wal280z
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Posts posted by wal280z
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On 9/4/2015 at 8:09 PM, wal280z said:
Updates have been made to the original diagram, click on the link above to follow the changes made.
Another round of updates - Revision "N" has just been posted.
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/11727-77-280z-color-wiring-diagram/
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21 minutes ago, jhm said:
Now THAT'S a deal!!!
Trying to de-junk. I never got to give you the full tour as I was messing around with my (former) daily driver.
@jhm I'll give the OP two weeks to respond - if you want them to re-sell, come and get em!
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I don't have that piece, but will offer the knowledge of UP TO 1995 Pathfinder / D21 pickup trucks used nearly identical AC grommet blank-off and pass-through bulkhead grommets.
The heater grommet you are looking for LOOKED similar, but it also crumbled upon attempt to remove it, whereas the AC grommet must have used a different compound.
In the picture below, the top grommet was removed from a 1995 Pathfinder.
The middle blank-off grommet was removed from a 1993 D21 pickup
The bottom grommet is stock to the Z.
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Here is a set pulled from my non-weather proof back porch.
Condition is unknown, best use for parts only.
Dirt & dust included at no charge.
Will ship full gauge / tach for shipping costs from zip code 23462
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Something I saw today that wasn't there in January, was after selecting the checkbox "I am not a robot" was a series of pictures to match with a brief description.
Again, I had to use Internet Explorer...
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I have experienced the same.
I used Firefox, currently up to date. V58.0
It appears to be a browser related issue.
I was able to leave feedback (and see feedback) using IE 11.0.9600.........
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On 3/15/2017 at 10:28 PM, gvincent said:
I know this is a 10 year old thread but did anybody ever find out about replacement terminals for the Catera Block fuse holders?
I was able to find the contacts here in the CONUS from https://www.digikey.com/
7-10 AWG 962932-1
10-11 AWG 962930-1
11-13 AWG 962928-1
All the above part numbers are available at a minimum quantity of one, just make sure you select 'Cut tape' rather than 'Tape and reel'
Hope this helps others in updating the vulnerable fusible links.
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I know this is a 10 year old thread but did anybody ever find out about replacement terminals for the Catera Block fuse holders?
Had to dig and find my old hard drive from the old PC (3 PC's ago). Dang, I did this all in late 2007.
I was able to locate the contacts from TGS Onlineshop (Europe) http://shop.t-g-s.de/ , and POSSIBLY from http://www.eagleday.com/ (Eagleday changed the part numbers of the actual part, so being able to compare all the data was an educated guesstimate, but I never ordered those terminals from them, other stuff, but not the subject terminals.), but I was able to salvage sufficient lengths of wire from the donor car(s) by isolating the wires inside the cabin, as the harness enters behind the dash on the drivers side, and extract the wires from the harness by pulling from the engine bay.
I was able to request samples from AMP (now Tyco?) but they did not have any terminals available for 10 gauge wire, and although I was able to source some Paladin ratchet style crimp pliers (those were well WORTH the $$), I did not obtain the dies required for the larger wire size. I would like to upgrade my current setup to use a heavier gauge wire from the alternator) to feed the fuse block (and in turn, the battery).
[Edit - I attempted to attach the file from AMP but it did not upload for whatever reason - The part numbers are
Version B (single wire seal-system)/A (unsealed):
= 6-10mm wire = 962939-1 / 962933-1
= 4-6 mm wire = 962937-1 / 962931-1
= >2.5-4 mm wire = 962935-1 / 962929-1
Hope this helps what you were looking for.
Wayne
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Updates have been made to the original diagram, click on the link above to follow the changes made.
Those who wish to just download the latest version, click here. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/11727-color-wiring-diagram-for-280z/?p=454677
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I did not find an appropriate forum for this posting.
FYI for all those who have a Pick and Pull brand junkyard in their area. For those who don't, and wish to make a trek or have parts pulled for them, this would be for you as well.
I did a search here for "row52" and didn't see any results.
Check out http://row52.com/ You can search nationwide for a specific vehicle in participating junkyards. VIN's listed as well as pictures as the vehicle is stationed in the yard.
I've had better results logging in rather than attempting to search anonymously, FWIW
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Just thinking out loud, but has anybody considered going with modern all electric controls? I had to drive a rental Nissan Quest recently, and was impressed with how nice and tidy the A/C controls were...
I've got no idea about the rest of the A/C components, but it might be worth looking at.
Thanks for the alternative options.
FWIW - the control unit in post #9 is fully electronic AND fits in the original bezel location.
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Has anyone located a suitable A/C control system and air handler for our beloved S30s? I have factory air, and my condenser/compressor are working just fine. I just want to replace the control panel, blower motor, and air handler/blend door assembly (in other words, everything on the passenger side of the firewall).
Is the 1993-95 Nissan Altima system a possibility? I don't mind rerouting the air ducting inside the dash, and I don't mind making a custom control panel faceplate. But I don't know if the Altima's air handler is 100% electric with stepper motors, or whether it uses vacuum lines. My old vacuum hoses keep splitting and slipping off connectors, and I am ready to upgrade!!!
My apoligies in my delayed response. As far as the DCC units, I believe someone has started a seperate thread on the functionality of those.
The Maxima control panel mentioned earlier FITS. I'm not saying it WORKS, but that is due to my delay in additional research.
I did not achive success on the Altima system, basically due to the conflict with the transmission tunnel.
The Mazda RX7 (87) control panel also FITS, however, you really gotta love the hot orange symbols on that, also, it is completely electrical. No cable operation for vents, temp or recirc. Only saying that if someone else is wanting a project.
Right now there is a subie WRX in the j/y that I need to pull the dash and do some measuring. It is also fully electric. The vintage air unit looks promising, as well as a custom fabbed evap / heater core box that flows into the S2000 air management unit.
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I am using my full 280z wiring harness in my 240z. The 240z came with a harness but it was all hacked up. I am going to be putting the 280z dash harness in the dash as well. This is all a big huge pain in the you know where. The reason you have to do this is the 280z gauges use different wiring as well as mounting.
Just curious - which year 280 harness / internals are you using? If I recall correctly, the 75 - 76 gauges have the same font style as the 240, the process you are going through might be a bit less painful if you use those years. Also, I recall the 75 had an amp gauge while the 76 had a volt gauge. With that said, I'm not saying that you could skip the changes to the mounting configuration.
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Heres what i posted last topic this was brought up in...[snip] Maybe you could buy a s14 usdm ac system and install it into an s30?
It may work, but by first measurements, it appears to be too long (right to left to fit into the cabin)
Last week I managed to tear into a 95 Altima - and grabbed the air management/heater case - It looked like it would fit, but I found out when I got home it was about 2" too tall. There was a 94 240SX in the junkyard this week - lucky for me someone already removed the dash! The air management/heater case was nearly IDENTICAL, with the exception of the heater flap door motor mounting location and a few chassis mounts. I opted not to get the 240SX casing, as it was broken. But the internal flaps and mechanisms appeared as though they could be swapped from either unit. Reason I bring this up, an unmolested Altima can be found much easier than an unmolested 240SX, at least where I live.
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Well, I think I hit 'my jackpot' today at the local Pick and Pull. Found a 1995 Nissan Maxima with a fully electronic control panel. No mechanical cables, just a bunch of splicing. For some reason, the photo will not upload to this post, here is the link to the gallery: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/gallery/image/23490-nissanjpg/
Brackets fabricated and the panel installed in the test mule. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/gallery/image/23734-maxima/
Note to interested parties - be sure and grab the Maxima mounting frame when getting donor parts. Cut down as needed.
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Heres what i posted last topic this was brought up in... [snip] http://www.chuonthis.com/cars/s14-dcc/ [/snip]
The DCC unit you reference is the fancier version of the 'manual' (that's what the FSM calls it) control panel of the Maxima I posted. I do recall seeing that thread - and I'm sure I will reference it upon installation. It does appear, however, that the DCC unit you have will exceed the opening of the stock bezel (which I would like to retain), but it may work for others. I will check out the 240sux in the j/y this weekend for clearance issues (max depth on the 280Z = 11.75" from firewall mount to dash frame. I may be able to gain an additional 3/8" to 5/8" by removing the firewall jute panel and replacing it with dynomat. Thanks for including the link to provide others additional options.
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since the expansion valves for 75-78 are NLA, there is even more need to replace the evaporator core.
Another reason why I am investigating alternate solutions.
I really like the idea of adapting the 95 maxima control panel to fit. you would need to get the electronic mixing valves from the maxima also, right?
the ones on the z are mechanical and cannot be adapted very easily.
Yes if you intend on keeping the stock stuff. No if you want to gut it all and replace with new. The electronic mixing valves are really small motors that turn the flaps. There may be additional mechanical operation to that, i.e. cable operated heater control valve. More and more late model vehicles are abandoning the cable operation and going with electronic controls. The Maxima casings were too large to fit without major sheet metal surgery.
After my weekend at Pick-N-Pull pulling the dash out of a Vigor (too big) and a Legend (this may work), I did spot an Integra (didn't get the year - it had the 'snake eye headlights') that at least the heater/air management unit may work but I was too late and it was in the row going to the crusher. Some provisions would be necessary to adapt the cable operated heater mode door to the electronic control unit.
Update : I have been making brackets for the control panel to mount to the dash. I hope to have that done by next weekend and will post more pictures. The good news is there was welded nuts in the dash frame in the heater control panel for me to utilize... yeah!
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When you say wiring harness the whole chassis harness or just the A/C harness if there is such a thing. I'm not running heat.
Things I have noticed doing the swap in a 280
The fan has four speeds instead of three. The additional resistor is in the fan housing.
The fan housings mount *slightly* different between the two models. You may want to keep the 240 fan housing but swap the motor out.
The 240 control panel and the 280 control panel are completely different. Grab the bezel while you are at it and see if it bolts up.
I haven't lined it up, but the location of the water ports for the heater appear to be slightly different.
I'm sure the connectors may have changed so you may want to grab additional lengths of the wire harness
The factory stuff has the vacuum control valves and reservoir bottle in the engine bay - not sure if you want to run those
Make sure you trace out where the holes are in the firewall so you can cut them in the same location on your 240 firewall
The 280 heater housing has mounting bolts that go through the firewall whereas the 240 has welded nuts on the inside - it appears in the same location - but check to confirm. (finding all of this stuff out while doing my own swap...)
The 280 *should* bolt up to where the 240 heater housing mounts to the top of the cowl
Of course, the FSM is uploaded somewhere to get the technical details on the AC system from the 76.
It's not a bolt in - but it's close enough to work, in my opinion.
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I like it!! Have you come up with the under dash unit you'll use yet? I hope you will make this install work, and document everything to where guys like me can follow your lead...
Thanks - joel
Thanks Joel - I am narrowing the possibilities... I have found three different panels that will work with the bezel - now it's time to buckle down and actually get something to work.
My search criteria is a 'somewhat' flat firewall, heater and AC firewall fittings somewhat in the same general area (excluding anything that would be centered on the firewall).... I've got three options (all mechanical / electrical+mechanical heat / all electrical). Again, it won't happen tomorrow...
There was a Cobalt in there late summer that looked like it might fit but I was too late in getting to it and it got crushed before I could take measurements.
I do hope to document/measure/record/etc. everything so it will be less painful to the next guy... thanks for keeping me focused...
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I've been searching for a more efficient and modern heater/AC unit to install into my 280. I haven't quite found one where the guts will fit inside the dash yet, but I wanted the control panel to look like it belongs there... Please note: I'm not pushing for stock, or factory, or something from Nissan. I just want something that doesn't look like I hacked it together in my back yard. I'm not very experienced in molding plastic, nor have I given thought of making a new one. I figured it would be cost prohibitive. So, I want to retain the stock bezel. The opening of the bezel for the control unit is about 7 3/4" X 2"
Well, I think I hit 'my jackpot' today at the local Pick and Pull. Found a 1995 Nissan Maxima with a fully electronic control panel. No mechanical cables, just a bunch of splicing. For some reason, the photo will not upload to this post, here is the link to the gallery: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/gallery/image/23490-nissanjpg/
Note on the control panels reported in the original post: The Rav4 was completely mechanical, the Subi was electronic with the exception of the temperature control which was cable operated.
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do you guys know if all s30 under dash a/c evaporators etc. are all the same?
I know first hand that the "factory installed" version on the 280Z is different in shape and size than the aftermarket one. I've seen a few different versions. Right now, they are in storage and I can't get you any pictures or measurements - not sure what you are really looking for...
Hopefully, when this is all said and done, I can toss all the antique 'stock' and aftermarket stuff away that I have collected over the years...
Why I started this thread is to find alternative ways to control the heater / AC ass'y in an S30, because I want to upgrade the heater/AC housing. In case you don't know, the control unit bolts to the heater housing. Eventually, I hope to replace all the stock internals with more modern stuff, as a unit (or some facsimile thereof...)
Here is a teaser picture... the stock heater housing side by side to a air management unit from a Honda S2000... Note - the unit from the S2000 does NOT include the heater core or the AC parts or the fan, for that matter. It won't be installed tomorrow, but I hope if anyone else has any ideas or suggestions, please chime in.
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...but that may not be very practical for someone who wants to use the stock system both under the hood and under the dash.
I apologize in advance if I misread your post, but keeping the stock system was NOT my intent of this post. The only stock part that I wanted to retain was the bezel that screwed to the dash. I want to install all new parts (under dash and under hood) for the new system. I want to be able to control the AC on/off while using the defrost. The stock (and aftermarket, back in the day) had the AC evaporator AFTER the heater/vent unit. It did not allow the AC compressor (with heat from the heater core) to the windshield to defog as needed.
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I've been searching for a more efficient and modern heater/AC unit to install into my 280. I haven't quite found one where the guts will fit inside the dash yet, but I wanted the control panel to look like it belongs there... Please note: I'm not pushing for stock, or factory, or something from Nissan. I just want something that doesn't look like I hacked it together in my back yard. I'm not very experienced in molding plastic, nor have I given thought of making a new one. I figured it would be cost prohibitive. So, I want to retain the stock bezel. The opening of the bezel for the control unit is about 7 3/4" X 2"
I've included three pictures. "Both.jpg" shows the two panels, side by side. "RAV4.jpg" is a close up on the RAV4 panel, and "SUBI.jpg" is a close-up on the Subaru panel.
RAV4.jpg: I found this in a first-gen Toyota RAV-4 (I'm pretty sure it was the first gen - the local Pick-N-Pull rarely has anything newer than 6 years old). Anyways, if anyone is looking to swap control panels in their 280, the RAV4 model offers a decent look. The large rectangular space to the left of the fan switch is for the AC switch. The unit is all mechanical (except for the AC switch). I didn't get the whole control ass'y for this, but the control panel fits like a glove.
SUBI.jpg: For those that have far more electrical wiring experience than I, I found a control panel from a 1994 Subaru Legacy that fills the hole size beautifully. This panel controls the servos by an electrical signal rather than mechanical cable. The temperature is cable operated. I won't be using this panel (due to the wear and the fact there is no recirc or separate AC button), but was giddy when I measured it and saw it would fit the hole. It may work for others.
Anyone else have any other ideas (control panel and/or the heater/AC housing units) that would work, I would like to hear what you have found.... Thank you.
'77 280z L28E Restomod/Street Build
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Looks like at A/T indicator lamp if it's connected to that portion of the harness.