Fuzzydicerule
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Posts posted by Fuzzydicerule
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Are you using a Ground control kit or one you pieced together?
Im interested to see How this rides and handles, im looking into do either the Illuminas or Bilstein P30's and either a GC kit or piecing my own together (leaning towards the latter on both)
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I suppose i can also post up a Precursor.
This is the Starion i bought and sold to get this Z. I bought it in February as an uncompleted Auto-Manual swap. Basically all it needed was a Transmission mount built. so i built a transmission mount, and started driving her, and sold it after i got tired of it burning oil on startup and getting 12mpg. It was a fun car though, i do kind of miss it. I Bought it for 800 bucks and sold it for 2600, and broke even, (would have made a couple bucks if i didnt buy some useless **** that i didnt need) so i cant really complain. All in all it was a fun car, but the Z just has so much more character, i cant wait to get her running
I bought it without the airdam, even though the PO said he would include it, he ended up folding the ends in and shipping it USPS, so i stickerbombed it to cover up the shittyness.
(some stupid **** i was talking about, i had 600 bucks in the exhaust alone, when i could have done it for a 1/4 of that, but i wasnt planning on selling it at the time)
The sale was kind of an impulse thing. One day i just kind of decided that i didnt want the car, and originally i was going to buy an LTD Wagon to soup up, but i found this S30 on CL for 900 and couldnt pass it up...
I consider myself lucky with that sale (unfortunately at the new owners expense) While i knew it had an oil burning issue, I didnt realize quite how bad it was. The alternator died about 4 days after i sold it, and the turbo seals blew about 2 weeks after that. I ended up giving the guy the stock T3 from my L28et(also needed a rebuild, figured it might be a decent upgrade from the 12A) and i got him a discount on the alternator (i work at an Oreillys)
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The L24 Ran pretty decent, but i was having more and more fuel issues (i believe it was a combo of the Carbs needing a rebuild, a bad Mechanical pump and lines that were slightly too large potentially causing cavitation of the fuel.) and near daily when i would drive it i would get this condition where i would lose all power completely, and the car would stall, and i would usually have to pull the pump off and prime it by hand to get it to run again. I figure if i had gotten a new mechanical pump or a good electric pump, and some new fuel lines, i would have been okay, but i also was annoyed with how slow the thing was (it barely beat out my buddies FB Rx7 with the 6 ports not functioning)
The L28 i just lucked by on CL one day, and a trip to LA and 6 bills later it was mine, but i agree they are becoming hard to find, im glad i got it when i did.
The nardi i paid just over 500 bucks for, I wanted a Nardi classic and a Quick release ever since my buddy got an AE86 with a quick release, i think theyre **** n lipstick, and well, my old steering wheel was really showing its age. It was a Hub/Quickrelease/Wheel kit from Weaksauceparts.com They are good guys and got it shipped fast, but unfortunately the part they have listed for 260 and 280z's (that i ordered because they are the same) was actually an S13 hub they assumed would fit(the problem was actually with NRG, not Wek Sos), and well, it doesnt, so a 45 dollar Grant Hub and adapter later its good to go. It puts the wheel a bit close to me, but that is perfect because it gives me room for my legs (Im 6'6", i need all the room i can get)
Typing this post is making me realize that i have too much money in this car, and i keep wanting to spend more... damnit
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Is it an even fluctuation in the brightness. The Alt puts out AC Current (Department of redundancy Department anybody) and if your Voltage regulator is going out, it could be that the diode that converts it to DC inside there is not working properly, or is bad. That would be my guess.
Quite honestly a 280ZX/ZXt alt swap is so easy and will give you such a better charging system, there is no reason not to.
Follow this link
http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/
Scroll about halfway down to alternator upgrade. It involves Jumping the Voltage Regulator wires into two pairs (the way i remebered it was the SOLID Wires[White and Yellow] and the Striped wires [black w/ white and White w/ Black]) and place a diode in the Lower Wire of the T connector for the alternator (this allows you to actually be able to shut the car off with the key, and can be had at Radio Shack)
BUT
Otherwise it is a complete bolt in alternator. (all of the plugs on the alternator are the same as the stocker) i believe you will just want to toss your stock pulley on to use the narrow V belt
I did this when i did my L28 swap. I havent had a chance to drive with the new alternator, but from just idling, it seems like everything was working much smoother, and it has been known to be a very beneficial swap.
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I didnt have a same sided intercooler, and IMHO it looks cleaner this way
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Nice man, looking good
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The canards? They probably wouldnt look good without a Chin spoiler or an air dam, with the normal G Valence they will likely stick out too much and be an eyesore.
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The canards? They probably wouldnt look good without a Chin spoiler or an air dam, with the normal G Valence they will likely stick out too much and be an eyesore.
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Is that shipped, I could have sworn I saw 195 shipped and 125 regular earlier in the thread, and I'm local to him
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Do you have a 280?
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That is quite literally the main reason I bought the car. No smog ftmfw
Destruck. Not much of a thread, but thanks. My swap started because I was tired of the l24's drivability issues so I said **** it and pulled it and started. I don't have **** for cash so I'm spending money as I need to. Where do you live? The car gets parked outside. ( the cobra and my dads 69 'Mach 1 get the garage, the z is in there for the time being cause the machs getting tuned). The z gets parked on the street but I live on a cul de sac so it's not likely a chance encounter unless you know someone who lives near me, and I never drove it after I painted it
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I flipped through It a couple times and didn't see it but I'll check again
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Thanks man. Hopefully should be running fairly soon and then I'm gonna drive the hell out of it
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That's right, I'm using my stock 240z fan. I forgot
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The way I have it mounted so the cap is about stock height. It hangs a good 1.5 to 2 inches below the support, and the petcock is another .75 or so added to that, but my inter cooler is Lower than the tank and both are above the bottom of my air dam. I can clear it with my jack so it's deinately higher than the x member as well
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How much was he charging for this scoop?
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Mine is composed of 2.5 inch Oreillys/pep boys exhaust tubing, a Tial 50mm BOV, and an Isuzu intercooler. Runs in between the steering shaft and the frame rail, under the motor, around the oil filter, up between the filter and the starter, through the Firewall into the V mounted IC, out past the IAT sensor, the BOV and into the TB
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My neighbor gave me a NOS 280zx radiator from his old car that he donated years ago, and for some reason kept the rad. I got away with drilling 6 holes (2 for the alignment hooks, and 4 for the bolt holes) in the firewall, and it works fine, i never had any fan clearance issues. your way is a bit cleaner though.
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Some more pics
Only real update is my Grant hub and Grant-Nardi adapter showed up (45 bucks shipped from Forever Sharp.com, Good deal IMHO)
The wheel is a bit close, But luckily, i am 6'6 and sit as far back as possible, so its not bad
and i just took a few shots of my Turbo plumbing to post in the intercooler thread in the Turbo section
Setup:
3 inch Spectre Air filter, 45* bend and 6 inch straight section before the turbo
T3/t4 Hybrid.
14psi internal wastegate
2.5 inch steel intercooler piping.
Isuzu NPR Intercooler, Mounted at a ~15* angle
GM IAT sensor in the final pipe before the TB
Tial 50mm BOV Just before the TB
Routing is as follows:
Compressor outlet pointing straight down, snakes between the steering shaft and the frame (about 1/2 an inch of clearance, should be plenty)
Has a couple bends to get it in between the Sump and Crossmember (i need to add a brace here, its very floppy)
Snakes around oil filter and comes into engine bay between the starter and filter, has a support on the passenger side Strut tower
Heads forward with some compound bends through the firewall, into the intercooler
More compound bends to get it from the intercooler to the throttle body, with the IAT and the BOV in the last pipe
The angles on the outlet of the NPR intercooler are a bit funky to work with, but the way i have it, it clears the hood, grille and air dam, and with a couple funky multi directional bends can get it through the stock upper holes in the firewall just fine.
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Phil, so many of those are true...
-When you keep a wheel Chock in your passenger floor board because your S13 Rear brakes dont have the right brackets for the E brake cables,
-When your Ebrake cable are still hooked up to the stock mounting location for safe keeping
-When you can place that rear wheel chock in front of the rear wheel From the drivers seat while still belted in, and behind it when you unbuckle
-When your coworker still asks you if your ebrake works yet, despite not having driven the car to work in months
-When you make fun of your friend's "sports cars" because their driver seat is more than 6 inches in front of the rear tire (Elitist Seating Position FTW)
-When your Rear Package Holders have seen more use than your glove box
-When you See a Very nice Restored First gen Camaro and when they pull up next to your in your Ratty, 3 colored Z with a Hood that has been hit with 10 different colors, Misfiting panels, and Dirty trim, You turn towards them to give a thumbs up and say "Nice car" only to be thrown off by the fact that they are doing the same.
-When you tear the entire car apart for a Turbo swap because you dont want to spend 40 bucks on a fuel pump
-When your friends dad follows you to your friends house (friend does not live with his parents, BTW) Just because he liked your car
_When your backfires are considered Much cooler looking than a car that is known for backfiring (Did a pull against my friends FB Rx7 [The Z with the L24 was faster, i found that funny, and his car is running perfectly] His car popped a tiny fireball out of one of the two tips, Mine Threw two alternating Large flames out of both pipes of my twice pipes. apperently, it was awesome"
-When you smile watching the Guy at the alignment shop try to take off with your Grabby clutch that you are used to (can apply to any car really)
-When Fishing for 3rd gear is your most commonly played sport (any Series 1 4spd Trans people know where im coming from on that one)
-When you are contemplating what to spend your next paycheck on, 2 days after getting paid
-Your Dash has a cap, ALWAYS
-Your 3 inch exhaust blows smoke rings (not kidding, ive had like 3 or 4 perfect rings, the smoke is lightly concerning, but its funny nonetheless)
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You know you own a datsun when your hands are never clean, even after using 3 applications of fast orange.
I cant even begin to describe how accurate this is
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Got an airdam and spoiler
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My Christmas presents to Me finally showed up
I got a Nardi Classic/NRG Quick Release Setup. Unfortunately The Part they had listed for "260/280Z's" is the same as for 240sx's... Sadly, they are not the same. I bought a Grant Hub with a nardi adapter today.
The Z Logo Mahogany Shift knob, I bought along with my Type 1 Airdam and BRE Ducktail from MSA.
I also got a Tach and GPS Speedo from Speedhut last month, and got those installed in the stock Bezels
Airdam installed (checking fitmet/photo op, its coming off the next time i work on the car as the drivers side fender is not bolted up. Why you may ask, scroll down a few pictures.
BRE Ducktail Installed. Both the airdam and this were sanded and painted with Duplicolor bumper coat. The airdam will get redone eventually as it has quite a few imperfections, but the spoiler looks damn good
This is why i had the Drivers side Headlight bucket and fender unbolted. As you may be able to see. The Toe board has been excavated to make room for the Floor mount pedals. Everything is tacked in at this point. Im going to fab up a few more braces and then get it finish welded and skinned. But the Pedals are Mountable and i got the Brake lines bent and mocked up today. Once the drivers side floor is done i can get it so it can stop on its own... The Double wide crossbar is a footrest for the slightly higher than stock pedals, i think im going to add another one or two to the front, it doesnt quite go far enough forward... Lastly, you can seen the seat frame i fabbed up, its to mount the Generic Racing seats you can find at any O'reillys (no pics sadly) but with them mounted about an inch off the floor (versus the stock 3 or so) the seat bottom is about the same as stock, and i have the ability to properly run harnesses.
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You know you own a DATSUN when you spend a month and a half completing a project, and are ready to start something that is critical to the operation of the vehicle, and then you decide something else menial and unneeded is required
Adjustable front control arm options
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Im thinking about using TTT's AE86 Adjustable LCA Kit when i do mine. It consists of their Block, Standard thread insert, and Reverse thread Heim joint (on the car adjustability) and are weld it. I used this kit to make some adjustable LCA's for my buddies 73 Celica Lift back and it worked phenominally, and the width of the LCA's on that seems similar to the ones on the Z. The only thing that needed modification was the Boxing plate, which needed to be trimmed to the right shape.
This Kit
http://technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=772