onovakind67

You can use only 2 relays and simplify the schematic a little, but when I wired Larry's car I only had the 70A relays in the SPST configuration. If you use the 2 relay configuration, you have all the fan current running through one set of form C contacts and run the risk of losing both speeds with the failure of one relay. The same risk is run with the 3 relay setup, but the current switched is less than 1% of the fan current and the chances of failure are greatly reduced.

How much does it drop? Every regulator has limited compliance, so they all vary somewhat.

looks like crap so I have to...clean up the X hole. Good thing it's not an A-pipe.

how does one adjust a dedicated pump belt ? You don't - you buy them to fit your particular pulleys.

Sounds like your engine block isn't grounded directly to the battery with a cable as big as the positive cable.

I looked at some Taurus fans I have out back and they all have an 8146 in the part number, as in XXXX-8146-XX. The other numbers refer to the year of manufacture and some other codes. This number is on the inside of the shroud in one of the corners.

The water pump on the old SBC's turns clockwise, same as the engine. We use pulleys from Speedway with our Edelbrock short pump. They are dual pulleys so you can have a dedicated pump belt and another for the alternator. http://www.speedwaymotors.com look up part # 91015460 for the pulleys, #91015703 for the 180 degree thermostat.

As noted, the typical acceleration of a 100 mph car at the end of the quarter is about .15g's or 4.82ft/s/s. If you assume a constant acceleration over the last 66', your speed on the time card would actually be the speed at the 1287' mark. 100 mph is about 147ft/s, so you would cover the last 33' in about .22 seconds, accelerating to about 148 ft/s in that time. This would make your actual speed about 100.7 mph. According to the web-cars calculator it takes about 4 more rwhp to achieve this extra .7 mph in a 2600# car. There are a lot more factors involved, such as frontal area, tire drag, etc. I notice on these 'bragging' calculators they never ask you if you're driving a barn door or a belly tank.

The SBC long water pump measures 7" from the block to the outer edge of the rotating flange. The short pump measures 5-5/8". If you can stick your finger between the timing cover and the pump, it is a long pump. CHP has a nice article on the differences between the pumps and the associated pulleys. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/49718/# I would definitely recommend the Taurus fan installation. We have done several of these with great results. I set them up so they use both speeds automatically, and it's seldom that the high speed comes on. Don't buy your water pump by the external appearance, make sure it is a good high volume pump. We use either the Edelbrock pump or a Stewart pump. For the money it's hard to beat the Stewart.

I don't agree at all. The equation for heat transfer is roughly Q = -hA(Ts – T) Q = heat transferred h = transfer coefficient related to the medium A = the area of the radiator Ts = surface temperature of the radiator t = the temperature of the surrounding medium. Note that there are no time constraints or limits to the difference in temperature. The physics state that the greater the temperature difference, the greater the rate of heat transfer. The most efficient your radiator can be is when the water flow and air flow are at the maximum allowed by the system. Since the area and the transfer coefficient are constant, the only way to adjust the efficiency is to regulate the flow of the water and air. We use a thermostat to restrict the flow of water to warm the engine, opening it as the engine heats and if it gets too cool, we close the thermostat. If the engine temperature continues to rise, we use a fan to draw cold air into the radiator. This increases the difference in temperature and cools the engine. People don't seem to have a problem understanding that more air flow means better cooling. Maximum water flow creates the highest difference in temperature across the entire radiator. If the water flow is diminished, the cooler areas of the radiator becom less efficient.. Another effect of high flow rates is turbulence, which will cause the efficiency of the radiator to rise significantly. Tests have shown cooling rate increases of 150-500% when compared to laminar flow. One other misconception is that you need to have cool water coming out of the radiator. The automotive cooling system is a closed system, the longer water stays in the radiator, the longer is stays in the block. The cooler it comes out of the radiator, the hotter it comes out of the block. A uniformly warm block will be less apt to experience detonation than one that has a large temperature gradient. As the coolant approaches its pressure corrected vapor point, it absorbs heat at a slower rate, pockets of steam form and the efficiency is diminished. Stewart Components has a large amount of information on the design of cooling systems. http://www.stewartcomponents.com/Tech_Tips.htm

at the same time, i know the coolant has to remain in the radiator, or it doesn't get radiated. no time for the heat exchange, thus engine actually runs hotter ... No truth to this old wives tale. Radiator efficiency is directly proportional to the volume of water going through it. The hotter the radiator is, the better it works.

Sure is a nice looking strut bar!