Konish

Kinda in the same boat turns out. I finally got my "Y" adapter for the wiring harness, hooked it all up today and the clock will not light up. I'm going to send Speedhut an e-mail. They've been pretty good about CS so far...lets see what they say about this. R/ D

I am indeed a real person and would be willing to help. Interestingly enough, (looking at your location), Plano is going to be where my family and I will retire when I get out of the Navy in 3.5 years.

I found these searching on Yahoo auctions, Japan. Although stuff is ultimately cheaper in the US, being local has advantages in terms of shipping, warranty etc. Plus, sometimes the prices are the same or actually a bit cheaper on stuff so it pays to look. R/ Dustin

Okay...should have done more research. Looks like a pretty common "no weld" application R/ D

Fellas, I've see then weld-in style that require the top of the shock tower to basically be cut out. However I stumbled on these for $220. Do you suppose these mount from underneath the shock tower much like a stock top mount using the attached studs? Looks as though all you'd need to do is to hog out the stock shock nut hole to accommodate the camber adjustment...(?)

96349-1154 is the FPO zip.

Like the title states. Looking for a good set of stock springs for my car shipped via USPS Priority Mail to an FPO/AP (military post box). Please send me a PM to work out the specifics. R/ Dustin

Confirms what I thought about the coils being pooped. Even though I'm newish to Zs, I'm not to cars and I've never seen a contemporary aftermarket coil this bad...I mean that spring can't be more than 5 years (probably less). I'm just crossing my fingers that the strut isn't bent or tweaked or the gland nut assembly isn't beat to crap. As per JohnC's advice but with stock 240z springs and Tokico Illuminas should set me up. Thanks! R/ Dustin

Okay to flesh this out and as promised...pics! Anyone know what kind of springs these are? Also, it may not come across the pics, but the coils all have what seem to be around 1/4" between them. I am bottoming *badly* on pretty mild to intermediate bumps in the road. Her is the car as it sits now: And the tape rear: Front: Both at 25.5" from ground to the top pf the wheel arch using the wheel's center as a reference. I've read all the stickies and searched the issue. What is not clear to me is if I section the struts (doesn't seem too hard) but do NOT want to go with coilovers, then what option does that leave me for a spring perch (since I figure the stocker will get cut up beyond repair) R/ D

The dials can be dimmed. Actually, at first, it looked as though full "low" was really "off", but at night you can definitely see a soft glow coming off the dials. The upgrade was a much smaller dimmer/color switch housing...pretty sleek compared to the stock box that come with the regular kit and quite a bit smaller too from what I could tell. The dials can either be green or blue via a selector switch on the dimmer box. Don't get too excited, they aren't dramatically different in color, but you can tell the green from the blue. However, it's either/or with the switch...in other words, you can't vary the shades between the default green and blue. Time heals all wounds and I would say that knowing what I know now, I would still install the gauges again and it would be MUCH easier. However, if you attempt this, don't go into it thinking it'll be a super-easy install. It's not hard per se, more of a pain in the ass grind to get it done. R/ Dustin

Wow...dude that is a pretty cool project. Thanks for posting the pics too..

Yes, they are almost ridonkulously bright. At full bright even during the day, they are easily seen. I'm not running the stock bulbs anymore, but if you're asking about the stock internals, then yes, I am running them. The look different because ironically enough I had to paint the needles bright red so I could see them against the white faces during the day. Of course, once the dials are lit off, they silhouette everything so the needles appear black at night. The more I drive with them, the more I like them. R/ D

From what I can tell, all the orders are custom prints because of the variations they offer on their website. In other words, I think they make them as they are ordered. Did you visit their website before e-mailing them? Price and ordering details are on this link: http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge_dial_description-auto-Datsun-auto_number-480.htm Fast turn-around on these too!

Sweet, thanks a bunch fellas. I was on the fence about going with the triples (inherited with the car badly in need of cleaning and a rebuild) or the ZTherapy SUs. Everything in my head says go with the SUs, but everything south of my belt says go with the Webers. I'm embarrassed to say, they're going in because they look dead sexy whether they make more power or not is immaterial at this point. R/ D

Yep, USN. I could not be happier here both on CFAY and in Japan. I begged my detailer for another tour in Japan (previously in Sasebo some 10 years ago) and ended up here. Thanks for asking! R/ D

I truly want to stay "old school" mech pump, and I've read some older posts with anecdotal experiences e.g. "I've been running DCOEs for 10 years with mech fuel pump w/ no problems..." etc. Thinking about giving it a go. Anyone still running the stock mech fuel pump with DOCEs? Anything to look out for (carb/float set-up wise) or have any recommendations on pressure reg etc? R/ Dustin

...that would be me. I just bought a 240z that the PO said had Tokico inserts and lowering springs. The car is much lower but it handles like poo. It bottoms on *any* uneven surface which makes for exciting times when it runs out of bounce. Besides, I can't wait to see what the bump stops look like. Anyway, I looked (and will try and get a pic later this afternoon) and it seems like the coils on the spring have little to no space between them along the entire length of the spring. I searched and read the sticky about the Tokico struts and springs...which seems eerily like my problem. Stiff as a board until it bottoms...in other words it takes a lot to make the suspension move, but when it does it feels like it only has less than an inch before it bottoms out. Bottom line for me is this. I want a lower than stock ride height but not at the cost of having some *reasonable* suspension travel. So: What would be a good combo that keeps the strut housings the same length (i.e. no shortening), has a (slightly) lower than stock ride height and provides the best combo of ride quality/performance for a daily-driven street car that occasionally gets driven quite spiritedly? R/ Dustin

Zentech, Thanks, but a little rich for my blood on a used part...I've seen pretty good ones go for $50-60 (unless your is like new condition). I can get a NOS for just over $200. If you want to deal, I'll give you $75 shipped *if* you can send me detailed photos.

Need a parts weber dcoe 40...basically looking for a 4.5 aux venturi. If you have ones of these by itself (the venturi) I'll take it without a carb body... R/ Dustin

Okay, after having sent money only to have a seller semi-flake on me, I'm again in the market for a nice '71 console. Stains and/or fading are okay but no cuts or cracks. Let me know...also must be willing to ship via USPS Priority Mail shipping to an FPO/AP. A quick explanation of what an FPO/AP is: FPO=Fleet Post Office and AP=Armed Forces Pacific. Shipping to an FPO/AP address is *exactly* like shipping anything else via the USPS in the US (including rates) the only thing different is the need for a VERY simple customs form. Appreciate anyone that could help me out with this...

One side vents from the motor and the other vents to atmosphere (or back into the airbox. manifold etc). All this does is, as it's name suggests, is catch the oily vapor from the engine, condenses the oil onto the media inside the can (could be baffles, but I've seen plenty that just steel wool) which leaves you with relatively "clean" air vented from the motor. The benefit (other than cleanliness), is that if you indeed have the air venting back into the airbox (or manifold in your case), the oily vapor won't go back into the combustion chamber. I've been thinking about a similar setup due to the nasty condition of my airbox... In your case, just run the can inline with the crankcase line into the manifold.

Install took 2 days in my parking spot outside my house...limited by daylight. Anyway, removing gauges from the Z is really meant for masochistic, contortionist, dwarves...seriously I felt like I was in a mine for most of the install and working blind for some of it too. Oh, and the edges of both the dash gauge holes and the lower edges are *razor* sharp. Anyway... Installed: The aftermath: The pic doesn't quite do justice to the extent and other hand is worse. Was it worth it? For sure. Would I *ever* get back under that freakin' dash ever again...no friggin way. R/ Dustin

Well, being in Japan usually means being at home all day and evening on New Year's Eve...which actually appeals to me at 40 Anyway, having that kind if time on my hands does have it's advantages... (after initial polish) I inherited these when I bought my car and boy were they a MESS!. Stripped every component (pump shafts, choke mech on the back, jets, etc), soaked the stripped bodies in vinegar overnight a few nights ago, dropped all the jets in Brasso and thoroughly cleaned and flushed them, blew compressed air through all the passages etc. Finally, I took my Dremel with a rosebud wire-brush and cleaned all the AL Oxide and funk off them... (art shot all dolled up) Wish I had a before...but you've all seen dirty carbs before. Just waiting on the gasket kit. The I'm on the hunt for a better manifold, linkage, pump etc... R/ D

Here's a doozy for you. The speedo and tach are now wired on their own connectors making for a seemingly easier install. However, the inverter only has 4 connectors for the 5 gauge leads...DOH! You would have thought they would have thought about this as an...oh, I don't know...install SYSTEM kit. Why change one thing yet leave another the same solving nothing? I think I would prefer that the gauges by wired together than splcing into the power harness... R/ Dustin UPDATE: I got a response back from Speehut and they said that the kit was indeed supposed to include a "Y" adapter to hook up the last gauge. So to make things easy, I'll connect everything but the clock and "Y" into the harness with the ammeter when the adapter gets here...

Looking for a DCOE 40s 4.5 aux venturi...please PM to work out the details...immediate payment through Paypal with references. R/ Dustin