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johnc

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Posts posted by johnc

    Floor pan/frame rail/firewall joining location with rusted hole

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    You are looking down into the frame rail through that hole. That section is actually two box sections running fore/aft, one on top of the other.

     

    You need to:

     

    1). inspect and determine the extent of the rust.

    2) determine if the time and effort required is worth it.

    3) cut out all the rust.

    4) fabricate the replacement pieces.

    5) weld them in.

    6) grind the external areas smooth.

    7) rust proof.

    8) prime and paint.

    I Dont Sell Tokico Products!

    in Announcements

    Posted

    For some reason a half-dozen newbies have hit me up this week via PM asking if I sell this stuff.  Not since 2011.  Nobody has their products right now in the USA.  Tokico screwed up their distribution channel 3 years ago and have not recovered.  They are advertising on LinkedIn for two or three manager positions so it looks like the key people have quit or were fired.

     

    Buy KYB, Koni, Bilstein, Monroe, or STAGG.

     

    Just don't ask me, I don't sell that stuff.

    Suspension Techniques vs MSA Sway Bars

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    A few years ago my thinking moved away from a bigger rear bar.  A lot depends on what type of rear diff you're running.  With a welded diff you need a bigger rear bar to get the car to rotate under trail braking.  With a good clutch pack LSD that has a low breakaway or a ATB you want a much smaller rear bar.  IMHO, the S30 will turn faster lap times with more roll stiffness up front.
     

    Toward the end of the RODs life with me I was running a Quafe ATB and a 1 1/8" front anti-roll bar and a 5/8" adjustable rear anti-roll bar set at full soft.  Springs were 375 up front and 300 in back.  The car felt dead and pushy on corner entry but came out of corners hard with a nice set.  Lap times improved.

     

    For a street car things are different.  You can't run enough spring on a street car so you need a bigger anti-roll bars.  Also, people without much racing experience confuse a neutral handling car with an oversteering car.  A neutral handling car will step out in back if you lift off the throttle in a corner.  An oversteering car will step out in back in a corner - period.

    Stuck rear drums - stock 1973 240z

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Take a step drill bit and enlarge the hole in the outer face of the drum to about 3/4"  Drill it with the hole at about 2 o'clock.  Disconnect the e-brake cable from the clevis.  Turn the brake drum so the hole is at 6 o'clock.  Using a screw driver, push the e-brake lever down and away from the wheel cylinder.  If it keeps popping back up stuff some toothpicks in there to keep the lever down, away from the wheel cylinder.  Turn the brake drum to about 5 o'cock so you can get to the adjuster teeth.  Turn the teeth down (IIRC) to move the shoes away from the drum.

    Do I realy need a R200?

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    If the diff has an LSD and the tires are spinning, then the diff is not working hard.  A R180 in a road race application is limited to around 300 ft. lbs. of torque.  And at that level you need an oil cooler.  I know of a number of road racing STis running under 400hp who cooked their R180s.  That's with real sticky race slicks in a 3,100 lb. car.  Again, spinning tires means the diff isn't working hard.

    New S30 Shock and Spring Option

    in Vendor's Forum

    Posted

    I have no affiliation with this company, just posting a new option for shocks and springs.

     

    First shipment of the S30 application arrived. Should be able to order them soon. They have also had Vogtland wind a set of lowering springs. Street setup but probably decent for track days. Low priced and a good alternative to Tokico.

     

    I know the owner of Stagg personally and have worked on his 240Z. Jack is a racer and that RX7 is his car.

     

    http://staggshocks.com/

     

    I have not tested these.

    Any interest in a camber adjustable rear coilover? s30/s130

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    While in the strictest sense that's true, it doesn't have to, it only has to operate at a specific range of travel... AND you have to keep in mind how it acts in relation to how everything else acts...

     

     

    In the broadest sense its completely true.  Its basic geometry for a strut suspension.  And yes you are correct regarding a limited total range of travel (typically 2" for a race car and 4" for a street car) but ideally that range of travel is near the 90 degree angle between the strut and the LCA so you move in the narrowest camber gain/lost range (by design).

     

    When you squat the semi-trailing arm, you gain too much camber, you could negate this by having the coilover go more positive under squat conditions, thereby giving you the best grip for launching at drag racing.

     

     

    How would a coil-over shock affect the suspension geometry of a trailing arm suspension design?  Its not a structural part of the suspension like it is on a MacPhereson or Champan strut design.

     

    You could also have it set to maintain a specific negative camber in hard cornering on a car that doesn't normally squat (ie. stiff); if you had 3" of travel where there is next to no change, that would work well for road racing.

     

     

    You are completely ignoring camber loss in roll.  You have to have some camber gain in bump to counteract that inherent flaw in strut suspension design.  I'm beginning to think you don't know a lot about suspension and even less about road racing.

     

    And like helghast says, you can swap coilovers in and out as needed, the adapters even have a set screw boss on the top, so prior to disassembly, you can mark the camber, then reassemble at the exact same position.

     

     

    Yeah, +/- a degree or two ain't no big thing.

    New 6-point NHRA roll bar

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    I had a friend add a gusset in the middle of his 4 point bar to the map light area. Said it stopped all the interior panels creaking in the back end of the car. Just some anecdotal data with a sample size of 1.

     

     

    Technically that's not a gusset.  Its an additional attachment point and yes, that does help.  I had two from my roll bar in the ROD to the roof structure and it stopped all creaking and "C" pillar cracks.  Sample size is now 2.

    Need help with wheel bearings and stub axle.

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    My guess is lack of lube.  Failure in 70 miles is usually a lube issue.  There doesn't appear to be any residual grease in the bearing and the retainer looks blued from heat.  Did you pack grease into this bearing before installing it?   Its takes me about 5 minutes to properly get the grease into this bearing.

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