mikeatrpi

Further analysis shows that the damage to the metal happens when the nut is removed. That's probably how the split washer works. I've got it as straight as I can; any more and I'll need to adjust my alignment. Its between two splines on the threads.

I put a Momo 3503 adapter and momo wheel on my 280zx, but like a dunce, its crooked so I need to take it off and start over! Upon removal, the split washer had clearly carved metal out of the adapter - and the nut was also marred. It also appears that everything is too thick; the nut does not seat all the way past the threads. What am I doing wrong here?

I pulled my tube out and tapped a 3/8ths npt bung in the hole. I had to chuck it up in my drill and sand it down. I might've put in in the freezer too... But it worked

The momo 3503 is 80mm tall. I measured the stock wheel to be about 375mm in diameter, the thickness is about 25-30mm, and overall height is about 110mm. Meaning, a 30mm dish steering wheel on the momo hub would be very similar to the stock setup.

Ha, no worries. I just got the email myself. I ended up with Sparco R100's. They're ok. Not great, not particularly comfortable, but they fit and are supportive. I made my own brackets, had but later removed sliders to get lower, and replaced the seat belts. I moved the receptacle to a trans-tunnel mount at the same time. My biggest complaint right now is how the seat belt bumps into the wings at the top of the seat. Anyways, thanks for finding this and the reply

How tall is the momo 3503 adapter, does anyone know or could you measure it? I'd like a new wheel in my 280zx but do not want it too much closer to me than stock. I'm looking at some 330 to 350 mm sparco wheels but they have different amounts of dish too. Thank you!

Here's a photo from my 82:

Good info, great to know. I have a set of Sparco R100's coming in the mail soon - I (thankfully) decided to pass on the used 350z seats I'd found. Phew!

I'd guess return shipping will be killer. Unfortunately I don't live nearby any OMP or Sparco vendors.

OMP https://www.ogracing.com/omp-style-sport-seat Sparco https://www.ogracing.com/sparco-r100-seat-4

I'm looking for new seats in my 280zx for safety and support during HPDE. I see a lot of hype here about the Sparco R100's, which a tape measure shows ought to fit in the car. I'm also looking at the OMP Style, which is slightly larger - roughly the size of Corbeau A4's. The salesman at the vendor I called said the Sparco's are not very comfortable, but that the OMP might not fit in the car. Does anybody have thoughts or advice here? Thank you

These are the seats from MSA, right? Do you know where they are made? How is the support during spirited driving?

Does anybody have pics of manual 350z seats (2003) in a 280zx? How are the brackets done? Does it raise seating area significantly? Thank you!

Chicken man - you have mail 3) sorry, the intercoolers are all in boxes. I went on an EBay spree, but haven't installed anything. 4) Intake is the stock airbox routed through 2 1/2" mandrel bent pipe to the turbo 5) Jpipe is here: ^ This pic is slightly dated. I have a Champion radiator and electric Spal pusher fan now. I've also installed a catch can between the block vent and PCV. Re, alternator. Great question, no idea. I have a Dodge Monaco alternator installed, and I recently put in a car stereo noise filter to try to dampen some of the voltage spikes you see. I'll look more closely at the gauge in the car and wiring I did to see if I spot any issues. Thank you!!

Hi guys - I'm in a crunch here. I have a track day coming up in August and I need to do something about my high IATs. I got some help on msextra (pulling more timing, richening up the AFR targets in boost). But - what should I do for a bit of insurance? - race gas. I can get 100 octane at the track, or additives - colder plugs? I have BPR7ES right now. BPR8ES, or BR8ES maybe, but does this affect the tune? - methanol injection? It would have to go in the j-pipe inches from the throttle body. I might be able to move my IAT sensor, which is currently in the J-pipe - intercooler. I have an air-water intercooler and radiator but I'm missing the pump; I also have a Starion intercooler. Either of these would take me a while to install. Here's a shot of a log showing the high IATs. I've since made some adjustments, and the pinging is mostly gone. Here's my map, which is slightly modified after the above datalog was made. Note that my AE is not tuned properly, and I think my temperature correction needs work too. Car: 1982 280zx NA to T conversion, MS1 running Msns-e on a v3.0 board. Locked VR distribution. DSM blow off in stock J-pipe. Magnecor wires. 93 octane fuel. Thank you for any advice or suggestions! And, I haven't been on hybridz in a while; glad to see my ID still works!

Brake lights seem OK. But I'll check it out, thanks! And I'll order a new clevis pin (or see if my local dealer can get it). I appreciate the help, thank you!

My clutch pedal clicks. Its definitely coming from under the dash or firewall area. I suppose it could also be the master cylinder, though It happens both when I push the clutch in and let it up. I recently found some bits of amber or orange plastic on the floorboard. Perhaps these things are related? I'd appreciate any advice you guys have... I need to stay upright for a bit now, too much time spent upside down with my head in the footwell!

Bringing this back up to add more info and details to the already excellent information here. I am upgrading an 82 280zx. You can swap the stock 280zx pulley onto the 91 Dodge Monaco alternator and use the same belt. The part number for the pigtail is Dorman 85854. I drilled a bolt through the center and tapped it for a #8 screw to use as the ground lugs from Datsun are pretty small. I also had to file out the main lug since the stud is slightly larger on this alternator. Eventually I'd like to run new wiring back to the battery, but this was the easiest way to get the car back on the road.

Actually the HP is the rating on the motor, but be careful you're looking at the actual running horsepower, not the "peak" rating. What performance spec determines initial fill time for a compressor? Why are you worried about this? My 60 gallon two-stage takes over 5 minutes from 0 to 175, but I hardly ever experience that. CFM at 90 psi is a better measurement. More is better, generally. A two stage pump gets you higher pressure, but since (I assume) you're regulating your pressure you're really getting a capacity benefit. Should I relieve the pressure to zero after each time I use it? I don't. You'd waste a ton of electricity pumping it back up. Put a ball valve on the tank and shut it when you leave the shop. Also shut off the power when you leave. Just in case you have a leak, you don't want it running. Should I drain the water off the bottom everytime I use it? I do it periodically. You'll figure out how often to drain it based on your usage patterns. I usually just crack the valve for a few seconds and it shoots across the floor. Its also surprisingly noisy when the tank is pumped up. Other thoughts - don't use PVC for the air lines. Folks do it all the time, but there is a case to be made that it can be dangerous in the event of a failure. Copper, black pipe, or "systems" like Rapid Air are proven to be safer. And, make sure you're setting your regulator pressure with the tool running. IE, hook up the impact and adjust your regulator while squeezing the trigger. My regulator sits around 115psi but drops to 90 when I have tools running. You will definitely notice a difference! You've already gotten good advice here, but I'll throw out a plug for the compressor that I have. Love it! http://www.tptools.com/Champion-5HP-2-Stage-60-Gal-Air-Compressor,6246.html?b=d*8065

Just watched it - pretty cool episode. They pack so much action into only 30 minutes they have to skip a lot of details however. I wonder if there's a parts list somewhere? I'd like to find out what model Magnaflow muffler that is. Nice to see a TV show about fixing up an import.

Hey all... I'm going to bump this back up with a question about the subframe bushings. I have some Z31 prothane poly bushings that I'm going to machine down to fit the 280zx subframe - like this guy did, but on a lathe instead of using an angle grinder: http://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx-brakes-wheels-suspension-chassis-81/polyurethane-subframe-bushings-maybe-19834/ Rough measurements, the OD of the poly is 3.016" and the ID of the subframe with the sleeves removed is 2.341". Roughly. I used a set of cheap calipers, I don't have a micrometer! So I have to cut about .700 total. This part seems straightforward. Now on the ID of the metal sleeve that goes inside the bushing - I measure 0.861". The OD of the subframe bolt, at the widest hump, is 0.794". For comparison, the ID of the stock bushing was 0.836". What should I do here? JeffP (http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page17.html) got some 14mm bolts and sized the ID of his custom stainless steel bushings to fit. If I buy 14mm bolts like Jeff did, should I replace the metal sleeves that came in the Prothane kit and machine my own to fit? How tight of a tolerance is good? Should I stick with the stock bolts and machine a replacement sleeve with tighter fit? I assume the hump is there for a reason - to allow it to rock up and down a little bit? Is that really desirable? If I machine my own - Aluminum? Mild Steel? My machine is feeble - I probably can't cut stainless. And about the height - the part that matters seems to be approx 1.600", and that correlates closely - new bushings to subframe. But the z31 subframe bushings have a thick upper and lower part - I have to take some measurements, but does anyone know if that should be cut - face cut - down? Thanks for any tips. That's a lotta questions!

What car does a 2JZ normally come in? Supra? Good luck with the builds!

I go to TechAir in Danbury, CT. Not sure how far this is for you.

Ouch! Can you substantiate that claim? Sears on the other hand - be careful. More and more of their hand tools are being made in China. Dogbone? China. Polished flare nut wrenches? China. Tap and die sets, spline wrenches...

I think its GREAT! They're doing a group buy on these over at garage journal, if anyone is interested. $1900 delivered through june 30th. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67504