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stinky

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About stinky

  • Birthday 11/12/1981

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  1. I've got an HY35X on my Z31. For the price I like it but its definitely a truck turbo. The turbo is built beefier(heavier) than most hybrids and performance oriented turbos. As a result it doesnt give the best response but it does haul butt. I get full boost by ~3200rpm if I give it time to spool in 4th. Not sure how the H1C compares though.
  2. If you have the title just call the junkyard. Around here (Florida) they will send a truck to pick it up. They might even give you some money for the scrap metal. Having the title is the trick though.
  3. Yeah all the z31 transmissions use the starter bolted to the block.
  4. Roastin, The only thing I wouldnt like about megasquirt at this point is that, as far as I've seen, it doesnt support coil on plug and sequential injection. You can do wasted spark and batch injection but I have a feeling it's not going to be easy or ideal on the vh45. If/when they release the router board for the MS you should be able to do sequential injection and COP. As far as stock wiring goes its actually been very easy so far. You'll want to have the stock s13 harness and a full vh45 engine harness. The VH45 harness should fit in the stock s13 firewall port. You'll need to cut out the section of the s13 harness that runs to the relay box and run that in with the vh45 harness. That part of the s13 harness provides the power and such from the relays and ignition switch. There is a relay or two that is used on the vh45 but I'm bypassing them. Hopefully that wont cause any problems later. As far as the AT stuff I think the engine will be fine without it. The q45 (90-94?) has a seperate at control unit. I see no reason why there will be a problem and i havent heard of anyone having one yet. The (91-93) vh45 ecu is very similiar to the z32 ecu. I've run across a couple people that have reprogrammed them so I dont think itll be any harder than the z32 ecu. The romulator should work and Nistune will likely support it as well.
  5. Technically the bellhousing is not removeable. However, that entire part of the transmission casing is interchangeable between the z31t and z32 trans. Although I dont remember for sure I'm guessing you're right about the bolt patterns being the same. At the very least you can probably use the adapter plate with only minor changes if any. The starter could also be an issue if you stick with the z31 housing.
  6. Roastin, IF you can find a z32 bellhousing (good luck) it will directly bolt on to the z31t (87-89) transmission. That would be the easiest way to get the z31 trans on. If I remember correctly the z31 na trans and the s13 trans are basically the same. Also the z31t trans have the shifter located roughly the same as the z31na trans. So it's reasonable to assume that the shifter location of the s13=z31na=z31t. Now the question would be can you get the transmission back as far as the stock s13 trans would be using the adapter on the vh45. I have a feeling it will be close. BTW here are some more pics of our 450sx swap. I got most of the ecu wiring done last night. We have spark and fuel. We just need to get all the crazy intake piping put together and we can crank her over. http://www.ibconceptions.com/q45/thumbs.php
  7. This seems to be a very common problem. We had a track event where a portable dyno showed up. They had a big fancy trailer with fold up sides, lcd screens to display graphs, and a printer to print out your graph. The only fan they had was a small 12"? blower that sat to the side of the car. Oh, and it was a dynojet. I think most customers just dont think about what affect the heat is having on their car.
  8. Was this on the Mustang dyno you went to? Here's my guess. I think you mentioned that the dyno operator entered in a a lower weight than what your car actually weighs. That being the case it would have thrown off the ramp rate to something much faster than what you would see on the road. Is it possible this faster ramp rate would have allowed things to happen too fast so that the engine/ic/other components didnt heat up as much as they would have with a slower ramp rate? This would allow for more timing and less fuel with no detonation. Now this question goes to the Zensport and other tuners. Had they tuned his igntion/fuel by doing steady state load I assume this would not be a problem. In fact wouldnt steady state tuning heat the components more than might happen on the street and result in a safer tune?
  9. This is an awesome post. This is the sort of thing I love to see from good dyno (Dyno Dynamics, Dynapac) owners. My buddy and I have recently opened a shop and a Dyno Dynamics single retarder dyno is planned in the near future. I have some quick questions for you. - When tuning very light load areas how low of a load can the dyno hold. Is the dyno able to hold the rpm steady at near idle loads? Do you tune these lower rpm load points on the dyno? - Do you many customers complaining about the DD reading lower than Dynojets?
  10. I'm not fimiliar with the AEM unit but I do have the LM-1 with the rpm converter. In my opinion the best way to use the wideband is to log the data during your runs and analyze it later. This is most useful when you are logging other inputs as well (rpm, boost, afm/map voltage). This is the only way you can really see whats going on with your motor and ecu which is the whole point of having a wideband. Looking at a gauge while you are shooting down a road isnt a safe or accurate way to monitor your AFRs. Anyway, my point is that which ever unit you get should have good logging functions and good software. I dont know about the AEM but I do know the LM-1 has both.
  11. 16 sounds about right. I run about the same on my vg30et at around that boost level. Same turbo and ic btw. Keep in mind your particular engine combination (turbo, ic, pistons, exhaust) is different from most everyone else so its hard to compare. If you have the opportunity to dyno tune that will tell you exactly where you need to be. As it is I think youre about right as long as its not detonating and you dont have to run an extremely rich mixture. Try advancing it a bit and see what happens.
  12. The z31 na and t disks are identical. BTW you should have just pocketed the disk. One way or another I usually get my moneys worth for the $2 admission fee at my local yard.
  13. stinky

    z31 swap

    There is not better motor that easily goes in the z31. Same goes for the transmission. The ka/sr transmissions are the same as the nonturbo z31 transmissions so theres no point.
  14. Easiest thing would be to use the stock ecu and harness from the J30. You might need to lenthen the wires or relocate the ecu but its going to be easier than trying to get the other ecu working. Wiring up the power, fuel pump, tach, and other external stuff will be the hard part.
  15. First let me say that there is nothing wrong with a grainger mbc. If you take the time to adjust it and play a bit it should work very well. As far as tuning here's my take. A friend and I are working on opening a shop and we had a talk with a Dyno Dynamics rep recently. This guy charges near $1000 a tune and does mostly higher end stuff. He was nice enough to talk tuning with us for a bit. After our talk I realized how much can be gained by dyno tuning with a good dyno and a good tuner. Theres simply no way you can get the quality of tune by playing around on the street. Consider this. Each engine like a particular AFR for best power. My VG30 might like 12.5 while an L28 may like 12.0. On a good load dyno you can hold the ecu in each load/rpm cell and modify the fuel table until the engine reaches its highest output. I dont know how anyone can hope to do that by doing runs down the road using a butt dyno. The same goes for timing. A few degrees of timing can make big difference in power and also safety. You cant possibly hope to find your ideal ignition timing on the road. A few degrees too much and you lose power and start detonating. Too little timing and your lose power and have higher egts. It all comes down to having an accurate way of measuring changes in a controlled environment. You can't do that with any butt dyno. In the end all you will do is spend a lot of time and money to get a tune that can cause damage to your engine and has lots of room for improvement. My suggestion is this. Get a boost controller installed and make sure your engine is in good running order. Once you are comfident that your engine is up to producing the power you want then you are ready to get it tuned. Find yourself a shop that has a good LOAD dyno. If the dyno can't steadily hold your car at X rpm, under X boost, and tell you the current power output you need to go elsewhere. If the shop doesnt have someone who knows how to tune your ecu then find someone that is willing to go to the shop to do it. Once your VE is straight and your actual AFR matches the fuel map the tuner should go through each individual cell of your ecu and tune the fuel and ignition for that particular rpm and load. Doing it on the dyno ensures that each cell is accurately tuned and that even the cells you wouldnt normally hit on the road are tuned incase you do hit them at any point. If you have the tuner do this all the way up to whatever your max boost is you should end up with the best tune you could possibly have. It might cost you a bit but I think the gains would be worth it. Anyway...I'm losing my train of thought. I think you get my point. Get the dyno tune done right and you'll be happier. Just make sure you go to someplace with a good load dyno. Inertia dynos just dont cut it.
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