HeatRaveR

A thought just occurred to me: is the Standard Priming PW supposed to be the same value as the PWM Time Threshhold from the Constants page? Just to confirm, I reconnected the injectors back up to the stock ECU, and sure enough, it fires up right away, so Megasquirt is definitely the culprit.

If resets are happening, what are the symptoms?

Thanks for the response. I just tried adjusting the 130F and 160F cranking pulse width settings all the way down to 1.5, but it still experiences the same cranking problem. Just how much lower should/can I go? Or would one of the other cranking settings, such as the Standard Priming PW (mS) value or Priming PW Source be the culprit? Since the car does start good when it's cold, I was almost wondering if I should actually *increase* the hotter Pulse Width values to match the cold values. But since it smells a bit gassy when it finally does start after cranking while hot, that does support the too-much-fuel diagnosis. Or is it only smelling of gas because the lengthy cranking is injecting lots of fuel with each crank? So I don't know what to think about which direction to tweak it. As a side note, I just changed the sparkplugs tonight, hoping that might make it better, but it didn't help. This cranking problem never happened when the injectors were still under the control of the stock ECU, so it seems doubtful it's an ignition or other such problem, I would imagine.

Here's the setup: '82 280ZXT with MS-I V3 (29V coding) running fuel-only (stock ECU still controls spark, fuel pump relay, emissions, etc). I have 370cc RC Engineering injectors, and pretty much everything is basically new. The engine is tuned and running smoothly when driving. However, I'm having a devil of a time trying to get it to *crank* smoothly. The starter will be spinning, but I have to pump the peddle until it finally turns over. When it finally does start, it frequently smells a bit gassy for a moment. The strange thing is, this cranking hesitation doesn't occur when it's started for the first time in the morning (so when it's fairly cold). Can you guys please take a look at my settings and see what I might need to tweak in order to get it starting good? There seems to be so many possibly-related settings to tweak that I'm at a loss on which to fiddle with. I'm actually on road trip right now and experiencing these problems, so I'd really, really appreciate any suggestions in fixing this ASAP so I can have some peace of mind for the rest of my trip. ^^ Thanks! Also, I don't know if it's a related matter, but when it's "cold" (meaning, hasn't been run recently), the engine will frequently choke/stumble/stall if I try gently applying the gas pedal (such as when leaving my garage). This forces me to rev up and then slip the clutch to get going. But once it's warmed up, the stumbling disappears. Is this related, and if not, what should I tweak?

I am normally at sea level, however, I'm going on a trip up to Colorado actually. So would your min/max values still apply to me? And other than these min/max values, is there anything else I need to input to make this work (other than just turning it on)?

So I've got MS-I V3 running 29v coding and as far as I can tell, the only fields I see for adjusting Barometric Correction (other than turning it on/off in the Constants page) is something about min and max kPa. What should these be set at, and what other settings do I need to input to get this function up and running? I did a Search, but it looks like this is something most people haven't needed to fiddle with or posted about. Since I'm going to be traveling up to the mountains soon, so I figured this might be a useful function to have enabled. Thanks!

So I've had a new downpipe fabbed up for my '82 280ZXT and I'm trying to figure out a way to reconnect that tube from the EGR to the downpipe. We can't just weld the original tube back into place because it isn't long enough, nor does it have appropriate bends to allow us to weld it to the DP and yet still have enough glex to wiggle everything into line for mounting. I hope I'm explaining this adequately. ^^;; What we could really use is some sort of flexible tubing of that diameter, like a smaller version of an exhaust flex-pipe, to allow us to fit the downpipe into place. My tech guy swears he's seen such small diameter flex tubing, but doesn't remember where. Does anyone else here know where to get something like that, or else have some other idea of how to connect the EGR to the downpipe? And no, I can't just remove the EGR, because I live in CA, where they would notice something is missing when I smog it later this year.

Regarding the custom airboxes around the radiator, I don't know if that would still apply the same way for the S130 since the front end/inlet is different. The 280ZX does have some big ol' hood vents, but I don't know how effective they are at relieving underhood air pressure while moving, especially since one of them is integrated with a NACA duct to bring air *into* the engine bay and over the turbo. I did install some custom side vents in the front fenders, but with my car, I couldn't find a convenient place back there to make an opening to connect to the engine bay without removing the wheel well splashguard. Any opening I cut back there would be too close to, or behind, the firewall and/or have airflow impeded by being behind the turbo heat shield (left side) or under the battery mounting (right side)

How far back does your belly pan go? I'd heard that our engine bays are "bottom-breathers", so I was worried about blocking off pathways that hot air escapes from.

How thick do you reckon I'll need to make the front-wheel-deflectors, in order to stand up to 120mph without permanently bending? Currently, I'm using some ABS pieces in a similar fashion for the rear wheels, as seen in the attached pic. Do you think this will be sufficiently thick/rigid enough for duty on the front wheels?

For my own reasons, I can/will not further lower or extend the stock airdam on my 280ZX Turbo, but I would like to explore other ways to assist with front downforce (particularly since I have the ZXR wing on the back). The only things I can think of that wouldn't lower or extend the front lip are winglets and canards, which are frequently seen on modern Touring and GT race cars. So I'd like to get some feedback on which might be more effective for the shape of my front airdam, particularly since the factory airdam doesn't entirely block off the front wheels. I'm more concerned with effectiveness than whether or not it looks "right" on an old Z. Of course, if you have other (practical) ideas for increasing high-speed stability that doesn't lower/extend the front lip, I'd love to hear them. For picture ID purposes, the green Takata NSX is to show winglets, while the blue Wedsport Celica is to show canards. And then the following pairs of pictures are for some cardboard mockups of each, just to give an idea of how they would alter my front bumper.

So I already know that the speedometer is cable-driven. However, I'm wondering, does the cruise control unit ('82 Turbo) receive some sort of electrical speed/mph signal from either the speedometer or the ECU in order to tell how fast the car is going? And if so, could that signal be used to provide a reading for any modern day gauge/gadget that requires a VSS?

I have an electric radiator fan, and I had the aux cooling fan wired into the same controller as the radiator fan. But, I recently removed it since I didn't feel any benefits worth it. I may put it back on later this year for a week-long Z-club drive I'm going on.

Thanks, I'll give that a whack. Just to make sure, if I manually lower the "ReQ Fuel" value, am I lowering the amount of fuel going in, or is it the other way around? I notice the gray field under the "8.4" says "4.2", so is that the value I should be putting in the field above it?

I'm coming down to MSA this weekend and I'd like to know if there's an experienced Megasquirt dyno tuner down in SoCal. I just installed it, and would like to get it tuned this Friday or Saturday. So if someone can give me a website or phone #, it'd be much appreciated.

Ok, so I'm at the dyno tuner's now, but I'm having problems with these settings. The car will crank but dies shortly afterwards. It seems like it might be flooding, but we aren't clear what to tweak and by how much. Also, this may or may not be the cause, but when we open the file, it tells us, "Although the file was read succesfully, there were 5 warnings written to the audit.log..." But when we try to start up the Audit Log in the Help menu, it says, "Couldn't edit _______.log ShellExecute error code 31". So how do we see what the errors are? So how do we

Ok, so the engine sort of starts ok, though the idle sometimes threatens (or does) die. I finally tried to take it for a drive and came across another problem. In order to save fuel, I used the Overrun settings described by Moby here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=872176&postcount=16 As soon as I try to put a load on the engine to get going, the engine dies. I can rev it up just fine, but as soon as I try to let in the clutch and give it some gas, it sputters and dies. Any thoughts? Later, I turned the Overrun function off, and it did seem to improve, but I don't know if it's solely because by that point the engine was warmed up (I had returned full engine control back to the stock ECU to initially get where I was going). Still, even though I was able to drive it, I was getting a pretty strong gassy smell, and the A/F ratio goes way rich when let off the gas pedal. How should I tweak the Overrun function to correct this?

I once lost my gas cap key (which had a different lock than the door/ignition locks) and was unable to fill my car back up for a 400 mile trip back home. I simply called AAA and they sent a mobile locksmith right over. He was able to easily lockpick the cap off and make me a couple gas cap keys. He said the gas cap lock was really simplistic, though I don't know if the ignition/door locks are equally simplistic or not.

Currently, I have the ground of the FP relay wired through a kill switch to ground. So I guess I can just have that ground instead connect to the MS instead of chassis ground, and then leave the (+) of the relay connected to the original ECU. Either that, or just don't bother having the MS connect to the FP relay at all, since the stock ECU (which should turn on/off at the same time anyways) is already controlling the FP relay.

Ok, one more thing: I can't seem to get the Megasquirt to send a signal to the fuel pump relay wire when I turn the key to the "On" position. It just says "Fuel Pump Off" in the lower left corner. How do I make it go on? I tried fiddling with the drop-down menus in the Cranking/Prime Table, but couldn't get it to go on. As a temporary work-around, I left the fuel pump relay wire connected to the stock ECU, so that it would go on. But naturally, I'd like the MS to have control of that. So I managed to start the car without exploding, though as naviathan predicted, it seems to be running pretty rich. As in smelly-rich. ^^ I dunno if this' necessarily the correct thing to do, but I lowered all the VE Table values and ASE values by 5% all around. I'll probably try those new settings tomorrow or something.

1. Yes, my injectors are low impedance (that's what the stock kind are as well, if I recall correctly). So it's set up correctly for that, right? 2. I haven't fiddled with the FIDLE setting(s) at all. I don't have any fast idle solenoid at all, to the best of my knowledge. Or, if I do have one, stock, the MS isn't wired up to it. 3. I do have the Innovate Wideband sensor, and have activated the appropriate coding in the Megatune Configurator, per DIY Autotune's FAQ. However, I'm unsure if I should be changing any other settings in the EGO Control menu. 4. I'll double check the TPS Full Throttle again tonight. Is it normal for the TPS fields to be blank everytime I go in there? Thanks again.

How many % points do you reckon I should lower the values across the range (factoring in the larger-than-stock 370cc injectors)?

Alrighty...after months of putting it off and fiddling about, I think I'm finally ready to start up my Z with Megasquirt! I've researched around here looking at people's posted settings, but I'm still extremely paranoid about it, cuz admittedly, I just copied many of the settings from the stickied posts even though I don't necessarily understand every field. So can someone please double-check my settings and make sure I'm not missing any settings or else put some wrong values in? If I didn't post a picture of it here, then it's something I haven't changed/inputted. Here's a recap of the relevant bits of my car's setup: 1982 280ZX Turbo Megasquirt I V3.0, running 29v firmware (currently wired up with GM coolant/IAT sensors, and is only controlling Fuel-only for now), purchased preassembled from DIY Autotune Innovate LC1 wideband sensor 240SX TPS RC Engineering 370cc injectors on Pallnet fuel rail Garrett GT35R turbo Constants: Displacement - 2753cc Injectors - 370cc A/F Ratio - 14.7 I did the TPS test for my 240SX TPS and got values of 23 for Closed Throttle, and 135 for Full Throttle. But when I go back into the TPS Calibration function, the fields are blank again. Am I supposed to enter these TPS values elsewhere, or is it normal for it to be blank everytime I go in there after having gotten calibration values? Of course, I'll be taking it to be dyno tuned and have the settings refined. But in the meantime, I can't afford to be dumping fuel in like crazy, so please let me know if I should tweak the current fuel settings, if they look way off. Lastly, can someone share with me their settings for the 8x8 AFR Targets menu and table? I saw a 12x12 table posted, but was hesitant to try and scale that down, so I'd rather see someone else's. Thanks guys!

Thanks for the heads up on that. Though, it won't apply in my case since the MS is mounted up near the steering column, so the wiring is already angled downwards. Well hopefully this was just a fluke anyways. I mean, I don't have to do some special disconnecting process when I'm ready to separate the laptop, do I? While I have everyone's attention, let me ask: Let's say I created a .msq file while having the 29v coding active and as the firmware. If I subsequently upgrade the firmware to 29y4 (or whatever the latest version is) and activate it in the Megatune Configurator, will I need to start a new .msq file from scratch?

Even if the battery is disconnected, the MS shouldn't need to be reflashed, would it?