Fuzzydicerule
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Posts posted by Fuzzydicerule
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Hi guys, I've been lurking long enough, I figure its time to post up a build thread.
A bit of an intro. My name is Sam. I've been into cars for quite a while now, but until recently I have mostly been only interested in American cars. Being that my entire group of friends drives Japanese cars, I didn't really ever live that down. My first three cars were all Ford, a Foxbody, an LTD Station Wagon that I never got a chance to get running, and an 03 Cobra that I still have currently. Aside from that my dad and I got and proceeded to rebuild a 1969 Mach 1 starting when I graduated from Middle school, so most of my experience was with Fords. However, recently, my outlook has changed. My friend had an S30 that we continually worked on(but never seemed to get anywhere with, the project is all but abandoned) In fact I came close to buying an S30 in 2010 when i sold my 92 mustang, but I ended up getting the Cobra, and I kind of forgot about them, and pretty much settled down with my car combo. then in february, I bought a starion, and got it running, and then drove that until the beginning of may, when I sold it, and had to figure out how to spend the money, and then i came across this car.
It was listed on Craigslist for a measly 950 bucks, and the only known problem was a bad Ignition tumbler, and an auto that didn't like to shift. aside from some interesting carpeting tactics, missing seats, and some dents, it appeared to be well worth the 950. Best of all, it has close to ZERO rust. Theres a small hole under the battery, and some bubbling on one of the 1/4's and that is IT. The floors are a bit dented, but Ive fixed worse. after spending 200 dollars in towing fees (im an idiot, also, dont tell AAA that the car isnt registered to you.) i got the car home, and after fiddling with the igntion to get it to the on position, and spending a couple bucks on a fuel filter and some new hoses, it ran. My first drive in the car was without seats (being 6'6, i made out just fine sitting on the platform just before the toolboxes.) Then I started modding it. i grabbed a BUNCH of parts off my friend because he had absolutely 0 interest in finishing his Z. Being the generous type, i have them all for a very good price. parts include: Modern Motorsports 4 piston front brakes with larger rotors, Modern Motorsports Rear S13 Disk brake upgrade, Stainless steel brake lines, His torn to hell stock seats, Tokico Lowering springs, MSA 6-2-1 Header, MSA Twicepipes. Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, stock 4 speed, and his pedal box, as well as the Hood, fenders, access panels, and doors. We got to work and in a matter of about 3 days had pretty much all of it on the car, but then we found out that the wiring is complete crap. (It is spliced and hacked to ****, almost nothing worked.
Fast forward a few days. The same friend has an impulse buy and buys a *less than perfect* 240, another 72. After driving it, we realize its pretty damn bad, and i end up with the car, which i decided to use as a parts car for wiring and sell the rest to make up the payment, only to find that the wiring is as bad, if not WORSE that my own cars. This thing had almost all the power wires in the dash melt through the insulation, i figure it was about a stones throw from a major car fire. My plans out the window for an easy peasy wiring swap, im now in the process of making the two terrible harnesses one decent one.
That just about brings us to today, and should thoroughly explain the topic description.
I also forgot to mention, i picked up an L28ET, and im working on getting that to the point that i can drop in in place and get it running with a couple extra atmospheres.
Current Specs:
1972 240z
E88/E31 L24 with Dual Weber DGV's
MSA 6-2-1 with Twicepipes
Fidanza aluminum Flywheel
ACT 6 puck clutch
Stock 4 speed
Modern Motorsports 4 piston Front, S13 rear disk brakes
Tokico Lowering springs
And soon it will include
(* indicates parts i still need to acquire, if anyone has these, let me know)
F54/P90 L28ET (i am still looking for an oil pan and cooler, would prefer baffled such as the AZC peice.)
T3/T4 turbo of unknown build
14PSI internal Wastegate*
Supra 440's with a billet rail*
Mitsubishi Starion intercooler (i may stop being cheap and get a good one.)
Megasquirt2 V3.0 with relay board and EDIS (still need all the EDIS junk and the VR. as well as a dizzy block plate
Without further ado, here are some pics. I am notorious for just not taking pictures, and thusly, i dont have many, and most of these are from after i started getting parts on it.
This is when it was pulled in to do the suspension and brakes, still auto at this point
Good old dark interior shot.
Black fenders and the rewinds
The L28ET, this is when i got it, its currently down to S30 Status with all of the superfluous crap taken off.
These are from Sunday, i figured it needed to have some pics taken, this is with pretty much everything there that has been mentioned so far.
We got bored, and had some sharpies, the cars going to get painted eventually, so its whatever
This is what i always imagine when i see the empty bumper holes.
Got some sweet 280zx hood vents, an awesome hood scoop, custom Firechicken grafix, and a dude who is confused at it all.
the truest statement to ever be uttered
Good old L24
The interior currently, notice how there is nothing there..., im also mad that some idiot painted this car red, that lime green is awesome
Thats it for now, ill have her running soon and i will have something to do with that to update with.
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16x7 0 offset Konig Rewinds with 225/50ZR16 Dunlop Direzza Z1 Starspecs.
The tires are a bit tall, but i like the look, i just need to trim the front lower valence for clearance.
Fronts have a 5 Millimeter spacer to clear the 4 piston brake upgrade
Keep in mind, the car is an unfinished project.
Rear shot, the door isnt fully closed, but yes, its misaligned.
clearance between tire and valence, this is the drivers side, the passenger side actually touches...
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Im 20, My dad had a 260 and a 280 back in the 70s, 260 was wrecked and the 280 was traded in before i was born.
Never really noticed them until my friend got one, granted it was a pile, but it got me interested. I had planned to get one a year ago, but i ended up getting another car, and then after i bought and sold a Mitsubishi Starion in april, i found the car i currently have, Paid 950 bucks and then found out the wiring was ****. Luckily, the chassis is "relatively" clean, and i should be able to get it actually driveable in the next couple of days.
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Hey guys, my z has the modern motorsports rear disc brake conversion. How have those of you who also have ot, or a similar disc brake setup gotten your ebrake to work. It looks like ith they were mounted 180 degrees off the stock cable would work, but obviously not. Does anybody have any info or a wroteup on how they got theirs to work?
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Zul8tr you have a pm
78_datsun, let me know asap, i need it yesterday. Thanks
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The only thing i.need out of that is the oil pan and pick up.
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You and i are in the same boat man. I was planning on using a universal painless 12 circuit. I was not planning on using amy of the stock switches, but im sure you could wire it up with them if you had the patience
As far as one made for the car, ive been looking but have had very little luck finding anything..
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Hy guys, i am in need of a few parts for my z.
Most noteably, i need am oil pan and pickup for an l28 et engine, must have an undamaged sump, i dont care if it has dents and dings, but no crushed sumps please. No L28e pans, i need the turbo drainback.
I could use an oil cooler and lines, either a stock zxt unit or aftermarket, cheaper is better. I did see one in the pfs section but i am including this in the hopes of saving money on shipping.
I need a vr sensor, trigger wheel for an L series, edis 6, and a coil pack. I can get these at a junkyard, but if someone has a set for sale that would be cool.
Also if someone has a GOOD UNHACKED wiring harness for an S30, i could use that. I really only need the under dash and the front clip harness. Im planning on going painless but if i can get a good stocker i would prefer that.
Thats it for mow but im sure ill need something else.
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K, thanks, i completely forgot about the oil drain
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Hey guys, i have an L28 et im putting in my S30. aside from the obvious sump location difference, what are the main differences, if any, between a stock L24 Oil pan and a stock L28ET oil pan. The reason i ask is, A, the oil pan on my ET is dented, and i absolutely do not want to reuse it, and B, i am aware of the cornering starvation problem the L24 Pan.
Do the ET pans suffer the same fate under hard cornering as the early Midsump pans do?
Will the Rear sump ET Pan fit in an S30?
The reason i ask is if the Rear sump has the same oiling problems, i will just use the mid sump off of my L24, and if not, i will go try to find another L28/ ET Oil pan...
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oooohkay, i guess it would catch it before it can get out if you use it for the high current stuff though...
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As far as the shielded wire goes, is its ability to ground just the fact that it has two wires runjing through it? I assume the noise cancellation comes from the braided insulation at that point...
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Thanks for the tips.
Is there anywhere that sells the adapter plates for internal wastegates? like i said, i would use the one off the stock turbo, but the bolt pattern is just slightly different.
Im planning on running an intercooler off a mitsubishi starion (it was free...)
I am unsure of the use of shielded wiring, can you explain that to me, i get that its a wire that is groundable, but from what i can see its just 2 wires in a shared insulation.
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Hi guys, Ive got a 72 240. Long story short, my wiring is hacked to ****, so I'm going to take the time to rewire the car and put in an L28ET i got a couple weeks ago in the car.
I am planning on running the following
Engine;
Stock F54/P90 Long block out of a 1982 280ZXT
T3/T4 Turbo (.50 .63 AR)
Tial 50mm BOV
I will probably be investing in an External Wastegate of some sort. (exhaust housing is slightly different from the stock T3, and i wont be able to use the stock wastegate.)
Everything unneccesary will be removed (All that vacuum crap, emmissions, ETC
Will have a good 2.5 or 3 inch exhaust.
ECU;
MSII V3.0 ECU Kit
DIYAT Relay Board
Wiring bundle
DIYAT 36-1 Reluctor
WBO2
Recal. CTS, TPS, and IAT or GM Units
Ford VR Sensor
EDIS 6
Chrysler Coil pack
I want to note that i haven't purchased anything ECU related as of yet, im mostly trying to get a feel of what i may need.
Im planning on buying the basic unassembled MSIIv3.0, Relay board, and basic wiring kit, and a 36-1 reluctor from DIYautotune, as well as a Taurus VR, EDIS 6, and a Chrysler coil pack in order to get the car running. Aside from a Wideband o2 sensor, what other kinds of things will i need to get it working.
As Far as the Distributor, What are some options i have of deleting that. I would run the dizzy, but the one on the motor has a broken ear for the cap mount, and is unusable, and new Turbo dizzys are expensive. Does anyone know of a good way to delete it, but continue to have a functioning oil pump? or do i just have to whittle down the housing and deal with it?
Im planning on getting a WB02 for an AFR gauge, can i split the signal and use the same O2 sensor for both the gauge and the MS o2 sensor signal or do i need 2 sensors??
Sensors,Is it easier to recalibrate the existing Coolant, TPS, and IAT sensors on my L28, or would it be easier to just go ahead and retrofit GM sensors. What sensors off of what cars are popularly used for these cars, or is it just a kind of pick a car and go with it kind of thing.
Wiring, I dont have a wiring harness or ECU for the ZXT. Should i find one in the Junkyard when looking for the other bits and usurp it for the connectors, or should i just buy new pigtails?
Cheap JY mods. Everything engine related, sans the wastegate, i already have, and im looking to do this as inexpensively as possible, but i would also like to get the most power possible out of this thing. I hear that 240SX throttle bodies are a popular mod for the ET, is that just any 240 TB and do i really need to do anything to get that to work. Any other cheap mods i can look for at the JY?
Aside from that, is there anything else i should look into getting to be prepared for this? Im planning on getting the Main MS stuff in the next couple of days and start building it, then i will get the painless wiring harness a few weeks afterwards and start the arduous journey of undoing past owners misdeeds... Looking forward to this project though, mostly because i havent been able to really drive this damn car >_<
Thanks guys.
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Looking good man.
Out of curiosity, what part of san diego are you from?
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Hi guys, i bought a 1972 240z a couple of days ago. all of the current problems being set aside for a later day i have a quick question.
My neighbor came over and helped out while we were working on getting her started (clogged fuel filters are a *****, it now runs really well considering) and he mentioned he had a spare rad brand new in box for his old 79 280ZX that he got rid of years ago. long story short he gave it to me because it was just taking up space.
My question is this, i compared it to the one in the car, and it looked like it will work. i want to know definitively if it will, or if i will have clearance issues with the hood or something. As far as i know S30's and S130's have roughly the same hood profile, so id imagine i shouldnt have any problems, just wondering if anyone had tried before...
thanks guys.
1972 240z
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
The passenger door lock/handle/actuator was frozen (biggest ***** in the world to remove), the drivers door, im actually going to put the red one back on, because the regulator in the back one died the day after i put it in. and if you look in the first pic i posted, the passenger fender was creased and had a signifigant dent on the fender lip, and the drivers was bent up badly at the front portion of the rear of the thing
all in all, the black car was signifigantly straighter than this one, so why not use the good body panels.