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HybridZ

Peternell

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Everything posted by Peternell

  1. I’m in the middle of my 74 260 swap that was originally intended to be a drag car only, but I figured I could tone it down a little and enjoy it on the street too. So, now I’m looking for suggestions on hood scoop options. These don’t necessarily have to be on a Z car yet, just your ideas and remember-at this point no idea is a bad idea. When submitting suggestions please consider the following: I’m a Chevy man first, GM fan second; The big 3 made some cool scoops in the 60’s and early 70’s; Scoop must actually increase clearance; Noticeable is fine obnoxious is out; Different is GOOD; I intend to modify my (nearly perfect) existing hood rather than purchase a finished hood (remember the different is good theory); Please post ideas and photos or links to photos or e-mail your photos directly to me at ldpelp@yahoo.com Thanks
  2. Go to "www.mortec.com" for all of your Chevy casting number info. Date codes are located on the passanger side transmission mounting flange of the block. 305's weren't made until 1977. Newer SBC have the size cast into the transmission mounting flance on the driver side. (look for 5.7 and avoid 5.0) In junk yards look for the large 8" balancer, which is usually, but not a sure sign of a 350 or 400 (most basic 350's have a smaller balancer but the 305's don't have the 8"er) 400's can be identified by an 8" balancer with some material missing to allow for external balance and by 3 freeze plugs on 70-72 engines (which are 4-bolt main) or 73-78 engines with 2 freeze plugs and a casting boss but no plug for the 3rd, or 79-80 engines with only 2 freeze plugs and a #509 cast on the side of the block. Hope that helps.
  3. I'm finally starting the V-8 conversion of my 1974 260Z. I bought the car with the JTR manual with the sole intent of a V-8 conversion. The car will be a drag car first and street legal second (cornering is not a concern and smog laws are not applicable in my location). I've gutted the car (no engine, trans, interior, wiring, heater, etc) and will only replace what is needed to make it run. I intend to use this as my drag car for several years so the engine will start out modest and grow until my budget dries up or common sense prevails. I've made the JTR motor mounts per the book. I plan (don't laugh) to use the frame rails from a Chevelle narrowed to fit the 260Z. This is my low budget solution to several concerns linked to a high torque/horsepower conversion in a unibody car. A Ford 9" will be utilized along with a TH400. I have the parts to build either a 377 (350 crank-400 block) or a 406, but am leaning to the 406. QUESTIONS: Does a car this light need/can it use the torque of a 406 or would a higher reving 377 be the way to go? The JTR manual says you can not uses an 8" balancer, but I must use that with the 406 and would like to use an 8" balancer if I go with the 377. What modifications are needed to use the 8" balance while installing the engine with the JTR motor mounts? Starter clearance is also a problem. I've obtained a balance plate that allows use of the 153 tooth flexplate w/o having to internally balance the 400 crank. I need to turn over a 11:1+ engine when its hot. What are some suggestions for a starter? Brand? Source? Does anyone sell a 8-10 point roll cage kit for this car that meets NHRA specs? Who? How much? Or maybe just plans? I have all the 9" parts except gears-I was thinking of 4.30s or 4.56s. How narrow can/should I make the rear end? Tire size-how big (tall & wide) can I use? Any thoughts on gearing? About how much would a gutted 260Z with the above mentioned parts weigh? Any other thoughts or suggestions? Am I missing something or do my plans include major flaws? Thanks [This message has been edited by Peternell (edited December 15, 2000).]
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