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Sketch_hs

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Everything posted by Sketch_hs

  1. I want to post my 1jz 280z here for sale. Can't seem to post in for sale sections?
  2. I have a 1jz 280z that will be for sale very soon. r154, efr 7064, working AC! 916 216 3388
  3. Hello, The 1jz engines are about an inch shorter than the 2jz engines. They are also a bit lighter, the 1jz vvti engine being the lightest of the turbo jz series engines.
  4. This time it's a 2jz into a 73 240z. It's not for me though, a customer named Eric. I sold my 1jz 280z and he saw it and had to have one. Not too much progress so far, engine mounted and quickly sprayed the bay back for him. More pics later on
  5. Just sold the car for 8000! Needed money for a down payment on a house. Miss the car already, but will probably build another one someday. Daily driving a 94 300zx NA hardtop now
  6. I spent about 2k on everything, doing all the fab myself
  7. The 1jz stock temp sensor reads about 1/3 up the Z temp gauge at operating temp. Works well enough for me. The Alternator wiring is simple. Obviously the main charge back wire goes the the battery + terminal. The wires at the 1jz alternator are for B+, coil wire (ign +) and charge lamp. You can actually run the B+ wire and coil wire together from any IGN switched 12v. The other wire you can hook up to a charge lamp if you want. Use a multimeter to make sure it's charging properly when you hook it up. Get the mechanical sender from a USDM Mk3 supra turbo r154... worked for me. Good luck, the reward of your work will be awesome! I need an LSD and better tires BAD lol
  8. Ypipe and downpipe installed. Picked up a nice amount of power but hitting fuel cut all the time Replaced Diff mount with new Nissan. WOW best $40 I ever spent! Fixed my diff bang/clunk and lots of the vibration. Parts on the way for the rest of the exhaust. Pics coming soon.
  9. Nice car. While I'll never understand why someone would want to buy a built car rather than build it themselves, I thank you for doing so, it keeps money in my pockets
  10. Hi, I was reading your 1jz thread and was wondering where exactly is the resistor located on the z tach? I would rather go your route and keep the factory gauges etc. Pretty much the tach signal from the jz pcm is wired straight to the z tach minus the resistor correct? Any info would be great. Thank.

  11. Do a 1.5jz ( 1jz everything but a 2jz block, most people use the NA block) That's what's probably in my future
  12. I could probably get 30 if I drove it freeway only and calmly But the way I drive (boosting all over the place and every gear) I'm getting about 20-22 city and about 25-28 hwy. This is HARD driving. Lots of trips to 120mph, really beating on it. If I drove my supra this way it would probably get 10-13mpg. I also am running 225 width tires at pretty low pressure so thats not helping. I'm very pleased with the millage considering how I drive it. The only long trip i've taken it on was about 250 miles in one day, cruising about 85mph and plenty of boost pulls netted 28mpg. I still had about a 1/4 tank left where with the l28 I would have been empty at around 220 miles.
  13. Yeah i'll need to weigh the car to know for sure! But a 1jz with no AC or PS and a r154 should be about 600-620lbs The l28 fuel injected engine and trans complete should be around 520lbs? It's heavier for sure, but with the significantly improved power and handling who cares Did I mention how much better the gas millage is?
  14. I have a 1jzgte in my 75 280z The 280z tach worked great with the stock tach signal. It's off by about 5-8% at high rpms, good enough. I put a VDO black face boost gauge where my clock was. Check my thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/84424-my-first-z/
  15. Yup. probably only 2inch in some crush bend parts. There is probably another 30whp in a full 3" exhaust and 3inch downpipe w/ turbo y-pipe.
  16. Pics of current exhaust setup. Was able to push this muffler in further by putting a nice dent in the rear corner of the can. Then I painted the can with high temp mat black. Very happy with the noise reduction. It's very quiet now, the sound of the turbos sucking in air is what you mostly hear until high RPMs when it really sings. No loss of power that I can feel. This is all foreplay anyways until I build a nice 3 inch system. It's going be be hard though because the 2 incher is already pretty low hanging in some parts....
  17. Took it to the track, traction was a MAJOR issue. Spinning to around 50-60mph. Still running shitty 10 year old all season tires LOL Anyways the car ran a best of a 13.01, trap speeds where 108-111mph, terrible 60fts 2.2-2.4 seconds. Pretty good for a stock engine. Time for mods! Y-pipe and 3 inch exhaust should open it up, along with more boost and some tuning. I'll max out the stock turbos on crappy 91 octane (maybe 17 psi or so) until they blow up, then I'll do a single turbo However, before I do any more power mods besides the y-pipe and exhaust I'm definitely going to upgrade wheels/tires and brakes! I drove my buddies 220hp V6 mr2 that I built for him around today after some brake upgrades and I got to say, it feels slow to me after daily driving 1jz 280z! More stuff coming soon. I switched the muffler around AGAIN because it was just too loud for me. I'll post some pics of that tomorrow.
  18. Tried to make a video today. Sorry my camera and filming skills aren't that great Doesn't do the car or the sound of the car justice Speedo is off by about 5mph at 70 about 8-9 at 100 according to GPS speedo. Top speed on the run was about 120 maybe 125. First shift at about 45 second about 65 etc. Was running about 11psi (wastegates only stock downpipe, 2.25 exhaust)
  19. Another pic, looked great in person. Too bad the camera phone captured it a little blurry: Videos will be coming very soon.
  20. Drove it about 250 miles this weekend! Running great Did a boost gauge install. Gutted the broken clock and inserted a VDO boost gauge. Matches the rest of the gauges in it's style and lights up green like the stock gauges, though a bit brighter. Boosting a solid 11-12psi. Feels very quick!
  21. Yes, mechanical speed sensor for r154 tranny works with stock cable, only off by about 4mph at 70 (reads 66) stock 280z tach, works fine if you remove the inline resistor on the drivers side under the dash area. Off by about 200 rpms at redline.
  22. I bought it used (actually traded) I think it's the MSA or something, defiantly urethane. The 240 bumpers just needed simple brackets made.
  23. Outside my shop this morning, almost 200 miles on the swap. Running great! Finally found the right belt. It's a 6 rib 983mm belt Works great for not running PS or AC. Tach is working. Removed inline resistor and wired it directly to stock signal wire. Pretty accurate, with in 200 rpms at redline. Videos soon!
  24. Drove it around today. car is f-ing FAST! Gears are long with the r200, thank god. 1st hits almost 45-50, 2nd to about 75mph, and in a damn hurry. Lots more wiring to do, but I have my coolant and voltmeter working. Speedometer was almost plug and play, but is off by about 4-5 mph according to gps speedo... close enough for me. I need to figure out the tach, swap the L28 temp sender to get an accurate temp reading, install the oil pressure sender, clean up wiring, install boost and AFR gauges etc. Overall, it's been a great day. Every time I do a swap like this and drive it the first few days are better than sex and I'm not kidding. The Z will need better brakes and tires very very soon. More later.
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