mikeatrpi
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Posts posted by mikeatrpi
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For the CHTS, I "averaged" the values in the sticky thread with some I measured. It seems fairly accurate now.
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Measured CHTS -
32F = 6040 ohms,
69 = 2220,
125 = 459
Suggested CHTS from hybridz.org -
14F = 9000,
68 = 2500,
122 = 840
Values entered for CHTS -
14 = 9000,
69 = 2450,
125 = 700
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UGH!
I think I blew the head gasket. I took a buddy out for a ride, and I might have been horsing around a little bit... the car goes "PSSH PSSH PSSH", and it sounds loudest around cylinder #1.
I have a 45 minute commute home, I'm planning to leave before rush hour and limp home. If its a BAD idea to drive it like this, somebody should let me know...
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I changed the gap to 032, based on some reading in the archives. I also installed Magnecor wires, a new cap, and rotor. I have been playing with the timing a lot, and I think I'm messed up. The car doesn't have the oomph it used to at the bottom end. Mind you, its still the NA compression ratio. I think I'm too conservative on the timing out of boost. When I get in the boost, it goes rich and I definitely feel the added power - but I do have some pinging.
I did change the injector settings per Z-ya's thread with the measured opening times. It definitely helped.
Here is a log, if anyone is bored, of my morning commute. Today was my first day driving to work. Don't tell the boss, I'm spending more time doing Show and Tell than work......
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I forgot to mention, I have been using VE Analyze. It doesn't seem to zero in on the AFR's that precisely, but I can definitely feel an improvement in the drivability of the car!
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OK, here's an update. First, some good news. I have been doing "real" driving now. We took a ride this weekend probably 30-40 miles to a nice bakery in a pretty part of Connecticut. So I'm getting my confidence, but its still not quite "good" yet.
I put in some NGK BPR6ES-11 plus, gapped at .028". Stock is 044, but I hoped that a smaller gap would help reduce some of the pinging I'm getting. I think it worked, but its hard to tell. I also shifted my entire spark advance map down by 2 degrees.
I do still have the tach spikes. I'm going to order some Magnecor wires. Ugh, another $100.
I have a miss now; its been there with the old and new plugs. It seems worst when I'm lugging the motor - coasting then getting back on the throttle. You can feel the car jerk, and watch the tach dip for a split second. I tried to put some markers in the data log when this happened.
I'm thinking that I have a hole in the VE map. And, I need to adjust my timing a little bit under boost. Maybe pull it back another degree.
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Here's a link to a thread I started which might help.
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Aw, you're right on the tach spikes. I am still running copper plugs, but I bought some NGK's. I'll put those in soon and maybe get some new wires to cut down on the noise. At least these spikes aren't bad enough to feel it when driving.
I have the Accel Enrichment settings disabled. I think you're telling me its time / ok to enable them. I'll do that and also start using VEanalyzer, basing my settings off yours.
Will keep you posted... thanks for the advice Dave!
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I replaced that MAP hose with some 5/32" rubber hose, finally. I also replaced the VR sensor lines with some 50 ohm coax from the scrap bin at work (its not the same as cable tv coax). I ran the VR+ and VR- as the data on the coax, and grounded the sheathing at the MS side only. I re-did the DB-37 connector as well. Last weekend I had the main power lead break off. I paid attention and did a neater job soldering.
MAP hose and coax during re-wire:
Coax and gnd; the ground is the sheath. You peel it back, twist it, solder it to a small lead, then heat shrink it.
As a result, the tach noise I was experiencing is completely gone, and I'm sure this new MAP hose will be better in the long run than the PVC stuff.
Also - not sure if I ever shared this. This connector is located under the dash and is connected to the coil. I'm using it as my switched 12v input for the megasquirt main relay. For the ZX guys, this is real easy to tap into. I do have a weird problem if I crank too long, sometimes it dips below about 9v and the relay clicks off and on again. I think this is something in my relay, not the wire I've chosen.
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OK - I got some time yesterday to replace the VR wiring with some 50 ohm coax, grounded at the MS unit. The VR+ and VR- are transmitted on separate coaxial cables. As far as I can tell, the tach spikes are gone!
Here's a new data log. I still don't know how to interpret the causes (and fixes) when the WB goes rich or lean. I know it takes a while for you to load it up and take a peek, and I really appreciate that.
This was a drive around the neighborhood, then a few miles on near-by back roads.
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Are you seeing resets in megatune while cranking? Ensure that your chosen switched supply is powered while cranking, first of all.
Assuming it is - sometimes on my car the voltage dips to around 9v, which is low enough for the relay to trip itself and cut power to the MS briefly. I was thinking of adding a large cap or buying a relay with a lower active voltage, but it hasn't been a huge problem for me so I'm inclined to leave it alone.
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Silly Q first - Any chance you're 180 degrees out (Are you sure it was TDC on the compression stroke)?
To get mine to idle, I had to find the right trigger angle. Luckily I copied someone else's settings from hybridz to start with, then confirmed with a timing light, then fiddled with it to get it more precise. To get the motor to even kick over, you just need to be in the ballpark.
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So, I'm a doofus. I'm missing the activation emails. Can you hook me up, "mikeatrpi"?
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Hey Dave, that's some tough news and unfortunately fairly common these days. I'll take a scan through the internal postings at work and send you a note if there's anything interesting.
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Here is another log and MSQ, this time with "Alternating" squirts. It seemed to idle slightly smoother once I played with the VE table a little bit.
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Mat - I dunno yet!!
My MS isn't tuned, and I feel like an idiot. Its beautiful weather where I live, and my Z is stuck at home. I'm experiencing noise on the tach input, and my AFRs shoot lean when I rev it. I have a thread going in the MS section (hint!).
I'm also second-guessing my home-brew relay board. The main power wire broke off the DB-37 this weekend, I'm assuming due to fatigue on a cold joint. I had the board in and out of the car a few times on Saturday, then Sunday I was driving and the MS shut off! I fixed it, but purely for reliability I'm thinking about buying the MS relay board and 4 foot plug section. Its $140ish, ouch! Cheaper than getting stranded I suppose. Decisions. Anybody got advice in that regard?
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Is TDC on the 78 vs 83 different?
You can easily find TDC. Remove all the spark plugs. Put your thumb over the #1 hole, and crank the engine with a ratchet on the crank pulley nut. When you feel it build pressure you know you're on the compression stroke. You can feel when it stops building pressure if you slowly rotate and release your thumb. Or, you can use a flash light to look inside the hole.
I'm not using EDIS, and don't have a trigger wheel, so I'm sorry if my response is too amateurish!
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Here's a super fast reply...
When I try Alternating, it won't run. I assume I need to re-tune the VE table up or down? Changing to alternating felt like a step in the wrong direction this weekend, but if that's the "correct" setting I'll work at it some more.
Yes, for the VR I run a pair of 18 ga wires twisted together to the MS box. I am going to visit the "home products division" supply cabinet for some spare 75 ohm shielded wire soon.
Thanks Moby, I really appreciate that you loaded up my files to take a look.
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Mikeatrpi.....you will need to change that clear hose coming from your manifold if it runs to anything other than the boost gauge....when the engine bay gets hot that kind of tube goes very soft and will collapse under vacuum......I found out the hard way
Yep, someone reminded me on the last page about that too. I'll make a note to do it soon!
mike
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Yes, the car will idle on its own, I'm trying for an AFR in the high 12's to low 13's.
Do you see anything interesting in my data log or MSQ file?
With the tach spikes, and roughness of the tune, I don't feel confident driving it very far yet. I have the acceleration enrichment and O2 correction shut off, which also probably makes it harder to drive. I'll do the VE Analyze thing soon - and I see I have to choose target AFRs for that too.
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Finally, an update! Over the past few weekends I brought the car out of storage, installed an AEM wideband, and started tuning. I also put some heat wrap on the downpipe and heat sleeve on the oil feed line.
The wideband is the lower bung, the upper one is for the stock oxygen sensor. For now, its just plugging the hole. The wideband needed to be far from the turbo; this is about 30 inches from the turbo outlet.
Here's a new boot for the j-pipe. Its from the plumbing department at lowe's. I have to watch and see if it melts... I hope not
The gauges. With a little filing of the radio, they fit where the tape deck used to be. I made a front and back plate, and use the clamps for the gauges to pull everything tight. The boost gauge is mounted upside down - otherwise I couldn't see it from the driver's seat.
I'm not sure if I like the gauges here yet. Once I get the car tuned, I shouldn't have to watch these gauges much - but, time will tell if I get annoyed and want to move them.
Finally, I connected the j-pipe to the air regulator. I cut a fitting on my lathe for the j-pipe.
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I humbly solicit help with this data log and MSQ.
This is an 82 280zx NA engine with a turbo and manifold from a ZX bolted on. Eclipse BOV, 2.5" downpipe, AEM wideband (linear), ZXT injectors, NA fuel pump, locked VR distributor, MS1 v3.0 running MSnSe code.
I see some tach flutters. This is probably noise, yes?
When I start the car (beginning of the data log) it stumbles until I open the throttle slightly, then the idle smooths out.
The rest of the log is me driving very slowly around my neighborhood. I see the O2 readings go up and down. How do I interpret what causes these fluctuations, and what should I do to correct them?
Many thanks!!!!!
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OK Mom, I smiled nice, can we PLEASE go to the DMV now for my road test?
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#1, but they're all pretty nice. Somebody has some computer skills!
NA to turbo conversion - questions and answers...
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
Time for an update.
I blew the head gasket a week ago. I took the car to work for the first time with the turbo, and I was being stupid and showing off. Whoops.
Now, the interesting part is why it blew in the first place. I was having a problem with pinging, especially in boost. My waste gate opens at about 4.6 PSI, and I pulled the timing in boost back to around 23 degrees - so I figured "hmm that's odd". I talked myself into thinking colder plugs would fix it. Wrong!
Anyway - it turns out that my lock-it-up job on the VR distributor was bunk. "X64v" reminded me to check the timing, which I did this morning, blown gasket making PSSH PSSH sounds and all.
You set the MS to a trigger angle of 20 degrees, then you can check it at idle and rev it. If the timing changes when you rev, then you botched the VR mods. Well, mine advanced big time when I rev'd it. I never locked out the mechanical advance. I thought I did, but I didn't. So, I copied "x64v"'s method and welded the top shaft to the lower shaft. Note to anyone else doing this - I wish I left the screw in, it would have been easier to weld the screw to the side. Instead, the hole is so deep that my weld looked pretty sloppy. You'll know what I'm talking about if you try this. I did keep the mechanical advance parts inside, as I don't expect them to be able to move now.
So, after fixing that - I started the tear down today. I'll use this as an opportunity to tidy up some brackets, wiring, etc that I wasn't happy with. The rest of you - learn from my mistakes - CHECK the timing across the RPM RANGE!