Peternell

What I sent to Evan, Pete and Clint is not accurate but it's a Z car in AUTOCAD. This isn't what you were looking for in terms of accurate detail, but others that have seen it seem to at least smile. I will be going with the R-200 CV disc rearend for now, but this was drawn when it was to be a tubed/back halfed/9"/spend all you money type of project. Accurate-No, but an accurate drawing seems to be of some use to the HybridZ gang, so I will start taking measurements and create an accurate drawing. This is just more of something to look at on a Friday afternoon.

Evan, you've got mail.

Getting ready to install a vacuum gauge and was wondering about vacuum line size to the gauge. The Autometer gauge came with a cheezy plastic 1/8" line, but I have 1/4" braided line I planned to use. Will the larger (although only slightly) line affect the gauge readings?? Your replies please cause the gauge goes in this weekend and the carb tuning follows thereafter. Thanks

The parts you've mentioned will swap from the 1850 to 3310 & visa versa. The secondary spring may not be right because of the increased vacuum signal the 600 w/the smaller venturi's will provide. I've read (have yet to try it) that a trick was to take a base plate of a large carb and put it on a smaller carb (ie 600 body on 750 baseplate) This was done with 660 center squirter bodies onto 850 center squirter bases. Helps to increase the vacuum signal or increase the air flow while maintaining acceptable vacuum.

Where in Washington are you?? I'm in the Tri-Cities. I could fax you the NHRA stuff, which unless I'm wrong (and it wouldn't be the first time) a cage passing NHRA spec's would also pass IHRA spec's.

Zfan is right. If it's a DZ motor (engine code) then jump on it, regardless if you plan to use it or not. Yes a 302 will cost quite a bit more to rebuild than a 350, but sell the 302 to someone looking to restore a 67-69 Z/28 and you'll be bucks ahead! If you really want a 302 put a 283 crank in a small journal 327 block, but don't loose the inherent value of an original DZ motor. For the right person thats a $1,500-$2,500 engine. Take the money and run. If it's not an original DZ engine, then ask some questions like: Is it a 4-Bolt block, which would work great for a 350 build and what's the bore and what will it clean up at? Are the heads good [ie camel hump: 462, 291, 186, 492) or the (68 only 040's)]? Is it a steel crank and if so what is the stroke? Many people "think" they have a 302 but it's a 283 or 327 or a plan old 350 (heasven forbid a 305) or a small journal 283/327 combo. Look closer.

If it's FREE it's me. I've got an HEI I just pulled out of my full size 85' Blazer that you can have for the cost of shipping. Vacuum advance but the extra wires to a ESM (goofy computer). Will work just fine w/o the connection. Right guys?? Working fine when the whipped 350 w/rebuilt 305 heads (I bought the truck with this engine and never really liked it) was replace about a month ago with a 50K mile 400. I'm in Washington State so the shipping may not be too bad. Just a thought.

Injected Alcohol dragster OR the 4 radial engines of the restored B-17 that flew overhead not long ago

A Z-car rearend, if up graded to the later years will hold up quite well to mid 11 second 1/4 mile times w/o breaking. (some go much faster but break parts) I'm speaking of the R-200 differentials found in the 1975 and later cars. I to was initially looking at narrowing a 9" for the Z, but the cost of narrowing is only the beginning. Got have better gears and a posi and the rear suspension to go with improved rear end also. I'm thinking if your on a budget and the 318 is from a 73 truck it's not too hopped up - well at least not yet. Likewise a rearend fro a 73 truck w/a 318 my be strong but does it have the right gears and is it a posi, if not get out the checkbook. I'd say hit a boneyard and grap ALL the rear suspension parts out of a 75 and later Z w/the larger R-200 rearend and go from there. Remember this advice is worth what you paid for it.

Just my $.02, better input from others should be considered. Complete is a relative term, but the "just needs headers and carb" phrase and hopefull $3,000 price limit also leaves out: 400 balancer, 400 flexplate, Distributor, Fuel Pump, Water Pump, Starter,Pulleys, Brackets, ...... From what I've read here the heads are pretty good, but I question using the shorter 400 (5.565") rods, even with ARP bolts and the cast pistons. Just my opinion - it's worth what you paid for it.

Anybody hear of or use the "Schaeffer's" products??? I've got a co-worker who now swears by the stuff.

Like BlueOval said the secondary's should not be felt. Typically if your FEEL them opening, you are FEELING the bog cause by them opening to fast (I believe). The secondaries shouldn't open with the car in park/neutral by just revving the engine (a no load-vacuum sorta thing) You've got two options to check if the secondaries are opening. A) Put a paper clip on the secondary shaft just below the vacuum pod, take it out for a drive and check the location of the paper clip. If its in the middle of the shaft (between the base plate and the vacuum pod) then they have opened. If its still in the same position, well you get the idea. OR Get a friend, brother-in-law or neighbor to ride under the hood and watch the secondaries as you race the car through the neighborhood.

I'm in on the group purchase too, IF they fit a TH350 or TH400. I'd like the 3" collectors, but if the group goes 2.5" I'd go along. What do these custom modifications do to the $250+ price?? Anyone taking the lead on this?

I say we at HybridZ confer an Honorary PhD in "Small Block-ology" or "Engine-ology" or "Relevant Link-ology" to Grumpyvette. Ever think about teaching? Heck, maybe you already do!

Sold em for the purchase price of the car, $500. It was running but blowing smoke and had an Auto trans, but the guy was a Z nut and wanted the dual carbs and the extra engine to rebuild while he drove his car. Worked for me

Just my $.02 Why would anyone put a 283 in a z when you can just as easily put in a 327, 350, 383 etc? Because: 1) They had it; 2) They like the high RPM's a short 3" stroke delivers; 3) They make think a 283 can make more than enough power for a 2,400 lbs car; Is this a poor choice of engine, or is it possible to get 300+ HP? 300 HP yes, how much, well its cost more to get power out of less. This is a case where less is less. What heads/cam/intake would it take to do this? AH Grumpyvette I here your name being called. Is the 283 substantially lighter than any other sbc? NO! A small block is a small block in terms of weight Should I run away and not look back? NO! If it's set up right in your perspective (engine location, good conversion, good body & interior, rear end) and the price is right, I'd look closer. The conversion is already done so if the 283 does not meet your needs replace it. The ignition, exhaust, cooling, transmission issue are already addressed. I'd say look closer. Personally I'd consider what it would cost to put a 350, 377 or 406 in it but I'm into drag racing. Others might feel that a 283 would make a good daily driver in a 2600lbs car.

OK Grumpyvette, I'll bite. Please expand on the GEARS comment. I'm building a 406 w/a TH 400 for drag racing w/stock wheel wells w/drag radials. I've got a 3.36:1 R-200 (thanks Scottie-GNZ) and a 3.90:1 R-200. Heck I could find a 3.54, 3.70 or 4.11 if need be. Also the car would see both 1/8 and 1/4 mile tracks. (I know tire size thru engine torque specs are needed) but: GENERALLY what's my best gear ratio?? Steeper gears for quicker acceleration applies to situations where tire sizes is relatively unlimited, but w/the Z wheel wells and 25" tires would a 3.90 or 4.11 car be over geared??

I had to get a marine manifold repaired due to freeze cracks. New ones were $300 each so $40 at a local welding shop seem to be a deal. They heated up to 300 degrees for several hours, then welded it. Didn't see the process just the finished product and a very reasonable bill.

I've got a 67' Chevelle that pulls 2.3 to 2.5 60-foot times on street tires and runs 104mph in the quarter. I could fine tune it a little better, change the converter and run slicks, but I'd still have a 3680 lbs car with the aero dynamics of a brick wall. Don't get me wrong I love my Chevelle but, I didn't make the laws of physics nor do I know how to defy them, so that is why I'm putting a 406/TH 400 w/an R-200 in my 260Z. Weight & Aero dynamics* - advantage z car Power to weight ratio - advantage Z car Hook Up - advantage** Z car Winner - Z car (Prediction voided by the following: blue bottle, blower, completed gutted car, liberal usage of fiberglass body panels, unduely high compression for the street(12.5:1 +), Fred Flinstone sized rear tires. Also I cant stress this enough. You gotta check for stickers before you run em'. Pay special attention for windshiled stickers that say "Chevelle" or "Chevy" or "Heavy Chevy") * (Aero dynamics are not an issue until 80+ mph, right??) ** (assumes fairly stock rear suspension, ie no 4-link)

18 and older I'd hope

I agree, Grumpy has probably forgoten more about engines then I'll know. I thank you for sharing what you've learned. Additionally Grumpy is not the only good source of info on this board, there are several. Scottie GNZ comes to mind. Anyway thanks for sharing

By no means do I consider myself an Expert, but here "B What eye no" I'm building a 406 so I do have some insight on this. Due to the larger mains on the 400's, the shaft is narrower in the mid section. I have purchased a inexpensive oil pump shaft w/a steel collar that does fit all SBC. The shaft is narrower in the mid section to accomidate the 400 but this in no way effects use in the 265-350 blocks. I've got an extra stock 400 oil pump shaft I'll send you for the cost of shipping (probably a couple of bucks) E-mail me off line if interested, otherwise just look at the photos and if the shaft is narrower in the mid section, well there you go. You might search E-Bay also, thats where i got mine and it was a melling shaft for around $10 including shipping.

Me three Davy. (translation "Davy would you be kind enough to also send me the photo in question? Thank you."

I ordered the 10 point cage for $199 and got hit for $99 shipping. Roadway Trucking lost 2/3's of the material which worked out to be a blessing, provided they pay my claim in a timely manner. I got the main hop and halo, but none of the straight tubing and they will refund all but $80. I'm glad they at least delivered the pieces with mutiple bends. Anyway the pieces got in this weekend so I'll keep you posted on their fit. You might consider going to "ArtMorrison.com" for $100 extra bones they send you a 2 page layout and you tell them the exact dimensions and angles and they will make it your way. Was gonna go that way but cheaped out. In hindsight I'd have been done with the cage by now. Shoulda, Coulda, Woulda!

Way to go with the T56. Lucky you on the delivery, roadway is still looking for most of my roll cage.