jbc3

Hey from an OLD timer. I have not posted anything here in years and (to tell the truth) rarely logged on and read much either. I still have the same old 78 280z, LT1,6speed/R230. After blowing up my motor back in 2009, I put a stock bottom end 4 bolt LT1, a small cam and just the ported stock heads I had. I drove it to work on nice days and that is about it. Busy at work and busy at home with my wife and kids. (getting old) I guess you can say I was tired of driving without a little extra power. So I tore the motor apart and put new pistons and bearings, put the 847 cam 234/242 .575/.595 112lsa in, 1.6 roller rockers and Trick Flow heads that were stage 3 ported by Lloyd Elliott on with the modified LT4 intake with raised runners. Most of this was the top end that came off the 385 stroker that I blew up. I only have a few hours on this motor, I just started it this past weekend and drove it to work today... looking forward to breaking this in so I can enjoy it again. Here is what it sounds like now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYNNR_hmYcU

Go buy an RPM activated switch, wire it and have it activate the LED you mounted. That's it. Jody

It was a 385 stroker 252-258/108 - 610 lift w/1.6 RR Bullet Cam Custom ported Trick Flow Heads, long tube headers. .040 over, Lunati cam, Lunati pro mod rods, Ross pistons. Unfortunately the motor blew apart a couple of months ago. A couple of machine shop guys looked at the block, bearings and crank and they think the block around the front bearing support gave way and the crank broke and took out the front of the block. It had a ton of miles on it and I ran the hell out of it. I just put a new stock LT1 short block, ported stock Lt1 heads and GM847 cam (had the heads and cam on the garage shelf) . I still have the big cam and TF heads... I had the trick flow heads touched up if you know anyone looking. Both way too big for a stock block, the valve/piston clearance was non existent with the stock pistons. To stay on the subject of this thread... my gauges and LED signals have been flawless and look exactly the same as these pictures. 4 1/2 years, not bad

I just have the shrink wrap and at times it looks like a dim light may be on, but there is no mistake when the LEDs are on. As far as the stock housing, it is not a comfortable thing destroying something you just spent a bunch of money on, that's for sure, but the rear housing of the stock tach and speedo is the only housing part you use. After taking the stock cover off, I don't remember having any issues sliding it in or having to grind the case. And having a bunch of wires at the end... sure, but tie the grounds together...

Take a look at the file in TC to give you an idea what the settings are. That file has WOT blocker (prevents the low RPM block learns to effect the WOT fuel supply) This is also an automatic tranny file with performance shift, 6400 rev limit, 215-50-17 tires, 3.70 rear and raised RPM and block learn settings. Then the lower fan settings. EGR/CCP off. If you want help, e-mail me your file base file and let me know what changes and mods you have.

I have mine set for coolant temp 170/185 for the 1st fan and 185/195 for the second fan. The Hysteresis I left stock. (LT1-edit numbers) I will PM you a file that I did for another HybridZ with these numbers in it. Jody

It figures... I just wanted to make sure there wasn't an easy fix that I was overlooking. (besides... it is kind of important to have solid steering stuff ) I have another rack that is original and a little loose, I'll be sending it to a shop to get rebuilt. This one they may not want to fool with getting the bent section out.

I finally have my engine running after replacing the block and after double checking everything (so I thought) I went for a ride around last night. Turns out the steering was tight and when turned, it would stay turned. I would have to turn it back straight with some effort. I remembered there was a mark on the steering rack when I pulled the motor, but I unfortunately gave it little attention. When the old crank broke and the front of the motor was flailing around the rack obviously got hit too. What is the chance of repairing this? Thinking out loud... heating the area with a torch hoping to take the pressure off... or am I wasting my time even attempting to try? Or is there another solution besides just buying another one. Here is a picture of the hit mark, not very good, but since I paid it little attention, I didn't take a close up picture.

I put similar bullet cats on mine and "smell wise" it made a total transformation. The wife stopped complaining about the car stinking up the garage and in general the exhaust smell went away. OK, I may have lost a few HP, but it was well worth it. Jody

Accel makes shorty spark plugs. They may be small enough to solve your problem.

The lifters I used are the Comp R lifters, I think they are 875-16. Head update: I took the heads to my machine shop and after looking at them and pulling a couple of the obvious valves my guy said the damage to the heads is nothing at worst. We are replacing the valves and seals and skimming the heads, but the seats all look good. Obviously if once he gets them completely apart and he finds any other issues he'll address them...

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/ChevyTransmissions/gmt56.cfm 94-97 T56

Comp Cam Pro Mag 1.6RR It was a 385 stroker. I don't remember the name of the damper, but it is one that I got through my machine shop and it was one that bolted to the billet hub.