figure. Dave ARIZONA Z CAR 2043 E. QUARTZ ST. MESA AZ 85213 480-844-9677 dave@arizonazcar.com http://www.arizonazcar.com

With a modular rotor you have three dissimilar rotating parts all bolted together: the hub, rotor center, and rotor casting. Any small imperfections in ANY of the parts can and will cause runout (wobble) at the rotor surface. Also this frequently happens if there is a nick or ding where the stock rotor has been pried off the back of the stock hub. The very large rotor diameter used in my kits magnifies the amount the parts are out by. Some users mistakenly think that the parts are warped. Warp is a change in dimension due to excessive heating, obviously this is not the case with brand new parts. In my instructions (often overlooked) I specify that the rotor, center, and hub be turned (cut) as an assembly on a brake lathe to make it run true. I consider this standard installation practice for racing brakes and doing so removes any runout (wobble ) of the rotor. I like to see less than .007" of runout and less is better. Sometimes I like to bed in the rotors and pads and then cut them after they've undergone a number of heating and cooling cycles. Something else to watch out for is if you had new bearing races installed and thay have not been seated correctly, I have a $1500 hydraulic tool to do this job perfectly and it sure beats a hammer and punch. Hope this was helpful/useful. Dave ARIZONA Z CAR 2043 E. QUARTZ ST. MESA AZ 85213 480-844-9677 dave@arizonazcar.com http://www.arizonazcar.com

With a modular rotor you have three dissimilar rotating parts all bolted together: the hub, rotor center, and rotor casting. Any small imperfection in ANY of the parts can and will cause runout (wobble) at the rotor surface. This frequently happens if the is a nick where the stock rotor has been pried off the back of the stock hub In my instructions I specify thay the rotor, center, and hub be turned as an assembly on a brake lathe to make it run true. This is considered standard installation practice for racing brakes. In Nazar's case the rotor assembly had excessive runout and I have replaced it free of charge. Dave

Here's a link to another pic of it on a 240Z, customer used 2 90 degree hoses and a piece of tube to make upper hose work perfect, lower was trimmed 280ZX hose. http://www.arizonazcar.com/rad12.jpg Our rad has custom made tanks to use maximum width available without hitting the frame rails , If the Z was one inch wider........could have used off the shelf cheaper part. Her's a pic of it on Cliftons 7MGTE powered 240Z (535 HP) http://www.arizonazcar.com/cliftons362.jpg Note the custom made electric fan install and hose setup. Crossflow design allows maximum cooling......inlet and outlet are where they have to go. Works super on 500+ HP TURBO cars here in Phoenix when it hits 116+ degrees in the summer. We make parts for customers who need much more performance than a stock type part provides. My products are geared for the advanced amateur at a minumum who have the knowledge and skill to make aftermarket parts work. No arizonazcar.com parts fits like, works like, or looks like a stock part. Been selling the same part for over 10 years. Been on everything from stock 240's to wild mod V8's and turbos. As you can see if you look at the links NO difficulties installing. I like the silcone hose option personally........looks really sharp for a little more money, Also Coolflex makes universal flexible chrome hoses that'll fit just about anything (cut to fit). Dave

Please look at the following pics, installation was simple : Really sorry for not including a complete interactive DVD installation manual for 2 hoses and 4 hose clamps, I guess we need to discuss how to fill it with water next. http://www.arizonazcar.com/eng2.jpg http://www.arizonazcar.com/eng1.jpg http://www.arizonazcar.com/rad15.jpg http://www.arizonazcar.com/rad14.jpg

I use the 280X lower hose with about an inch trimmed of one side, and Carquest hose #22373 trimmed also for the upper hose. Seemed to not have been a problem for the last 500 or so customers with the same radiator. Dave