Lazyeye

Nigel, 1. The hydraulics worked before I replaced the clutch. 2. I didn't change the sleeve, I removed the old bearing and put a new one on.

Clutch: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCC02/21-2011 Centerforce 2, 225mm for 74-83 non-turbo coupe. Replacing OEM non-turbo clutch Flywheel: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCC06/21-2021 The master cylinder rod length, is that the piece thats part of the pedal assembly? The throwout bearing is an OEM type (new), same manufacturer and model number as the Nissan dealer listed. For bleeding the system, can you offer any advice outside of what the FSM says? Thanks guys.

More details: I made a push rod out of a bolt that was the maximum length I could fit into the system. I'm still having the same symptoms, I can't shift, it just grinds. Should I bleed the system? The shift lever is being held onto the tranny by a bolt (lost the original piece) and is a little bit looser than with the original piece, could this be the issue?

I just put a new pilot bushing, release bearing, Centerforce 2 clutch and Fidanza flywheel into my 1979 280zx. I can't get the clutch to disengage. I was able to ease it into reverse, but that was difficult, and I can't get it into other gears. The clutch pedal doesn't come all the way up. The fluid level in the master cylinder is above "low" and below "full". Would replacing the clutch fluid or draining it resolve this, or do I need a longer slave cylinder push rod/pin as suggested here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135091 If I need a longer slave cylinder push rod, what size do I need?

Thank you for the replies. I'll go to the auto parts store and look for another pump today.

I'm at the point of putting the gear oil back into my 5-speed. Its mounted already, so I need to operate from underneath or through the shifter hole in the cabin. I tried using a length of thin hose on the nozzle of the oil bottle, but it seems like oil just wasn't flowing. I tried using a bulb/syphon pump, but it wouldn't move the oil at all... Can you give me some tips for getting the oil to flow, and getting it into the tranny? Is there a specific pump or something that works well for this?

OK. The torque of the bolts when done properly closes the gap. Thanks for the info!

When trying to my clutch together I noticed that theres a gap of about 1-2mm between the pressure plate and the flywheel when they are "resting" together, with no bolts in place. The gap is there with my Centerforce 2/Fidanza... ... and also with my OEM clutch/OEM flywheel Is that gap supposed to be closed by the bolts or am I doing something horribly wrong?

The release bearing is new, and is OEM type. The sleeve is the original one and so is the clutch fork. I should be able to check it all out tonight. (I have my car in a buddy's garage 40 miles away since I don't have one)

I'll check that out. It makes sense. Thank you.

I'm trying to install a new clutch/flywheel into my 79 280zx, I decided to put in performance parts while I had it apart to install a new throwout bearing and pilot bushing. So while trying to bolt the pressure plate (Centerforce 2) to the flywheel I can't seem to get the pressure plate flush with the flywheel around the bolt holes. So question 1: Is the pressure plate supposed to be absolutely flush with the flywheel? Question 2: I'm an idiot, overtorqued a bolt and broke it off inside my super awesome expensive Fidenza flywheel. Then, used too small of an easy out to try to get it out and broke THAT off inside the bolt. Can a machine shop drill both out for me without destroying my super expensive flywheel?

Baby Jesus punches kittens when people do things like that to Zeds.

Try living in Grants Pass...

Have you checked your O2 sensor?

Which part of Or-y-gun do you live in?

My college (OIT, Klamath Falls, OR) only canceled classes when the 4 feet of snow on one of the buildings caved in the roof. Also they kept classes going when the Bus wasn't running and I literally DID walk to school both ways in a foot or two of fresh snow.

Well yeah. Thats why I need a rollcage, so I can bolt a gun rack to it.

When I'm farther along in my career and have more money to burn I may jump on the .308 wagon. Or I'll stick with my one rifle and dump that money into my Z.

Not right now. The AR is the only rifle I have (had to sell most of my guns during a 9 month unemployment streak), and its my Zombie gun.

I like to shoot things.

I thought Z friends were for coercing you into new hobbies that drain all your disposable income in pursuit of speed.

Rattle can paint job with Krylon Satin black.

Those are pretty garages with pretty toys in them. But they aren't my dream garage. I want a garage with a vehicle lift and plenty of room for storing parts and tools.

Adjusting the valves should help with the clacking (it did with my L28), but I can't say about the compression loss.

There's a Z-Master named Lee in Roseburg, I don't recall if he has a HBZ account though. I'll be driving through Roseburg on Sunday and might be able to spare some time, but I'm not super Z-savvy yet.