Jump to content
HybridZ

Mikez31ss

Members
  • Content Count

    243
  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Mikez31ss

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://67.18.219.83/image_hosting/web_pages/Mike88se/index.htm

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Houston, TX
  1. I'm hoping you still have an o-ring fuel rail for me
  2. What Tim said. Everything from 9/86 up had the 30a. Only 3 slight changes made to the 30a over the last three model years. You sir have a 30a. And a nice looking car. You should have made a trade with me instead of thinking about Steve's 260
  3. Good job on getting it low w/o excessive rear camber but...could you get some ummm normal pics? One immediate question that comes to mind...if you had custom wheels made, why didn't you get the correct offset and backspacing? I want to hear about the drivetrain.
  4. Ok first...I apologize for taking out my pissy mood on you. Disregard #1 in my first post and you have a pretty good answer. A stuck closed wg would increase boost. You need a boost controller. If you want more than the factory POV will allow then you need to remove the POV, modify it, or get an adjustable POV. More fuel to match the increased air is highly recommended. Do you have a VGT turbo?
  5. I'm asking myself that same question because you obviously didn't understand it. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm
  6. 1. I don't know what kind of car you have. I don't read minds. 2. If your wg wasn't opening you'd be running higher than the original factory boost setting...except that: 3. there is a factory overboost protection commonly referred to as the POV (pop-off valve) which bleeds off excess boost Yes, you need a boost controller. And you need to search a lot more than "a while" How did you install MS and an ic with such limited knowledge? Just curious. The Saab ic was probably your first mistake
  7. You may not need parts now. I was thinking Dallas is local to you. My car is okay. It isn't a 280 though. If I get another toy it will be a 280 or a z31.
  8. No help here. You made a mistake. There are too many z31's available in good condition for less than you've spent already.
  9. Possible parts car source for you: http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/1923919357.html Maybe he has some louvers So the black one in Shreveport has frame rail rust? It's posted on the Austin CL for some reason. Says "no rust"... http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/1925334188.html I think I'm going to start seriously trying to sell mine now. I need a 280 or a z31.
  10. But...but... but...you're one of the kung fu masters and I'm just one of the grasshoppas lol. I'm going to fire it up again tomorrow and see if I inadvertently fixed the problem while trying to find it.
  11. Thanks but I've already eliminated all the easy possibilities. The floats are dead on and the bowl isn't overfilling. I doublechecked that. And the carb body isn't cracked. The chokes are secure. I pulled the carb and rechecked everything but I can't see anything wrong. I pulled the middle carb just to compare the two and I can't see any difference in the operation off the car except that one leaks and the other doesn't
  12. I'm 99% sure the sticky intake valve can be eliminated. I thought gas was just coming out of one horn but it's actually both. One side is just much worse than the other. I can get gas to drip out the horns just by manually operating the accelerator. Seems like either something in the carb is stick allowing fuel to squirt too long or somehow fuel is hitting the outside of the throttle plate.
  13. I don't like the scheme but it gives you an edge up on the competition in casting 70's era movies
×
×
  • Create New...