Peternell

Ford V-8 soleniod. About $10 @ NAPA. One $.25 brass piece to jump accross the Chevy soleniod and starter connections.

YES! Thanks "dmanzo57" and the gang for the responses. Now I can a) fix my Chevelle & get to the wiring of my 260Z which I have been postponing until I solved this problem. I thank you, the Z thanks you and the NHRA tech guys will thank you

Slow down guys-take me through this slowly cause apparently I'm a little electrically challenged. Here's the set up: Battery in the truck Master cut off switch on the rear trunk panel on the + 2o welding led for a battery cable to Ford solenoid mounted on passanger firewall Battery led connects to "A" side of solenoid MSD 6AL box (coil connected to box)gets main power from "A" side of solenoid MSD box only hot when key is in Start or On position Altenator is a 63A internal regulator w/#1(main led) & #2(excitor wire) connected via small gauge wire Main altenator led (#1) goes back to "A" side of the solenoid Volt gauge connected in normal fashion FYI Electric fuel pump with low oil pressure shut off switch. All works fine (charging, starting) UNTIL, I Kill the battery switch and it still keeps running. Help, and please talk slow!

Hey BLKMGK, Thanks I was hoping for insight on the specific question (which I'm getting) and in the course of answering it you also provide me a with the solution to my battery "not so" shut off switch on my Chevelle. Battery in the trunk, bulkhead, shut off switch, ford soleniod-works great to cut the juice for electrical work BUT doesn't serve the intended purpose. Thanks for the idea.

Try Art Morrison at "ArtMorrison.com". I contacted them about a 10 point cage (what most others call a 12-point cage) for my 260Z and although the did not have the measurement in the computer for an assembly line piece, they would make what I wanted. They faxed me a 2 page sheet with all the critical measurements needed. Take the measurements, send it back along with your hard earned money and there you go. Add $100 to their price for the custom job. Kinda wish I had gone that route, cause the cage I order from Jeg's has yet to make it to me although both Jeg's and Roadway Express say THEY don't have it.

Very well said Brad-ManQ45, and I quote "Well Done Scottie! I have been impressed with your dedication, and even more with your engineering abilities. You, along with a number of others here have been an inspiration to any number of members of this forum, and I would like to take this chance to thank all of you collectively for your willingness to share your experience, knowledge and humor. Everyone - and you know who you are - THANKS!"

Anybody?? Gotta work out other details (ie battery and fuel cell) while I wait for Jeg's and Roadway Express to complete the never ending search for the missing parts to my cage. Can't complete the 10 point cage with just the main hop and the halo. Thanks

Smog Inspection, I don't need no stinking Smog Inspection. As said before check your State regs. Large metro areas in Washington require testing, while the rural portions have none. Getting ready to rip the remaining smog junk of my full sized 85' GMC Jimmy, just couldn't resell it in Seattle.

Been wrong before, but here goes. 4150 & 4160 refers to the Model Number. These are both square bore carbs. The 4150's use a secondary metering block w/jets, whereas the 4160's use a metering plate (no jets to adjust) The List Number identifies specific's of the carb such as cfm, butterfly and venturi size, etc. The double pumper carbs share a commom baseplate from 650 through 800 cfm (1 11/16" butterflys) with varing venturi sizes The 850cfm DP uses an 1 3/4" butterfly and I believe the 600DP is 1 9/16". The vacuum secondary carbs don't share same size baseplates over a varity of cfm ranges, partially because the cfm jumps from 600 to 750, 780, 830 and 855cfm (Yes Ford guys I know there are also 715 and 735cfm units out there) The 600cfm has 1 9/16" butterflys and the 750's and 780's have the 1 11/16" butterflys. If you want the Proform main body and 750 cfm, I'd suggest buying a Holley List #3310 on E-Bay for $40-$60 and swapping in the new and improved main body. Now for the sales pitch. I just happen to have a #3310 (780cfm w/ secondary jets) that the air horn was milled off and the venturi's smoothed/flowed together that I was gonna recolor with the Eastwood carb renew and sell on E-Bay. Probably would fetch no more than the cost of the main body your considering and you could sell the old 600 to offset some of the costs. E-mail me at "ldpelp@yahoo.com" if your interested

I've got a set of the rams horn manifolds that are required for the JTR position. I'd sell em' to ya cheap (contact me off-line) and you could get them milled OR you could hunt them down locally and save some bucks (look in late 60's Chevy trucks, don't look past big old ugly 2+ ton trucks either) The left hand angle dump is not that hard to find, well at least around here. E-mail me @ ldpelp@yahoo.com

For those that have a battery and/or fuel cell in the rear on their car AND have passed NHRA tech OR are confident their car will pass, what is the aceptable method to seperate the passenger compartment from the battery and fuel cell?? As I read my 1995 rule book (new membership for Christmas)a bulkhead must seperate these two areas. I installed a bulkhead in my Chevelle and passed (tech looked at the switch, but didn't check operation), BUT how does this work with the rear hatch? The hatch comes down and meet flush with the divider-is that acceptable? Oh yeah, another NHRA tech question. Anybody have problems with that NO Welded Spider Gears rule? I've got Scottie-GNZ's old 3.36 R-200 "Lincoln Locker" and believe he didn't have tech problems with it, but I also don't know how tough the tech guys were at "His" track. Any comments gang? Scottie?? The tech seem to be a little stricter in Division #6 than some of the stories I've read about here ... ie, never let you run into the 10's (or 9's) w/o a cage like the do in some part of Texas. I'd prefer to error on the side of caution, in case, heaven forbid, I actually won a race and a sore loser called me on a tech violation.

THANK YOU Grumpy!!

Where did you get the gauges? (please don't tell me they are refaced originals-I gave mine away) I like the dual volts/fuel gauge

Scottie, I've been wondering about your progress. Looks great-what your don't like the "rear steer" feature. Like usual, you got the problem AND solution identified before most of us would gotten past the initial fustration! FYI your old parts are starting to take shape in the my 260. Hopefully Mrs. Claus reads my list with the digital camera as the #1 non-automotive suggestion and I can show you some of the progress.

Hey, Grumpyvette, I've read nearly all of your posts and thought about replying earlier but haven't. Just wanted to say THANKS for Sharing your knowledge with us (well at least me) on this board. Your info is: Relevant; Correct; Helpful; on and on.... Not to say others haven't also provided very good and creditable info (I also thank those people too) but I value your input. THANK YOU (now back to our regularly scheduled Rod length discussion)

The 18 circut I put in my Chevelle was a complete harness. One group of wires runs to the rear (tailights, fuel sender, fuel pump....), one grouping runs to the engine compartment (headlights, solinod, coil, fans....) and one is to the gauges, radio and ignition switch, power windows...) The wiring is for the + side and you must supply and route the grounds. One harness does it all.

Jason, I didn't buy it, "Demidion" did, I just found it and posted it. I agree, this might be an item for escrow services. Maybe an local fellow HybridZ member is in the area and could ckeck it out for the fellow member? Or maybe Demidion got enough info and feels confident with the seller. I've done a lot of deals on E-Bay (nearly 100)and have yet to get burned. The one who complained about the engine only has done 3 E-Bays deals, and info on the item and purchase price is gone. Several factors such as newbies paying way too much for items, buyers lack of knowledge, unrealistic expectations on the buyer part, etc. could lead to a buyer felling they got hosed. But then it could have also been a case of the Seller selling junk.

Not mine, just thought the gang may be interested. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=598618609

Thanks for all the effort James! Take a gold star out of petty cash. I'll be waiting to read what you discover.

DavyZ, We couldn't have done it without you! Seriously almost 2500 posts, heck your 1/4 of the board!!

Compression, may not be what you think it is. If the compression is too low for the cam then you've found some or your problems. (I'll let the cam guru's [are you listening kevin] address that issue) The 327's and most mid and late 60's engines made compression by using smaller 64cc chambers (The 11:1 motors also used pop up pistons) The 487's and 487X's have the much larger 76cc heads which will drop your compression (technical phrase here) a "bunch" Just my $.02, wait and see what others say

Thanks for looking the info up, BUT those are the numbers I've also got from the Holley web site. I'm not looking for the reorder numbers but the 4-digit numbers that are stamped on each metering block. I've got lots of main bodies and metering blocks and trying match then up correctly. Thanks for the info!

James, thanks for the response. (Andrew thanks also for your e-mail) My books and info cover most everything you've listed EXCEPT items #4 [Primary Metering Block] and #5 [secondary metering Block]. I'll include the List numbers below for the carbs I currently have questions on BUT what I'm really looking for is a book or info source that identifies these so I'm not dependent upon others to answere my questions as I obtain different carbs. What's your info source? Many of the carbs I'll list are complete, but are they correct?? The question is"What are the primary metering block #'s and secondary metering block #'s (where applicable) for the following carbs?" List # cfm 3916 950 3-Barrel 3418 855 vacuum secondaries 3310 780 true 780's w/secondary jets 1850 600 basic old standby I've had 4 three barrels in the last year (sold 2) and the 4 primary metering blocks had 3 different numbers. Same with many 1850's I've had in the last few years. Specific answers are welcomed, BUT I'd love to know what book or info source your using. Thanks Larry

Call me crazy but I'm gonna try these rods. 6" fully prepped rods w/ARP Waveloc bolts for $175.00 to your door. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597876611&r=0&t=0 What would the ARP bolts, hone and bush and resize cost for the 351 rods? A friend built an oddball stroke Ford ( I mention this cause your considering Ford rods) and used Mopar 340 rods (6.125"). These have similar side widths to the Chevy rods. Another option seems to be the Ford 300 6-banager rods, which are 6" and can be had cheap!

How much is the desktop dyno?? Where's the best (ie cheapest and fastest) source? I know it's just a computer model, but all the options you can consider are getting me "Jonesing" for it.