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tah

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  1. I'll try to find these this evening, got to go do some work. Thanks...........
  2. Anyone done this? I removed the trim piece near the windshield (5 phillips screws), the 6 10mm bolts at the front of the dash, the 2 10mm bolts into the console area. Both vent handle mounts and the steering column bolts. Don't think these really matter, just did them in case. Seems like somethings still holding the dash in, any ideas? Thanks in advance............
  3. Dave, I believe I sent you a PM to be placed in line for this tool rental. If it's my turn, please tell me how to get the money to you. Thanks
  4. Zmanco.... Thanks for the pictures. As I understand it those are 16" Panasports with stock suspension/ride height. What did you do to lower the ride 1"? Coilovers? I don't think I'm ready to go that route. I've bought the reproduction european springs as well as KYB struts to go stock ride height/harshness. Am certainly debating the urethane vs rubber bushings right now. Might go rubber here and there and urethane elsewhere. Of course the occasional urethane will accelerate the rubber failure rate, so just another thing to contemplate............ Man, there's a boatload of decisions once you make the decision not to go 100% stock.
  5. Anyone got this combo installed????? Panasport 15" or 16" with Toyota 4 Piston Vented Front Discs and Modern Motorsports 11.4" Rear Discs? From what I can find the rear conversion will clear the stock wheels so either the 15 or 16 Panasports shouldn't be any problem. The fronts are probably the real question............. I REALLY like the Panasport look and can't see spending that kind of money for 14" wheels. Can't decide whether 16" are too much or if I should go with the 15's. Can anyone direct me to pictures with 15" and 16" Panasports for comparison? Don't want to use adaptors or change hubs and go with Honda wheels.
  6. Which spindle are you talking about here....the rear pins? If so I need this soon.
  7. I'm just getting my 72 to the point of pulling the driveline. Not sure which route I want to go right now, n/a or turbo, but I need some advice. #1. Let's say I want to go n/a and get a 280 motor with the 5 speed. Any years I particularly want over any other years? I'd plan to use my original SU's if I go this route. #2. If I go with the 280 motor, what internals would you have done (don't plan to go CRAZY but a fresh rebuild would be part of the budget) and what kind of power increases would you expect? #3. If I keep it real simple and "massage" the 240 block, what would you do and how much power would be expected? #4. Now then the turbo route. I remember reading that the 83 driveline was the most desireable, but don't know why. Please explain why I'd want the 83 over say the 81 or 82.
  8. I'm doing bodywork to my 72 240 and have a question. One of the PO's had a paint job which included a patch panel into the passenger quarter panel, meets the door opening - rear edge. After taking out the Bondo I discovered the reason for about 3/8" being filled. the body shop (I'm using this term very loosely) fit the patch poorly. The back edge was brazed into the existing metal about 1/4" higher then the existing metal. Then the front edge (which was low) was filled in to meet the door skin, also LOTS of filler. The question I have is getting the door aligned. The height is fine as it meets the body perfectly down to the waistline where the patch starts. Then the door begins to be higher than the body down to the rocker where the height difference is substantial (ok height at rocker but way high just before). I measured both sides of the car inside the door openings and found no discrepancies to account for this height difference. Thought for sure they had mounted the patch piece too shallow, but the measurements don't support that thought. I'm thinking that if I adjust the door to "make up" the height difference at the bottom, the alignment at the top 1/3 which is now fine will be thrown off. Anyone have input/experience with this issue? Could the door be "sprung"?
  9. Well I got lucky. A ZCar member in Maryland has disassembled a complete 74 260 and is "giving" me what I need. He said to just come get it. Right side, left side, rockers, hood, whatever I want for FREE!!!! He's a metal worker and took everything apart properly at the seams. Guess it's my lucky day!
  10. Thanks for the input. I've contacted them and waiting for a reply to see if this is a viable solution. Never heard of these folks. Any good reports from other buyers that you know of, or just a friendly suggestion? Also, I have a picture of my problem area but haven't seen how images can be posted to this forum. Am I missing something? Tim
  11. I need passenger side, thanks for the thought!
  12. Yesterday I took my passenger rear quarter to bare metal. Some a$$ had fit a patch panel and used about 3 to 5 pounds of Bondo. I knew I had some filler in this area but this was sick! They fit the patch high in the rear and low in the front and used Bondo to "hide" the transitions. The door gap looks unnatural. I think they fit the front of the patch with the door open and later discovered their mistake. Instead of cutting the patch loose and re-welding...Bondo to the rescue! I'd like to find a quarter panel like one of these listed on eBay. Unfortunately both of these are driver's side. The first one is what I believe to be an aftermarket patch, it's larger than the one used on my car before and would work fine. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT This one is said to be OEM, but no longer available. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT Any advice or guidance appreciated.
  13. Anybody bought a replacement before..and if so what should I be prepared to pay????? Thanks.............
  14. Don't mean to be rude..just curious. How much $$$$ you got into this motor?
  15. If the threads are gone to the point of no return, why not have the opening filled by "brazing or welding" (whatever you want to call it!), machined and threaded? Whole lot cheaper than a new head.
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