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Zgotrip

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Everything posted by Zgotrip

  1. Thanks guys, i tried re setting the plug with a few good taps but no luck so i went with the JB weld. So far so good
  2. One of my 44’s has been leaking, I thought this was coming from the accelerator pump but upon close inspection fuel is actually spraying from what looks like some kind of set pin? Cant find it on any parts list and have no idea how to go at fixing it. Most of these pins have a little purple sealant around them but this one seems to have lost it. Any ideas how to fix this?
  3. yea that's the one i used, however it did turn out to be 8.2mm. That worked nice for me but 8mm and 8.1mm are out there from other sellers.had to grind it down and taper the end to match the stock one but after that it looks just like stock. i have no idea whats up with the lower hinge pin...so far
  4. no...sorry haven't had to deal with that one yet, knock on wood. Just keep looking and you will find someone that has done it.
  5. I thought I would put this up since it worked out so well for me. Sorry no pics..next time…My driver’s door had a ton of vertical movement and turned out to be slop in the upper hinge. In searching around I found that this was a common problem but no rebuild kits for these cars are available (♦correct me if I’m wrong). So after beating the pin out of the hinge I started looking for a replacement. Some people say to use a 8mm bolt to replace the pin but I found that 8mm bolts are more like 7.90mm and had more slop than my worn pin, and then there is the problem of the worn bushings. A little cruising around the internet and I found that door hinge pins for VW bugs up to 67 are 8mm and can be found in over sizes 8.1 and 8.2. The cool thing about these is that they are practically a carbon copy of the z pin same serrated top, but about a quarter inch longer. I got the 8.2mm and took to honing out the holes on the hinge with a little sandpaper wrapped around a drill bit. Yes I’m sure someone has a better tool for this but it worked quite well as I only needed to take off about .10mm of material to get the pin started. I ground the pin down to the same length as the z pin, greased it up, and used a BFH to beat it in. worked perfectly, hinge is nice and tight, zero play and looks totally stock. VW OEM part # 111.831.421 They also made this pin with a threaded top to mount the VW mirror so avoid those. $5 on ebay..
  6. You know I would have to agree, the forty post thing is a pain. I have let a bunch o stuff go on ebay over the last month or so ( NRG quick release and lock, Toyota calipers, good heater core,) and will soon have more to let go of (roll bar, stock belts, sub box, big rear sway bar, on and on and on….) I love this site and have gotten great response to the few tech posts I have made, but lets face it 95% of all my questions are easily answered with the search button as members are quick to point out. Oh well …still the best Z site by far…
  7. Andy...I did not do any of the mods on this car this is just the way she came to me, so as far as why the springs sit where they do its just a result of the sum of the parts i guess..as far as suspension travel i can let you know when the car is off the stands. Pictures? I have a few...
  8. HA!! You guys are killing me...it wont take much to convince me to leave at that height. so what about the stiffer springs? just feels like the 150# in the front don't have a chance against the illuminas. hopefully i will have it back on the ground this weekend and see if the new balljoints make a difference..not sure on that one, but couldn't even move the old ones without a hammer..
  9. Thanks for all the input guys..so far my thinking is this, the car is to low, i love the look and have owned more than a few slammed rides but this one needs to come up a wee bit. I think i have found a set of 200# springs so those will go in the back and the 175# can ride up front. Also think i will take off the burned out 225/45/16's and fit 225/50/16's not sure on that one though. The rear fenders are rolled and have a little flare (not my favorite thing about this car) so i don't think rubbing will be that big a problem. Camber plates may be in the future but have only driven this thing for about 30min total (started snowing as soon as i got it off the trailer) so i need a little more seat time before i figure out where to inject the cash, so for now waiting on a few parts from MSA...240hoke you have one of my all time favs...drooled over your car many times...way nice...
  10. Well I finally got around to getting fronts out so now I know what its made of. Springs are 2.5x10 at 150# and they do have the top hat that fits in the end of the isolator. Struts are sectioned with the spring perch welded on 5.75 in from the bottom of the strut, I believe these are the 240 struts. The bumpsteer spacer is ¾ in thick and the inserts are illuminas BZ1073 for the VW. The struts aren’t leaking and seem to be smooth enough. I was also pleasantly surprised to find ALCA’s already on the car…cool. The only real problem I can see is the totally blown out to the point of binding control arm ball joints, also the gland nuts were just finger tight. So I guess unless someone tells me this setup just isn’t worth it I will replace the ball joints, and see if I can get it to feel right.
  11. Thanks again guys, still trying to find the time to work this one out...nazgule6 the rims are sportmax 002's 8x16 0 offset, tires are 225/45's
  12. Thanks Jon for another great answer, makes perfect sense. I don’t have a problem running theses if I can make it work. The ride in the front is just unbearably hard and wanders all over the road. I know I need to address the camber if its going to be this low but I was thinking of going with LCAs to avoid hacking up the car. Is the theory that the lighter springs cranked up will make the car stiffer than need be at the same height? This thing just has no give …Or am I just lost?
  13. Well something was way wrong with the suspension on this car as soon as I drove it and now we see the damage, but the cause is a bit of a mystery for me. This is a ground control setup as far as I can tell, I believe the strut housings are 280z sectioned but I have to figure out how much was taken off. Both fronts are wasted and the rears are rubbing just not near as bad. Springs are Eibach 10†175# Rears and 150# up front. Inserts are unknown at this point. From what I can find around the site this is to light a spring rate, could that cause this kind of damage? Not sure why it would. Anyway looks like I will be looking for some parts soon and don’t want to see this happen to the new stuff. Any ideas are appreciated…Thanks
  14. Prefect, thanks guys! I like the fact that these are Z parts and since my main short term goal is to sort out the suspension these will be sticking around for a while. After I got the car up on stands for the first time last night I was glad to see the R200 diff and suspect most (if not all?) of the rear end is from the same 280z…nice. Hope to get the rear coilover’s off tonight and see what there made of…Thanks again
  15. Well I introduced myself in the new members forum so may as well jump right in...Does anyone know what this setup is? Think its worth keeping? Sure is ugly, and small, like the E brake though. Thanks in advance..
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