Fastzdriver

Great. I've got a brand new replacement radiator from my 76' 280Z that I was thinking of using in my 75' 280Z that is getting a 350/700r4 in the coming weeks. Glad to know that it is working well for you. Saves me some cash on the swap

Did you use the stock Z radiator? If so how has it been performing so far?

1975 280Z---- Gutted currently to recondition entire unibody, will eventually house a 327 SBC. WIP for 9 years now and I don't care if it takes another 10 to finish her 1976 280Z---- Rebuilt 1975 2.8 Motor with Arizona Z Car 4-Barrell Holley Carb conversion..... runs like a champ for those considering it. Finishing up the MM rear disk brake conversion and she will be back on the road, in the always fashionable primer gray though

M10x1.25 in case anyone needs to know in the future.

I need to know what size nut the fits the studs on the stock 280z manifolds. Specifically the nuts that hold the downtube to the manifold. I need to purchase replacements to mount my new exhaust system and this is the last thing holding me up. Thanks in advance for the help guys.

I am just swapping a used motor into my 76 280Z, I found a good deal on a 83 turbo motor. Will the stock 4 speed tranny bolt up fine or am I going to run into problems with the clutch and flywheel?

Which model cam were you using (specs ect.)?

Has anybody used one of their cams? I saw one on ebay that was a good deal but I am unsure whether or not it is to radical for street use: 270/280 duration with .460 lift Please help. Thanks

Thanks for all the responce so far guys. As far as a TPI motor was concerned I was going to get high flow runners from Street & Performance, and a larger throttle body, and my plan was to use the Megasquirt system to control it. And I am not quite as worried about the high revs since its probably going to be a automatic and definately a daily driver that will see alot of hwy miles. But definately keep the thoughts coming this is a big help And also as far as astetic go TPI wins hands down

Hey guys i recently ran across a good deal on a LT1 Motor and tranny out of an 93' Z-28, My original plan was to build a TPI motor. I was just wondering about your thought on one vs the other. Thanks for the input

any idea if the 74-87 Chevy pickup engine mounts will bolt up to a 307 Olds engine? If so that would help me alot in moving forward in my conversion. At least I would know a point to start from as for as mounting was concerned. And the 455 Olds idea sounds like a great plan if those dimensions are accurate, maybe something i could try later once my v-8 breathes life into my 75' 280z again

any idea why the remanifactured engine site linked above would state that that engine would work as a replacement for all of those different makes and models of cars? and i am not really worried about the original manifolds since i plan on replacing them with headers anyway

I recently got a 1985 Olds Delta 88 with a 307 v-8 and 200r4 tranny for my donor car for my 1975 280Z I am converting and am wondering whether or not the mounts on the 307 are the same as a SBC. I plan on using the JTR kit but I want to make sure it will work before I order it, because if it wont I will simply fabricate the parts myself. Also if anyone knows if the heads from/for the Olds 350 engines will fit the 307 (it has terrible flow ratings from what i have found). Or if anyine knows of a good Oldsmobile forum they could direct me too that would be great. And one other thing when I look up the engine online under a rebuilt engine site it says that engine will work in cars from 1985-90 such as the Buick Lasabre, BUICK REGAL LIMITED, 1986 CHEVY CAPRICE CLASSIC, 1988 PONTIAC SAFARI, 1986 PONTIAC PARISIENNE, and there are about 40 more on the list i will put the link below if any of you want to check it out. So far I have been able to confirm the the block does have a high nickel content which is good, also it has the same stroke as a 327 so if I bore it out and swap the pistons I could have a pretty decent 327 on my hands, and since I plan on using it as a daily driver the 200r4 should work out great and I can definately deal the the .67 OD gear with my stock 3.54 R200 diff. Basically I am just looking for a confirmation from those who know a bit more than myself. Thanks in advance for any input you all can offer, Here is the link for the remanifactured engine and all the different makes and models it will fit http://www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=229&p_catid=111

It is an Olds 307 which from what I've found is just a very slightly punched out 305 SBC, but otherwise they are completely identical but if you know anywhere I can find more solid info about the engine and tranny please let me know. thanks

I was in WV with my girlfriend of a few years over this past holiday weekend and her parents had a 1985 Olds Delta 88 sitting beside their shed w/o tags. I asked what their plans were for it and they said it was pretty well trashed and couldn't pass inspection anymore because of exhaust, rust, wipers, bad wiring in the brake and turn signal lights ect.. I asked about the engine and tranny and they said it ran like a top and drove great when they last had it on the road in 2002. New engine was put in 40k ago. So her father and I took out about a gallon of gas and poured it in ( they had even drained the gas and run it dry when they parked it). turned the key and she fired right up. Its got a 307 SBC topped with a 4 bbl carb, backed by a 200r4 with .67 OD gear from what I've found. even has A/C and cruise. And best of all it had the perfect price---Freebie!!! Told me it was all mine if I could use it. So my 1975 280Z will be getting life forced back into it this spring. But for the time being I will have to continue to settle for my 76' 280z daily driver I bought a few weeks ago ( another good deal rust free undercarriage only problem was a faulty fuel pump and bad ground on the FI harness, it fired right up with new gas after sitting for 4 years price $525). I'm sure I will be back with plently of posts once I dive in head first with the conversion in a few months after the paint and interior are finished. So I am going to thank everyone on this page in advance since you all have helded so many in the past including myself and for the help I am going to need once I start troubleshooting. Thanks again and wish me luck

i went ahead and hardwired a switch to the fuel pump and the problem is now solved. thanks for the input

if i hardwire the fuel pump to a switch or the ignition are there any other problems or complications that could occur other than the crash and burn scenario?

the engine has spark and runs like a top with starting fluid, only problem i can find is simply a lack of power to the fuel pump. i tested the fuel injection relay out per the service manual and it checked out ok. and i know i have power coming into the ECU from the harness checks just no power to the pump. and when i put voltage directly to the pump it reuns smooth and pumps fuel ok. i am pretty much at a complete loss. after studying the wiring diagram the ECU being bad seems to be the only answer but i want to get some feedback befor i go get one from my local z junkyard..... oh and a general note for all z owners in VA, the is a junkyard in Chesapeake called East Coast Z which has only z's in stock. The owners name is Barry and I have been dealing with him for years, nice guy. If anyone needs his # just let me know. again back to my problem, any advise is well appreciated. thanks again

I have a 1975 and a 1976 280z, the 75' is getting a TPI 383 backed with a T56 and is going fine however I recently purchased a stock 76' 280z for my daily driver ( my cars got flooded by hurricane Isabelle needed a new ride). Well back to the point, the fuel pump on the 76' was frozen up so i rebuilt a spare i had lying around. But i'm not getting any power to the fuel pump. i have the service manual and i have checked the harness out thoroughly per the manuals instructions however i am still not getting any power to the pump. the aif flow meter checks out, as do all the relays and sensors. and of course so does the battery. the last thing i can think it may be is the ECU. any help will be greatly appreciated since if i cant get it going i will be forced to spend the winter on my motorcycle since my other cars got ruined- no insurance or aid from FEMA unfortunately. Any ideas or if anyone knows a surefire way to check out the ECU will be helpful. thanks in advance

I am modifying my original fuel tank( building a new bottom half) and am wondering if anybody else has used a GM tube-style fuel level sender in a Z. Any info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Once again thanks for all of your input thus far. As i stated before i will be running TPI for fuel delivery not carbs. And once again the BW T-56 does have 2 overdrive gears to work with. SO even if i rarely had to hit 6th aside from highway miles, the 3.36 could save me alot of money in the long run. Last year alone i put close to 40k miles on my other car and 15k on my motorcycle so the gas milage for me is quite important. And being that the motor is a torque monster the low gears shouldnt affect it but so much once i am simply maintaining highway speeds of 70 mph and up. Mainly i am just concerned about making a vehicle with as much of the best of both worlds as possible. Hell, modern corvets can pull 27 mpg on the highway. I just want to be able to compete with those numbers.

I am building my 75' 280Z up with a modified GMPP HT383 motor with a modified TPI unit suppling fuel. With aprox 425-450 hp and 500 lbs of torque. It will be mated to a 94'-up BW T-56 with .5 final gear. My question is this: If i use a 3.36 diff gear set will my gas milage improve of suffer? I do a great deal of traveling and am looking to get the best gas milage as possible. I am not really worried about the lower gears because of the amount of torque i will be running. Any input will be greatly appreciated. P.S. I have already searched the archives but was unable to find a clear answer. Once again thanks in advance for your help with this.

I plan on using supertraps on my 75Z but i also plan on using resonators that are offset in the transmission tunnel to try and keep the sound level down. with the dual resonators, x-pipe, and supertraps with say 2-3 discs i think i should be able to keep noise to a minimum.

great idea. i hope it works as well as he claims. definately a cheaper alternative to an aftermarket TPI setup i was concidering. I'll definately be doing more research into it.

OH and the techs at Venom Performance emailed me back saying that their system does actually work with EFI with a fuel return line and that the note about it on systems without one was because "supposedly theirs is one of the few computer controlled nitrous kits that will work with some of the newer cars that dont have them(i.e. Neon,Cavaliers,ect.).The reasonI like the Venom kit is that it is programmable and can set up to be a more linear powerboost type system. All of the TPI nitrous kits i have found so far are simple fogger systems that activate at full throttle. Well with the engine that being built full throttle would be a bit excessive for street use as it is, add some NO2 and i would be sure to break some driveline parts. Also i have found a few complete aftermarket kits in the 1500-1800 price rance for a complete TPI kit. Do you think that it would be better/cheaper to go with one of those kits versus modifying a boneyard OEM unit (aftermarket manifold,Runners,ECU,Wiring harness,throttle body). Once again thanks for your input thus far