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DavyZ

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Posts posted by DavyZ

    Which engine to choose from

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Mark, the dual-plane intakes are more streetable not because of distribution per se, but because the air/fuel mixture has a higher velocity at lower rpms. Thus dual-plane intakes have better low end torque and off the line performance. A single-plane intake is better at high rpm.

     

    Our cars are relatively light weight for the torque, so is a dual-plane intake really necessary. I have one, and my motor is cammed and capable of only 0-5500 rpm max. This favors the dual-plane intake, period.

     

    My next motor will be a destroked 400sbc to 377 or even 350 ci. That will be a revvvver and I'm looking to spin upwards of 6500rpm. In that case, a single-plane intake would be best. Plus the cam selection will reflect the rpm range I will run in. Make sense?

     

    David

    johns car conversion vs JTR conversion

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Anthony, first off I would like to welcome you to the best forum on the web! If you have done a bit of reading using the "search" function, you've found that there are varying opinions on conversions. It sounds like you stumbled Lonehdrider's thread where Kevin, Owen, Richard, Len, Pete, and myself were "discussing" the JTR manual. The summation of that thread is that Mike Knell's manual does need an update (he knows it because I spoke with him last week) but it is still the best manual out there, and NONE of us were arguing over whether his conversion was the way to go or not. IT IS.

     

    Anthony, you ask "which is better?" Do you want the best handling? If you do, go JTR. Many of the guys, if not most of the guys in this forum have the JTR setup. Some of them have had both like Long (Dankinzle) prefer the JTR set up overall. Find his post, log on to his site and readup on why he likes the JTR version best. After researching independent of this site, I found the JTR set up to be the best so I went with it. The engine is set back closer to the firewall and is better for weight distribution and handling.

     

    As far as having only "general" information in the JTR manual, borrow one or take the chance and buy one before you make the $3000+ decision. Mike Knell wrote the manual and stated that you should have a Chevrolet service manual and a Datsun manual--logic dictates that for any conversion (including John's Cars for that matter) you should have all of the information you could need or would need to make it go smoothly.

     

    The JTR manual gives much information including other things like brake upgrades, etc. Does John's Cars do this? I don't think they do. The choice is yours and it's a good thing you posted--so you can get everyone's opinions on why they did what they did. You have my biased $.02 anyway!

     

    Good luck!

     

    David

     

    [ May 13, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

    MSD boxes

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    I have not heard too many bad things about MSD boxes or their distributors either.

     

    The GM HEI is a good distributor and has a coil inside. Their effective voltage is good up to about 4000rpm or so (depends on who you read and who you believe) and after that the voltage drops off considerably. What rpm range do you run? If you find yourself bumping into 6000rpm often, upgrade an HEI to a hotter coil and/or ignition unit. Would you believe MSD makes the best module for the HEI according to David Vizard? Accel also makes a unit that is pretty good and cheaper too. If you are really not satisfied with your MSD stuff email me...

     

    David

    Progress/Body work

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    I tell you that the VW Scirocco single wiper is way cheaper and more plentiful at the wrecking yard...

     

    Come to think of it, there are other cars with single wipers too. I'm thinking I saw an Alfa Romeo(?) with a single assembly. I believe it was Italian...

    I FOUND THE PROBLEM!!

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Way to go Scottie! I hope the fix isn't going to be too expensive for you. It's kinda like, "yeah, I found out that both my aluminum heads I bought are cracked, that would explain the problem." It pains me to hear stuff like that...all the $$$($!).

     

    All the best,

    David

    Glasspacks on L6?

    in 6 Cylinder Z Forums

    Posted

    I never used glasspacks before and I'm sold on the "turbo" mufflers anyway. Brand is not that big of a deal--I like Dynomax personally, but others like Flowmasters which are a different animal altogether. I've not been a fan of Supertrapps because tests have shown that they put out more noise per hp gained then "conventional" performance mufflers. They are tunable, which most others are not.

    Glasspacks on L6?

    in 6 Cylinder Z Forums

    Posted

    I agree on the Turbo muffler--they do really well on the Dastsuns in terms of sound.

     

    If you are really sold on glasspacks, MSA sells a pretty good DIY kit. Price is about $169. This is for a dual-exhaust system.

    Geting a stocker through,part two

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    It really bothers me that the car will still not pass emissions. There must be something really wrong somewhere to have that happen. This forum is very good at making emissions icon_rolleyes.gif but not very good at eliminating them??

     

    Sorry to bail on you, but I'm out of ideas. There has to be something very wrong somewhere, though, for that car not to pass. I'm very puzzled. Sorry, Bub. icon_sad.gif

     

    David

    Misfire(?) w/ temperature

    in 6 Cylinder Z Forums

    Posted

    Dan, if you've owned the Jacob's stuff since new, that would be my choice. I have never heard of Jacob's stuff being the cause of such a problem; that sounds too strange and I don't think the MSD 6AL will solve your problem; but, if you bought it used from a flea market, then who knows?

     

    I'm assuming the fuel pressure (3psi) is actually line pressure, not pump pressure? If it's line pressure, kicking it up a notch to 4psi or even 5psi.

     

    Your radiator and cooling system is definitely a problem. If the car can't get through traffic w/o heating up like that, then there's your menace. What radiator are you running? Are you using a fan shroud? What kind/brand of fan do you have? Shoot, when was the last time you flushed the system? Are you using straight coolant or a 50/50 mixture? Water cools better than coolant alone.

     

    I would not yank the Jacobs stuff yet, without addressing the cooliing system on your car FIRST.

     

    Hope this helps! icon_smile.gif

     

    David

    Voice warning.

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    The Z's have a sultry-sounding woman saying something like, "Your door is open..." "Your handbrake is engaged" "Your engine is falling apart" icon_smile.gif Stuff like that. To picture it, think of a very sultry voice when repeating the phrases. It was a hoot back in the late 70's and early 80's hearing this stuff. Kinda neat actually.

    question for scottie

    in 6 Cylinder Z Forums

    Posted

    Paul, don't lament the fact you might have paid too much for the Buick. I'm in the car business and I can tell you to throw the Kelly Blue Book out the window when it comes to a nice, rare car in exceptionally good condition. There is a specialty auto place down the street from me and they have a GN of similar vintage, but looks like crap even after detailing. They are asking $10K for the car!!! What's a little more for an unmolested car with much lower miles and in great shape? It's worth it. So, suck in your stomach, work with what you've got, and blow everyone away! No problem...

     

    David

     

    [ May 09, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

    Leaky rear end...

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    No, just lots & lots of teflon tape!

     

    OK, the consensus is:

     

    1) the drain plug at the bottom of the differential IS and expansion-type/pressure-type item and tightening too much will crack the aluminum. Well, the only thing that fits in that plug is a HUGE ratchet like a 1/2" torque wrench. I'm unsure what the torque spec is, if there even is one! I'll just be VERY careful while tightening.

     

    2) teflon tape should work well, per Terry, and give a good seal w/o leakage.

     

    Good! icon_smile.gif I'm going that route; Thanks guys!

    Engine swap?

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    Welcome to the forum! This topic has been answered numerous times in the past few days--go to the Chevy forum and look for a title post with "V8" and "ZX" and your questions will get answered. Use the "search" feature in the forum to look up things you want--it's a great resource and you'll learn a lot of the basics. That will get you started. Hope this helps!

     

    David

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