danc
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Posts posted by danc
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Guys:
I've read several posts, but am still confused. I have a non-turbo 83 and have a line on 82 2 Turbo half shafts/CVs with the companion flanges, but without hub flanges/stub axles (car is already scrapped). Will the CVs fit my 83 using my stub axles with the turbo companion flange???
Thanx
Dan
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280zxt83:
I have a recently converted/running 83 with a Small Block Chevy Crate/700R4 automatic transmission with Motorsport Auto mounts. I talked to John a few times and concluded that I wasn't getting much of anything for a lot more money over MSA. There are some of ZX conversions out there. I have a post from last year (something like ZX conversion using MSA mounts) that is a grocery list of what I used. MSA instructions are pretty sketchy and missing some key info (such as dimpling the oil pan to clear 2 areas in the Rack & pinion steering. I also ended up having a minor drive-line vibration which was easily correcty by trimming the transmssion mount about an eight of an inch. At any rate, do read the Jags That Run Datsun V-8 Conversion Manual about a hundred times. The guys on this forum can and will help you thru the problems as they come up. The result is the car looks the same, but travels at semi-warp speed! Good luck..
Dan
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ellobo97:
I used Lokar Throttle and T.V. cable on my 83 SBC. Had to bend the gas peddle a little to get full throttle, but it works great.
Dan
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My 83ZX non-Turbo,5 Speed,GL has a 3:90:1.
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350ZX:
Suggest you use the search option for 300ZX Conversions and you'll find there are some out there.
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WhiskeyTango:
I was leaning towards a John's Cars Kit until I realized his "extras" don't in any way make up the several hundred dollar differences between his kit and the one from MSA I used on my 83 ZX. I've talked to John at least 3 times on the phone, and while he was direct, I didn't sense any attitude at all! I bought his "Z Carstellme NON-Illustrated "Manual" and it is Dogshit! Buy the JTR manual, read it several times to understand the scope and cost of this project,ask a lot of questions on this forum, and use the search feature (MSA Mounts as an example)to wade thru the problems as they occur. Good Luck.
Dan
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80'280ZX:
The JTR manual will give you a very good idea for the scope of the conversion even though it does not apply to the ZX in many respects. I have an 83 that has been running since last November, and the JTR manual (in addition to the guys on this forum) gave me the overall information I needed to tackle it. I'm using the MSA mounts, and am very pleased with the quality and fit. Check my entry from last May (ZX SBC using MSA mounts) for a grocery list of piece/parts I used. Good luck..
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labrat:
I have a recently converted 83 with an HEI distributor. The two wires I have hooked up are black with a white stripe to the Batt side of the HEI, and blue for the Tach side. Mine works fine.
Dan
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80'280ZX-Anniversary:
I recently got an 83 SBC "converted" car on the road after 10 months. It ended up a whole lot different than I originally envisioned in time, money and effort. The cost is largely dependent on how much you do yourself, and obviously how much you spend on piece parts. I have a "post" 21 May danc Subject: ZX SBC Conversion using MSA mounts that has some general lessons learned that you might want to take a look at. There are several guys on this forum who have converted ZXs, and they have lots of good info, as well as other guys who are working on a ZX conversion now. I did most of the work myself, and while I'm not a mechanic, I do have an engineering background. Read the JTR Conversion manual (several times), and as some of the other guys have said realize this is a major undertaking and effort, and you will likely spend a whole lot more than you expected. Having said all that as a very real caveat, I would without question do it again! Good luck.
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I'm using Heddman Tight Tube "D" ports with Aluminum Vortec heads that have angle plugs without a problem.
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83ZX350:
Suggest you use the search option and check out some of the ZX specific posts out there that might help answer some of your general questions.
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My 83 non-turbo 5 speed is a 3.90:1. Great launch with a SBC and a 92 g series van/700r4.
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Ross:
Thanks for the good info/suggestions. Struts are new, so I'll start looking at springs. My setup is a crate 350/385 H.P. Got the "hot-cam" 430 H.P. kit, but will wait until next spring to put that in. Understand what you are saying about non-functioning suspension. I'd like to keep it as "ride-able" as possible and that obviously means compromise on handling. I do appreciate the info! I'll have to check out your WEB site. I'll let you know when I post some pictures of my 83.
Trying to sort out a charging problem right now. Got it hooked up per JTR; the thickest ZX white wire running the external plug (back) of my 1 wire, and the thick wire running from the alt pigatil plug the the battery + post, but it's still not charging. The alternator is good, and so is the battery??? Battery charge lasts for about 15 minutes, so I haven't had a chance to see how the crate motor even runs yet.
Sounds like you have an awsome set-up. How long have you had it together? Any 1/4 mile times? What is your engine H.P.? No snow here in Dayton, Ohio yet. It's been in the 60's!
Dan
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Just got my 83ZX on the road, and as expected, have a lot of rear end squat under accelleration. What brands/part#s of springs and struts have you "ZX" guys used to improve that problem? My application is more straight line accelleration as opposed to cornering. I'd really like to keep the ride height as close stock as possible, and am looking for a compromise solution in handling and ride-ability. R front and rear strut tower braces worth the effort? Thanks for all the help over the last several months to get this thing on the road.
Dan
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83ZX350:
I just got an 83 SBC conversion on the road less than a week ago that I started in Feburary this year. (Now I are one)! Still have a few things to sort out, but it looks "factory", has around 430 horsepower and will undoubtedly be very fun, and a great metamorphosis of a car I've had and pampered since day one! I'm not a mechanic per se, and the only things I "contracted-out" were the driver's side hedder modification, exhaust fabrication, driveshaft modification, and the hood scoop! Everyone would tell you to read/re-read the Datsun Z V-8 Conversion Manual (http://www.JTRpublishing.com). The philisophy should give you enough confidence to take this project on, but many of the "tips" do not apply to the ZX, starting with the motor mounts. I have a 17 May post (ZX SBC using MSA mounts) that might offer some help. (As it turned out I didn't need/use the painless 700r4 lock-up kit, but everything else is pretty much the same). I'd be happy to provide whatever help I can. There are a couple of other "ZX" conversion guys who have lots of experience and will help you out!
My first piece of advice (if your car is solid)is to get a 1983 280ZX service manual (Haynes in comparison to the factory manual is dog-shit in my opinion)
and label all the wiring as you dissassemble the L28 fuel injection harness and accessories. There are tons of wires you don't need, and it would be a nightmare to sort out unless you speak fluent "Z" wiring. My wires went to the right "places" witout a problem. The only thing that isn't working is the temp gauge and I believe it's a bad sending unit. The range of dollars you spend on this conversion is as wide as your budget will allow. My "ending" engine configuration isn't close to what I had envisioned at the start. Whatever your budget, plan on spending more than your first vision. Guess the important aspect of this whole thing is to think a lot about what you want the end result to be, ask a lot of questions, and be realistic as to how much money and time you are willing to commit. Good luck!
Dan
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gbvol54:
I'm using the MSA motor mounts, but there is enough room between the fuel pump and motor mount on my 83 "ZX" for a "9 O'clock" 3/8" inlet position if you use a 90 degree fitting. Holley sells them thru Summit or Jegs and they have a gradual bend. Some of the other fuel pumps won't work because of the inlet position (ones with the inlet on the bottom should) but mine is an AC Delco (Part# 12355612) street performance pump rated at 110 GPH. Your'e right about eleminating the safety switch and fuel pressure regulator.The only other issue you have to consider is the return vent to the tank. It has to be open for the fuel pump to work because of the vacumn created. (Figured that one out the hard way)! I got a 3/8" brass "T" and ran the vent into the line from the tank! I'm sure I was doing something wrong on the safety switch, but this way seems a lot safer to me anyway. Some of the later model SBCs don't have the lobe to run a mechanical fuel pump, but I have one of the crate/service motors, and they all have that capability (at least the ZZ series thru a Fastburn 385). Good Luck..
Dan
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Labrat:
Can't help you with the JTR moounts, but I used the MSA mounts in an 83 ZX that worked well. They come with new Datsun mounts and the Chevy adapters as well as the transmission mount. The engine sets back as far as it can against the firewall. I had to trim one side of the hood latch plate on the firewall for the HEI distributor, and massage the oil pan slightly on my GM "ZZ" series crate where it was almost touched the power Rack & Pinion housing in 2 places. I'm using a medium high rise intake manifold with a Holley and a 3" K&N filter, and ended up putting a cowl induction type "scoop" on the hood. Believe you would be O.K. with a low rise intake manifold but I'd think about some method of getting cooler air into the intake since it is so close to the hood anyway. Sorry I can't help on the JTR, but this is one solution I've used recently that worked well. The JTR manual is an excellent source of info, but some of the specifics do not apply on the ZX. Couple of examples is you can use any standard starter as well as a manual fuel pump. Only thing I needed to do on the fuel pump inlet side was use a 3/8" nipple that had a gradual 90 degree bend. Good luck
Dan
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Miles:
Holley makes one too #12-810. It is energized by the solinoid as opposed the ignition like the Summit. I ended up going with a mechanical fuel pump, so I have a GM electric (#25115899 (Carter)) and the Holley safety switch if anyone needs it!
Dan
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Guys:
I remember a thread discussing Turbo Half Shafts in a V-8 application, and it was mentioned that all (I think) 2+2 Half Shafts R the same as the Turbos. Can anyone confirm or dispel that? Thanx
Dan
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Guys:
Thanks for the advice. Ended up finding a Holley switch (# 12-810) here locally that energized by the solenoid. It keeps the switch closed to the fuel pump unless the Oil pressure drops. Have several restarts on it without a problem so far. A relay would have been my next try..
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Guys:
I've fried 2 Summit Fuel Pump Safety switches on a SBC that I just got running in an 83ZX. They both worked O.K. until the car ran and was restarted. Thought the first one might have been defective, but I saw a tell-tale puff of smoke around the last one. (I'll put an in-line fuse in this time). I've talked to the Summit tech support guys on the correct hook up and was told it was O.K.:
A. terminal hooked up to the Batt side of the HEI distributor.
B. terminal hooked up to the tach side of the
HEI distributor.
C. termintal hooked up to the fuel pump.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm clue-less on this one!!! Anyone using the starter to energize the switch???
Thanx
Dan
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Lance:
Just got an 83ZX conversion running a couple of weeks ago, and am still working out tach calibration, power steering hook-up, vacumn fittings, and a few other minor problems. It's not a 2+2, but the conversion is essentially the same with the only noted exception I know of being the driveshaft length. The excellent info and advice on this forum gave me the confidence to take this project on, and I'm very happy with the result. Take a look at my post on 17 May by danc subject: ZX SBC using MSA mounts. I'd be happy to share any other info that might be helpful. Everyone will tell you to buy the Datsun Z V-8 Conversion Manual (WEB site www.JTRpublishing.com)and I agree 100%. There are significant differences between a "Z" and "ZX" conversion starting wit the JTR motor mounts set-back plates which can't be used since a ZX firewall if approximately 3" forward of a "Z". As you will see in my earlier post, I used the Motor Sports Auto mounts, and am happy with quality and overall fit, but a few guys (Sean from Oklahoma is one if I remember right) fabricated their own too. The philosophy and general info of the JTR manual is very well advised. One very important aspect of the converion is to carefully label the morass of old wiring as you remove it, and take solice in the fact that you won't need most of it! Some of my "buds" laughed at all the labels I used on the wires, but none of them were conveniently around when I quickly found the right ones to hook up! There are a few guys on the forum with ZX conversions that have been running for a while who could offer sage advice. Good luck!
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Anyone out there had any trouble with a Summit low oil pressure Fuel Pump Safety Switch (part#SUM-G1438)? I have an HEI Distributor and believe I have it hooked up correctly with:
Terminal A. Going to the Batt side
Terminal B. Going to the Tach side
Terminal C. Going to the Fuel pump
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BLKMGK
Thanx for your take! Not sure if the 2 valves we are talking about could be that different, but think I'll pick one up and give it a shot. Not sure if I will be going EFI later on or not, but I do want to keep that as an option. The direction I ended up going with a new fastburn 385 was not exactly what I had in mind when I started this whole thing. Started out as a rebuild of an old cop car 350, then a 330 H.P. crate, then a ZZ4 355 H.P. crate. Now I'm planning on the "Hot Cam" and 1.6 rockers... Blah Blah Blah. I'm sure everyone on this forum has a like "twist", or we wouldn't be here in the first place. At any rate thanks!
Catalytic Converter(s)
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Phantom:
I'm running a Fastburn 385 with dual 2 1/2 in and out Catalytic convertors to get through the E-Check here in Ohio. That's all I did, and my car passed all measurements on the very low side.
Dan