johnc
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Posts posted by johnc
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The front and rear shocks are the same part number.
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What are your spring rates? What are running on top of the shock (OEM insulators, something else?)
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Your choice should based on whether you want adjustable rebound damping only or adjustable rebound and compression. I've done shock dyno testing on the three 8610 and three 8611 versions and, IMHO, the 8610-1437 and the 8611-1259 have the closest to ideal valving for a 2,000 to 2,500 lb. s30 chassis with spring rates from 250 to 400 lb. in.
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Adding rake will increase down force (or reduce lift). How much and how much is enough and how much is too much? I don't know.
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My mistake. The 2002 STi used a viscous rear and I only saw one break line in the pic above through the side opening.
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I would extend the first oil change to 100 miles. Do more then just a series of 3rd gear pulls and coast downs. Idle, light throttle cruise, pulls through all the gears, etc. Run the motor cold, get the motor hot. Run on the freeway at a steady rpm for five minutes, changing the rpm by 500 every 5 minutes. Do it in the range of 3,000 to 5,000 rpm.
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That's a viscous diff.
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To echo the comments above, you most likely have a toe issue. Find a real alignment shop.
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I ran a distributor on my race engine as the trigger for a Motec M48 EMS. Mechanical timing was straight up with no mechanical advance, all timing was controlled by the EMS. New bronze gear on the crank, new steel gear on the distributor drive shaft.
Getting rid of the mechanical advance mechanism and running a good EMS solves all distributor timing scatter issues below 8,500 rpm based on my experience.
I did have a dist shaft breakage issue but I fixed that with some brass shim stock.
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More distance is helpful if the belts get to slow the acceleration - assuming a race seat and harnesses.
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Yes - mostly flat sheet metal vs thicker wall round tube. And the issue is more distance from the head then material your head hits. At a minimum you loose 2" of clearance to the bare bar.
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The X in the rear braces is not required, its just one option. Most folks run a diagonal in the plane of the main hoop and for a FIA cage they run one additional diagonal or the X brace pictured in the plane of the rear braces.
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Here are the spring rates:
The 240z rates are 152 fronts and 170 rears
The 280Z rates are 194 fronts and 230 rears
The 280ZX are 180 fronts 205 rears
The 84-89 300zx 157 fronts 183 rears -
I'm late to this... The stock engine crank centerline in the S30 is offset to the passenger side of the car.to line up with the rear diff. You might be creating a vibration problem by mounting your engine dead center in the engine bay. Line it up with the diff.
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No, they are most likely Vogtland but not a specific Datsun application. Probably some other application that has a good rate and the correct dimensions. Like the Moog Chevette springs a lot of people run as an OEM size upgrade for the stock Datsun springs.
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There is no best here on Hybridz. Rule 4.
What do you intend to do with the car? What horsepower goals? What rpm range for the power? What head work has been done? What cam? What induction?
See what I'm getting at?
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Those braces were used mostly on the RB25 block with the stamped steel pan, IIRC.
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Yup, I've sent Ben the drawings for the cut parts and today I'm packing up the fixtures, the extra parts I have, and shipping them probably tomorrow. Was supposed to do that over the weekend but Fathers day, family visiting, and a torn up backyard got in the way.
And Larrow... car on the road yet?
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Poor brakes guys still have to rough it
Funny! Rode up behind a group of these guys earlier this year in Death Valley. They were on the brakes non-stop coming down into Panamint Valley on the 190. I blasted past them on my Ducatti and stopped at the Panamint Springs Resort for a beer. Then pulled in later, brakes smoking on their 2014 BMWs, which weren't. They sat at the next table and I asked them why they were riding the brakes? Their reply was, "Bremsprufung in der Hitze" which I had to translate on my phone.
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Could be too much liquid fuel in the combustion chamber causing a mild hydroloc. If you have fuel running out the tailpipe you have serious carb problem.
Could also be a bad thrust bearing. Try starting in neutral with the clutch out and then starting it in gear with the clutch in. See if there is a difference in the noise.
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I am by no means a fuel injection or F1 expert. But I think at 100 bar the injected fuel can be so finely atomized that any additional length of intake track beyond the minimum necessary to meet the rules would have fuel drop out of the air stream. Also, there isn't much of an intake tract on F1 engines so we are talking a few millimeters of change in the position of the injector.
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I've seen a dozen Zs sell for over $40k in the last 5 years. As with early Porsches, condition is everything. We have people flat bed their their Dad's 1968 911 into our shop every month who want us to spend $1,000 to get it running so they can sell it for $250k. We tell them that their car needs $120k of work to get that price. The just shit themselves, "I don't have that kind of money! What's the car worth as is?" They never, ever like the answer.
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The single fuel injector is where it is in F1 because of regulations. Its must be in the intake tract, not the head which is where the engineers want it. They are also fuel pressure limited to 100 bar to prevent direct injection. If there were no technical regulations the designers would probably be at 500 bar for one or more direct injectors right into the combustion chamber.
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Use the clamp trick to figure out your ride heights and then weld the stock perch in that spot. Try to come up with about 2" of droop travel at the shock. Without knowing your spring rate you'll have to be careful about bump travel fr the coil bind issue. Progressive bumps stops as mentioned above is a great idea. Try every possible no point mod and cut out brackets, mounts, etc. to trim weight. Did that on a customer's E36 BMW and saved 80 lbs.!
Sectioned struts are too low, HELP! (PICS)
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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My instructions for strut shortening assume a normal race sized tire (225/50-15s) and a goal of improved handling and performance. I thought that was obvious by Wayne Bernstien's preface in the Strut Sectioning FAQ. When you start changing parameters (like increasing tire OD by 2" in your example) then you have to adjust. Terry's comments on the thread cover that.