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Mikez31ss

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Everything posted by Mikez31ss

  1. What Tim said. Everything from 9/86 up had the 30a. Only 3 slight changes made to the 30a over the last three model years. You sir have a 30a. And a nice looking car. You should have made a trade with me instead of thinking about Steve's 260
  2. Ok first...I apologize for taking out my pissy mood on you. Disregard #1 in my first post and you have a pretty good answer. A stuck closed wg would increase boost. You need a boost controller. If you want more than the factory POV will allow then you need to remove the POV, modify it, or get an adjustable POV. More fuel to match the increased air is highly recommended. Do you have a VGT turbo?
  3. I'm asking myself that same question because you obviously didn't understand it. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm
  4. 1. I don't know what kind of car you have. I don't read minds. 2. If your wg wasn't opening you'd be running higher than the original factory boost setting...except that: 3. there is a factory overboost protection commonly referred to as the POV (pop-off valve) which bleeds off excess boost Yes, you need a boost controller. And you need to search a lot more than "a while" How did you install MS and an ic with such limited knowledge? Just curious. The Saab ic was probably your first mistake
  5. You may not need parts now. I was thinking Dallas is local to you. My car is okay. It isn't a 280 though. If I get another toy it will be a 280 or a z31.
  6. No help here. You made a mistake. There are too many z31's available in good condition for less than you've spent already.
  7. Possible parts car source for you: http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/1923919357.html Maybe he has some louvers So the black one in Shreveport has frame rail rust? It's posted on the Austin CL for some reason. Says "no rust"... http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/1925334188.html I think I'm going to start seriously trying to sell mine now. I need a 280 or a z31.
  8. But...but... but...you're one of the kung fu masters and I'm just one of the grasshoppas lol. I'm going to fire it up again tomorrow and see if I inadvertently fixed the problem while trying to find it.
  9. Thanks but I've already eliminated all the easy possibilities. The floats are dead on and the bowl isn't overfilling. I doublechecked that. And the carb body isn't cracked. The chokes are secure. I pulled the carb and rechecked everything but I can't see anything wrong. I pulled the middle carb just to compare the two and I can't see any difference in the operation off the car except that one leaks and the other doesn't
  10. I'm 99% sure the sticky intake valve can be eliminated. I thought gas was just coming out of one horn but it's actually both. One side is just much worse than the other. I can get gas to drip out the horns just by manually operating the accelerator. Seems like either something in the carb is stick allowing fuel to squirt too long or somehow fuel is hitting the outside of the throttle plate.
  11. I don't like the scheme but it gives you an edge up on the competition in casting 70's era movies
  12. Thanks Tony. Still wondering why one side is leaking. Sticky valve? BTW I take it you aren't interested in buying these to help me fund an L28et swap Was it you that coined the phrase: "a carburetor is nothing but a controlled fuel leak"?
  13. Got a leak on one carb. Only one side leaking though. The float is set and working. Any ideas on what could cause one barrel to leak?
  14. Not a problem here. Maybe my question wasn't framed quite right. I was a little ticked at your response because you seemed to have missed the emphasis I put on the placement of the throttle plate in relation to the progression holes and that it was a question. I had typed out a response when mozilla decided to crash so it got lost lol. I've got DCOE40 18 carbs so I guess mine are a little older. I did use the newer style idle mixture screws that came in the kits. Whether that's a good thing or not considering my inexperience well...we'll see. My main goal here was to clean the carbs and eliminate some leaks they had. I'm satisfied with the jetting. It's been a good experience for the most part. I was pretty pleased when I modified the new grub screw aux venturi's to accept the springs from the old aux venturi's lol. I didn't want to drill into my carbs and go out looking for the right sized screws. I just wish I knew where those extra o-rings were supposed to go
  15. Sounds great to me other than the tap-tap-tap but I hear that in my vids too. So you have a mechanical fuel pump? IIRC you are in Japan. What's the ambient temp there?
  16. Good to know, thanks for the tip. If you've heard my car, it has a pretty big lope so a purring motor isn't going to happen. I can't see the throttle plate through the inboard progression hole with a light on any of the carbs. Maybe that's something that works on carbs that haven't been installed. I can tell that it is there by using a straightened paper clip. So I'm going to fire it up tomorrow and see how well it goes. All I need it to do is run the way it ran before. The jet combination on there now seems to be just about right. Appreciate the help. Here's a short clip of it running before the rebuild ...fter setting for 5 months and w/ 5 valves out of adjustment lol FWIW this is what's in the carbs: Main Jet 130 Air Correctors 165 Idle Jets 45 F9 Needle valve 175 Main Venturi 30 Aux Venturi 45 Emulsion Tube F11 Accelerator Pump Jet 45 Pump Bleed Back ?
  17. Thanks cygnusx1 for a helpful answer The main ***** I had when ordering parts and working on the carbs is the variation in terms for parts. My manual and most documents I've DLed for reference call those screws "idle speed screws". In some docs they're referred to as "throttle stop screws". There was at least one other term for them. I don't really care what we call them here as long as we're talking about the same part. Just so we're clear here I'm not confusing that part with the idle mixture screws. About my question on synchronizing the carbs it seems logical that if I can get the tool in one trumpet of each carb that should be fine since there is only one idle speed...oops throttle stop screw per carb. And thanks for the link to your writeup.
  18. After "rebuilding" my DCOE40 18 carbs I've learned enough about my carbs now that the epic Weber thread is actually useful to me now. I've got everything back together now and I'm ready to sync the carbs and set the idle speed and mixture. On the first page I read this: Sounds like a simple fool-proof method although I'm sure there may be some room for tweaking. Does it work? One other question on synchronizing the carbs. On one of my carbs I can only fit the synchrometer in one of the trumpets due to the BMC being in the way. Since there is only one idle speed screw per carb that should be fine...correct?
  19. Which is exactly why I want to sell it The black car looks good and it has all those extra speakers that young guys think they have to have lol. edit: You should just buy ZR8ED's car and be happy.
  20. Well whatever else happens you shouldn't have any heat problems The aux venturis are in and everything is back together. I just received some one range hotter spark plugs today so I should be able to try setting the carbs tomorrow.
  21. BTW thanks for the ride cygnusx1...that was fun lol. And that is a beautiful engine bay. Great car.
  22. I recently "rebuilt" my carbs. I haven't had a chance to sync or set the idle speed and mixture. I've been waiting on some hotter plugs that just arrived, Before the rebuild they ran perfectly with no stumbles or hesitations. A little (more than a little lol) on the rich side. In case you're wondering...I rebuilt them because of leakage. I can't say much about engine mods because I don't know anything about it except what I've seen and done myself. It runs great. It's an L24 w/ a bigger cam. Also 3-2-1 header and an adjustable cam gear. It did have an electric fuel pump but the pump was putting out 9psi so I converted to a mechanical pump w/ a ProProducts FPR set at 3psi. It ran exactly the same after the fuel pump change. Carb Type and Model: DCOE40 18 Main Jet 130 Air Correctors 165 Idle Jets 45 F9 Float Needle and Seat 175 Main Venturi (Choke tube) 30 Aux Venturi 45 Emulsion Tube F11 Accelerator Pump Jet 45 http://67.18.219.83/image_hosting/web_pages/Mike88se/images/240/webers.htm BTW if anyone can ID the intake manifold I'd appreciate it. It has no logo or markings.
  23. Looks like a decent car. On the other hand you could buy mine, sell the driveline, carbs, and wheels and get almost half your money back and have a much better looking car to start with
  24. I'm in almost total agreement with you. The use of keywords in that way is annoying. I wouldn't go so far as to send an email to explain why it's annoying. I'd just flag the ad and call it good.
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